Refurb assistance needed in NYC


 
NOOOO. That stuff isn't designed for high temps. it will bubble up the first time you heat up the grill and take the paint with it. If you clean the bare aluminum real well with a good solvent like Xylene, then just spray with Rustoleum Ultra High Heat paint or similar high heat paint. They are generally made to be sprayed on bare metal.
 
DrewLok said:
@ Jeff MA and Bruce
Option 2 from Grainger

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Stainless-Steel-Rod-SS-303-3-8-In-Dia-x-6-Ft-L-2EXD1/253266216772?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D1b86534b7818420a93199fd5a2d2bc0e%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D282911836736%26itm%3D253266216772&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A8b949608-8fc5-11e8-af5e-74dbd1802543%7Cparentrq%3Acfc189501640ad4a4804fdcafff37b4b%7Ciid%3A1

Can't custom order the size but shipping is only $4.99
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Drew, thanks for posting this. I'm not sure how they are shipping this to anywhere in the lower 48 for $5, but mine arrived today. Using the HF angle grinder, I made a new axle for my SSP. The old axle was extremely rusty.

43057455224_e36906dda9_b.jpg


I have enough left over to make a new axle for my ongoing Genesis 2 project as well.
 
JKim,
Looks much better than the stock axle. I placed an order for the Grainger 6' 316 SS axle as I can make 3 axles with it.

Jeff
 
Sprayed the cook box and end caps yesterday.
I'm not liking the finished look on the end caps. Whatever was left from sanding is showing through the glossy black paint.
Can you use sandpaper to remove the remnants of the old finish or is the grinder with the cup wire brush a better course of action?

MNg1xNN.jpg
 
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Weird the cook box did not do that and only the end caps. Did you get the cook box clear of the stuff compared to the end caps?
I am in the process of cleaning my end caps and box so I was wondering if I needed to knock everything off or not. It looks like my answer is yes. :|
 
Yes, if they are as far gone as the photo above, you should take them down to bare metal before repainting. Otherwise you risk premature peeling. Not to mention that it doesn't look right.
 
@ Bruce
Sanded the end caps down to bare metal. Should have done that from the beginning.
Since the rain started again spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning up the hood and control panel.
Has anyone finished the end caps in matt vs gloss?

SPauOnr.jpg

tlYH6a0.jpg
 
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GOod job on the end caps so far. On the hood, I would work on the 4 corners and along the bottom back edge as those spots will show once you have the end caps back on.
 
Looking good so far. I will be looking forward to seeing them on the lid and the lid on the firebox.
 
Drew: Make sure you use some of the High heat paint on the frame where the firebox mounts to the top part of the frame. You can do the whole frame with that stuff or use some regular spray paint on the rest.
 
Jeff MA said:
Dave,
Put me in for a couple.

Jeff
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JKim in MA said:
I'd take at least 2.
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DrewLok said:
Put me in for one.
Thanks DaveW
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Greg M said:
Dave I would buy a couple too.
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Jon Tofte said:
Dave,

I, too, understood that you could no longer get them from Weber. Please put me in for as many as 10 if that is possible. If not, whatever you can apportion my way.

Before I go through with making my own, what is the future availability and price? I was just trying to make new decals for everyone to use, but if you can still get Weber ones at a fair price there isn't any sense in that. Let me (and all of us) know when you can. THANKS!!!

Jon
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Guys,

My apologies for the long delay in replying. They are $5 each from Weber, plus shipping of course. I went ahead and ordered 10 of them since I was ordering other stuff anyways. I'm guessing they would be safe being sent in a regular envelope with an index card. I'll let them go for $5 each shipped.
 
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