Silver C Project


 
Bruce said:
Brian, on all my firebox repaints, I use butcher paper to line the inside and tape off the inside of the entire firebox. I put the tape on the INSIDE of the firebox up to the very edge, but not over, and all the way around. The very top edge winds up getting paint all the way around along with the outside.

Going off your photo above, the Silver edge that you have cleaned off would have gotten paint the way I do it. My tape would run behind the holes and rotisserie openings, but not into or over them.

I dont think I have pictures however. I hope that answers your question on how I do it.
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Thanks Bruce get what your saying completely good idea on the butcher block paper I got some paper 4' wide use to protect hardwood when painting the walls should do the job.
 
Yah, newspaper or other scrap paper would work as well. I just have a big roll of butcher paper laying around.

Here you can kind of tell what mine looks like after painting. This is an old photo that I didn't specifically take to show the paint, but you can get the idea.

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So another question for all I know Jeff said he sanded the firebox what grit assume wet dry. I am very fortunate I am going to be able to keep the texture in the lids and firebox do I rub it down with 600 then paint.
 
If I was going to leave the original paint/finish on the outside of the fire box, I would simply clean it up as best I could before painting. I would start with scrubbing with something non-abrasive like a green 3M pad and a good cleaner before using a solvent like Xylol before repainting. I don't think sanding would be the way to go...you will certainly lose some of the texture that way.

I would only use sand paper if you intend to strip some or all of the original finish.
 
Finally getting there a question for this one is a keeper so got the inside cleaned up enough. Do those of those especially Bruce paint the bottom of the firebox meaning the portion where the rails are or just call it a day an leave it alone?
 
I clean it and paint it, but I would think that you could get away without doing so. Likely buyers probably won't look that close and bottom line is that it doesn't help the overall presentation or functionality by not cleaning it up real good and even painting it.
 
Got a question for those with side burners must be a miracle the ignitor still works but how are you cleaning the burner up its got black on the top was thinking crud cutter and some 0000 steel wool but maybe there is a better idea.
 
I use Simple Green and 0000 steel whool. The dirt is normally mainly grease splatter and dust. Nothing which requires some heavy duty cleaning.
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Finally getting there a question for this one is a keeper so got the inside cleaned up enough. Do those of those especially Bruce paint the bottom of the firebox meaning the portion where the rails are or just call it a day an leave it alone?
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I also paint the whole fire box. It does not take that much longer.
 
Neat thread! The snow is FINALLY leaving, and I will start a re-furb on (2) of these units. I will need the side burner grate for 1 of them. Anyone know where to look to purchase a replacement?
 
KyleS said:
Neat thread! The snow is FINALLY leaving, and I will start a re-furb on (2) of these units. I will need the side burner grate for 1 of them. Anyone know where to look to purchase a replacement?
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If you're talking about that round porcelain (or is it ceramic?) ring then good luck, I'm not sure if they still sell those and if not then the only way to get it is to look for another donor grill or ask members on this forum if they have a spare they can give or sell to you.
 
Looking for some advice here see the worm holes on the lid 2 options I am thinking about 1 would be just rub that spot with acetone use my paint brush with some 900 degree caliper paint the other one is fill it with jb weld use a razor blade to get it flat then the caliper paint. Not enough jb weld or paint to kill anyone especially where it is located.

qwz8CkN.jpg
 
I would probably just paint over it. Get it as clean as you can and use some better than 900 degree paint. I would go with the Rustoleum 1200 degree Ultra High temp gloss black or even go with their automotive 2000 degree high temp paint. 900 is probably going to be OK, but I would want a bit more cushion in case of a flare up or something.
 
Bruce said:
I would probably just paint over it. Get it as clean as you can and use some better than 900 degree paint. I would go with the Rustoleum 1200 degree Ultra High temp gloss black or even go with their automotive 2000 degree high temp paint. 900 is probably going to be OK, but I would want a bit more cushion in case of a flare up or something.
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I have both Bruce the thing is the caliper paint is much thicker as it is enamel but I think I am going to do what you said if it does not hold up can always come back with the enamel.

It needs some protection either way.
 
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