Silver C Project


 
I painted the rust on my bottom racks with POR 15 then black gloss paint. That way I won't have to worry about them for a long time.
 
Yep RE or POR15 are quite thick and will mimic the thicker coating Weber put on them. Definitely good way to to go
 
So don't take my advice on the knobs letting them set after painting then clear after 10 days for some reason the clear wrinkled and it was not for lack of letting them cure. If I remember the 1000 I did the knobs did not use clear and after a year and 6 mos they are fine.

What is interesting the plastic side panels on the frame were fine with the clear as well as the igniter button and the frame it goes in. I sprayed the the handle with the same color and used a VHT header satin clear tonight high heat and will look at it tomorrow but I did not see any wrinkling damn southern bug so there a black bug mark on the handle but looking good leave it for now but it bug's me so after a few months might respray it inside the house of course.

My plan is to wait a few days sand them down with some 400 and 600 then spray them with the paint again and leave them alone for a few months. Then I will hit one with the VHT to see if I get better results. It has to be something to do with the plastic knobs there were no problems with all the other pieces.
 
Well figured out what happened and hope this helps someone else out all the parts except for the knobs sitting for 10 days had no issues with the clear coat so what did I do different on the knobs.

I got the knobs pretty clean soaking in bleach so I decide to spray them with the same color I used on the 1000 still had a bit of the yellowing on them and the clear made it stand out but since I am anal waited 10 days sprayed them with the same color as the handle and side frame pieces. Paint was fine waited another 10 days sprayed them with clear and they wrinkled. It must have been some issue with the paint being sandwiched with the clear no other explanation for it all the other parts including the wheels were fine.

I really hope Lowes starts carrying the full line of Krylon paints really like their stuff.

I really am an idiot sometimes meant to say when I got them clean I then sprayed them with the clear which brought out the yellowing so then I sprayed them with the darker paint then clear which caused the issue. Sorry gang hope I cleared that up.
 
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I have really grown to like the Krylon products, too. Sorry for your mishap, but thank you for sharing your experience.
 
Goo Gone your friend was able to get all the paint off one of the knobs took a bit does not seem to have damaged the plastic soaking it in dawn rubbed it down with magic eraser looks like I will be good to go repainting it. Only doing one for now see if it works will only be painting it for now not sure I want to clear it as not really sure I got the clear off also but I think I did.
 
Larry are these the elusive continues valves I believe they are so looking at a nat gas grill silver and I have a silver b manifold which is propane so I can just swap it but if I found a silver c nat gas which had the side burner with the port could I drop in the valves from the B and just swap the orifices and be done?

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ignBlTs.mp4

ignBlTs.mp4


Sorry for the jittery pictures was trying to hold the valves with my left and and take a picture with my right. These are from a Silver B manifold which I cleaned the valves on this morning. I believe these are continuous also but they look different than the C's so Larry's observation might be correct and they used multiple suppliers but need to let Larry weigh in here.

I stripped a valve screw on the c manifold my own damn fault as maybe someone in one of these threads mentioned that those screws are not a #2 phillips bit they are a #1. Must have been lucky have lubed three manifolds always got them off a 2 one screw gave me trouble one time but I soaked it pb and it came out.

I used the #1 on the B this morning no issues on all of them and it was clear that bit was a better fit. I always remove the orifices and blow them out and clean inside a 7mm socket works well and they are easy to remove.
 
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Try laying them on something before taking the photo and also, don't try to get too close up.
 
Okay hopefully better pictures of the silver b valves my daughter disabled live photos on my i phone so now it takes still pictures which is what I need.

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Bruce said:
Much better photos Brian.
Click to expand...

Anything would be better then photos I posted, need Larry to give the approval. Got my eye on a silver b that is nat gas yes I could just swap the manifold but if I found a silver c for the side burner since it has the connection on the manifold and if I understand Larry the side burner is continuous on that piece so could simply take the valves out of this manifold slap them in the c take the orifices out of the b put those in and done.

I need the expert to chime in though. :)
 
Those are the continuous valves. They do have an "orifice" internally but as you can see the "spiral" section allows for much more precise fuel flow. As I have said before I have had good success going both ways with these valves in terms of fuel conversion. No issues taking them from LP to NG and NG to LP
 
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