Restoration Newbie - Genesis 2000


 
That little ring that falls (or rises) into the detentes to give you that little "click". I've done the same thing so don't feel badly. Recently I decided to do the ones on my 2000. Yep you guessed it. Even with as many of the damn things I have done over the year I got one backwards just like you did. $h*t happens as they say :D
Larry,
I don't think that this particular style of manifold valve has that little ring that you are referring to. From my experience on rehabbing older Genesis grills, there are two different styles of manifold valves. I do not know which is older, but the one that is pictured by the OP looks like the kind that does not have that ring that you are referencing. I will try and follow up with some pics for more clarity .
This type of valve has the detentes built in to the valve cover and the valve stem has a little pin that falls into each detente for the separate positions. Chris's How to video on valve lubrication has this type of valve for the demonstration.
 
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I've never seen one that did not have the ring unless it was the smooth continuous type valve. So seems there is another "interim" style.
 
I did not have a ring either. In order of disassembly I had: valve cover (held down by two screws), valve stem, spring and valve. This post shows all the parts. I did do all three valves at once, but I did document with tons of photos during disassembly. I don't want to majorly hijack the thread so here's a link to the post in my rehab thread showing pics the valves rather than taking up space posting them here:

https://tvwbb.com/threads/genesis-1000-redhead-restoration.80175/#post-885654

Larry, at near the end of my rehab thread I had a problem with the burners going out at medium and low settings and thinking it was 25 year old tank. Turns out it was my mistake. For future first-time rehabbers, VERY LITTLE of the high-temp grease on the valves goes a long way. The reason my burners were going out was the medium and low orifices became plugged with grease after a couple of uses. And I thought I had used very little grease!
 
I did not have a ring either. In order of disassembly I had: valve cover (held down by two screws), valve stem, spring and valve. This post shows all the parts. I did do all three valves at once, but I did document with tons of photos during disassembly. I don't want to majorly hijack the thread so here's a link to the post in my rehab thread showing pics the valves rather than taking up space posting them here:

https://tvwbb.com/threads/genesis-1000-redhead-restoration.80175/#post-885654

Larry, at near the end of my rehab thread I had a problem with the burners going out at medium and low settings and thinking it was 25 year old tank. Turns out it was my mistake. For future first-time rehabbers, VERY LITTLE of the high-temp grease on the valves goes a long way. The reason my burners were going out was the medium and low orifices became plugged with grease after a couple of uses. And I thought I had used very little grease!
Oh yeah. Definitely VERY little is needed or desirable. Not much more than maybe a size like the O here
 
I'm in the "testing for gas leaks" stage!

I still have the original hose and regulator. I did the soapy water test and there is a definite gas smell and continuous hissing noise coming from the regulator vent (see pic).

Is my regulator broken? Should I ditch this old hose and get a new one?

If so, I read that I'll need a conversion fitting. 3/8 flared male on one side, 1/4 pipe thread on the other side, seal with teflon tape - is that right?

regulator .jpg
 
IIRC 1/8" NPT on the side going into the manifold, but my brain is a little rattled these days so could be 1/4" Then 3/8" flare on the other
 
Not sure exactly what you are trying to replace. But, I would just buy a new hose with regulator. Cost about $10.

or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2MPZD1/?tag=tvwb-20

Those would fit your grill if you have the male 3/8" flare connector on the manifold. If not, this one should work. It has the 1/8" Male NPT.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180YJSF0/?tag=tvwb-20
 
Not sure exactly what you are trying to replace. But, I would just buy a new hose with regulator. Cost about $10.

or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2MPZD1/?tag=tvwb-20

Those would fit your grill if you have the male 3/8" flare connector on the manifold. If not, this one should work. It has the 1/8" Male NPT.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180YJSF0/?tag=tvwb-20
Thank you for these, Bruce!

Based on what I took off, I believe I should order this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180YJSF0/?tag=tvwb-20

Here's what I've got:

IMG-9407.jpgIMG-9408.jpg

I have some white thread seal tape - will this suffice, or will I need something more suited for propane?

IMG-9409.jpg
 
IIRC 1/8" NPT on the side going into the manifold, but my brain is a little rattled these days so could be 1/4" Then 3/8" flare on the other
Thanks, Larry! I didn't realize that I already had a conversion fitting on the grill. I took off the old hose/regulator and I'll be able to screw a new one right in! After sealing it with tape of course...
 
Sarah, not sure what you're describing. But first safety issues DO NOT REALLY DO NOT use that tape on the threads. For threads smaller than 1/2" NPT use only a good pipe dope rated for gas (LP or NG) use NOT tape of any kind. At 1/2" and above you can use tape but NOT the white stuff. Only the yellow stuff rated for gas use. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7YLLBL/?tag=tvwb-20 and with it you'll need a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" flare adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RW4IWE/?tag=tvwb-20
Use the pipe dope on the small 1/4" fitting. Use NOTHING on the flare. A simply light "snug" with a couple wrenches is all it needs to seal. No need to bare down on it
 
I may be totally confused here, but I think she can simply plumb the new hose directly she has linked above into the elbow adapter that currently on the manifold. Or, she can buy a 1/8" NPT mail to 3/8" Male Flare adapter, connect that to the elbow adapter and then buy a regular 3/8" flare hose/regulator to connect to that. There is no 1/4" connection involved in replacing a hose/adapter.

I agree with Larry on the pipe dope however. Use that instead of tape.

connection.jpg
 
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I thought she was going to try to find one of those regulators. You pay more for them if you find them. So much easier to use the adapter and than just find a standard 3/8" flare connector one. The ones like the originals are scarce and costly if you do find them
 
True Larry. But those darn 1/8" NPT to 3/8" flare connector adapters have gone up to $6 each. That makes the difference just about mute between the original 1/8" NPT connection hoses and the more standard 3/8" Flare connection hoses with the adapter. But at least if you have to make a change again later on, you can just get another regular 3/8" Flare hose.
 
True Larry. But those darn 1/8" NPT to 3/8" flare connector adapters have gone up to $6 each. That makes the difference just about mute between the original 1/8" NPT connection hoses and the more standard 3/8" Flare connection hoses with the adapter. But at least if you have to make a change again later on, you can just get another regular 3/8" Flare hose.
Exactly. When I change parts out on something that is older whenever I can I try to convert to something newer and more common. This way if you need one in a hurry it's WAY easier to find. I did that conversion on my dad's grill a while back. One day, I am at his house he says "I'd like you to make me some baby backs" I fire up the grill but no fire. Tank is nearly full, I try the spare tank still no bueano. So I disconnect the regulator at the manifold and sure as hell no gas coming through the hose. I run to the local store and in 10 minutes was able to grab a new regulator, get it back, hook it up and cookin ribs in a heartbeat. If I had wasted time looking for an OEM style regulator before he would not have had ribs that night. Plus that second regulator only cost half what a true Weber style one did.
 
Sarah, not sure what you're describing. But first safety issues DO NOT REALLY DO NOT use that tape on the threads. For threads smaller than 1/2" NPT use only a good pipe dope rated for gas (LP or NG) use NOT tape of any kind. At 1/2" and above you can use tape but NOT the white stuff. Only the yellow stuff rated for gas use. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7YLLBL/?tag=tvwb-20 and with it you'll need a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" flare adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RW4IWE/?tag=tvwb-20
Use the pipe dope on the small 1/4" fitting. Use NOTHING on the flare. A simply light "snug" with a couple wrenches is all it needs to seal. No need to bare down on it
I'm very glad I asked!!! Pipe dope it is!! I will leave my white tape for water seals... Thank you for your intervention, Larry!! I am learning A LOT with this project.

I already ordered the Hose and Regulator Kit with 1/8" NPT Male Thread that will fit in my existing elbow adapter (that @Bruce helpfully labeled above). So, I will install that, sealing it with pipe dope.

When my new hose/regulator goes to grill heaven in the future, I will consider modernizing with a 3/8" adapter so that I can more readily find a replacement.

Thank you both for your guidance!
 
When my new hose/regulator goes to grill heaven in the future
ROTFLMAO let's see if we all make it that long LOL And you're welcome. I don't want to see anyone blow themselves up well maybe some, like the ones who argue against doing it right LOL. They can blow up :D
 
A sneak peek of my grill and another propane question!

Here she is - looking sleek against the snowy backdrop! All that's left is finishing the wood. Then she'll be ready for a winter hibernation...

bb grill.jpg

I attached my new hose/regulator today - only problem is the the male threads are sticking out a bit:
1. Photo 1 - comparing size of male pipe thread with fitting on manifold
2. Photo 2 - interior of fitting
3. Photo 3 - pipe dope applied and view of threads sticking out

I tested for gas leaks and there were none, but I want to confirm if it's ok that the threads are sticking out a bit.

hose1.jpghose 2.jpg
hose3.jpg
 
Yep, the hole in the adapter is tapered and the male end on the hose is also tapered. It is only supposed to go in until it becomes tight. That is how it makes it's seal. If it goes all the way in, you have a problem. That yellow stuff is what you want to seal the connections. It is what I use.
 

 

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