Refurb assistance needed in NYC


 
@ Brian B
I sanded top and back side with 180 grit first Then again with 220 grit before applying first coat of stain.
Sanding was done by a sanding block and not an orbital machine.
The top side does appear lighter then the rough side with two coats of stain

I’m not in a rush. So you recommend sanding both sides down with 320 grit before staining 2 coats.
When sanding to remove the two coats of stain should it look like it’s natural unfinished state?
Also is it ok to sand using the sanding block?
I have 400 grit available, let me try one piece with that.
 
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So here is what I would do no need for 400 take a test piece hit it with the 180 then hit it with the 220 so it matches what you have done one coat of stain. Then hit that piece with 320 lightly on the test piece do another coat of stain if you are good and make sure you use a tack rag to get all the dust off then you should get the look you want. What I am trying to do here is save you the time of doing all the boards over but until you do the test piece your not going to know what the end result would be.

2 coats of Spar IMO is not enough what are you using for the spar? I will be doing a project soon well in the next 3 months after 2 coats of spar rub it down with 600 wet/dry sandpaper keep it wet I use a bucket of water to keep dipping the sand paper in lightly when you rub it down. Then hit it again with more spar I use a foam brush cheap at HF to apply the spar but its a thin coat so keep that in mind. Toss the foam brushes you cannot reuse them I think the 1 1/2 are like a buck you should be able to use them if your re-coating in an hour or so wrap the foam brush in plastic wrap will keep it pliable. Follow the instructions on the re-coat time 2 hours not a big deal the brush wrapped in plastic out of the sun will last for a few hours. You can also use a cheap China Bristle brush at HF what you cannot use is a brush for latex.
 
@ Brian B
Thank you for providing the information. Never thought staining wood would be so involved.

I don't have any extra pieces so I will test with one existing piece and 320 grit.
If the final outcome is a lighter two coat stain then the extra work will be worth it.

Will be using Cabots Spar Varnish in Satin.
Based upon your recommendation, 2 coats of spar varnish before sanding?
 
DrewLok said:
@ Brian B
Thank you for providing the information. Never thought staining wood would be so involved.

I don't have any extra pieces so I will test with one existing piece and 320 grit.
If the final outcome is a lighter two coat stain then the extra work will be worth it.

Will be using Cabots Spar Varnish in Satin.
Based upon your recommendation, 2 coats of spar varnish before sanding?
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Drew its not so involved picking a stain color is hard always ends up a bit darker than what they show on the can. If your happy with it now with the one coat you can just go to the spar. For example my hardwoods on the first floor were originally done in Early American, when we did the 2nd floor over last year with new carpet my wife wanted hardwood on the hallway which we did. My floor guy is really good since the first floor had faded he suggested golden oak for the 2nd floor to blend in better which it did as you can see the railings and the trim pieces from the first floor.

If your really anal which I can be you sand it in between each coat of spar but for our purposes its probably over kill, do 2 coats then hit it with the wet/dry paper and one more should be enough. Its a lot of work doing the wood so you sure don't want to be doing it again.

If you read the Cabot instructions they recommend 2-4 coats and sanding between each one they also recommend sanding the stained wood before applying the first coat. Really it comes down to how perfect do you want them to be.

https://www.cabotstain.com/pdf/Spar_Varnish.pdf

If you have not bought the cabot yet this is something I had found awhile back not used it yet and its stupid expensive but its got pretty good reviews. Its a marine varnish a little cheaper on Amazon but still pricey.
https://www.rockler.com/man-o-war-s...MIgNWe383O3QIVi7bACh2D7gUpEAAYASAAEgJb6PD_BwE
 
@ Brian B

Knowing myself I will not let the darkness of the stain go. I rather get the stain color correct, seal with the spar varnish and not have to wonder what if...

I will report back once I’m able to sand and restain the first piece.

Interesting fact about the Man o’war spar marine varnish, it’s EPA banned in New York.
 
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DrewLok said:
@ Brian B

Knowing myself I will not let the darkness of the stain go. I rather get the stain color correct, seal with the spar varnish and not have to wonder what if...

I will report back once I’m able to sand and restain the first piece.

Interesting fact about the Man o’war spar marine varnish, it’s EPA banned in New York.
Click to expand...

Really I use to live in Boston here in GA nothing ever seems to get banned. Not sure thats good or not. :)
 
I dont think you will find a new one for sale anywhere. Since they stopped using them on grills nearly 20 years ago, a used one likely will be in pretty rough shape. The only way to get a new (decent one) is to fabricate one. I did so on my Genny 1000 and while it isn't perfect, it is close to original. I have seen them replaced with solid wood bars without the slots cut into it which would be pretty easy to fabricate.

koeRSIa.jpg
 
DrewLok said:
I'm looking for an original wood handle to complete this project.
Does anyone have one to spare?
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Bruce did a really nice job on his, here is an example of something I did. Used a thicker piece of cedar had to mill it down in the ends where it goes into the handle ends not real hard to do. I think it was true 3/4 stock got it from Lowes. I used a table saw to put 2 grooves in it for some character I don't think I went down more than an 1/8 inch maybe a 1/4 would have to take a measurement.

https://i.imgur.com/W6N9gnv.jpg

I think there is someone on WKC who makes these not sure what they charge.
 
Yep, my handle was from thicker stock as well. I milled down the ends to fit into the end cap slots like you did as well. If I make any more of my own handles for Genesis 10000-5000 grills, I will probably no do the slots again. I will probably just do a plain solid handle or something like what Brian did. What would be really cool is to etch in a Weber logo somehow. I am sure someone on this list could come up with something like that. I think it was Jon that had an artist friend draw a Weber Logo on a kettle handle and it looked superb.

I am sure there are some pretty fancy machines that can cut out lettering in wood like a CNC machine does in metal.
 
By the way that groove idea I did on my handle was not my idea just want to give credit where it was due. I got this on the WKC gasser section there was a guy who did a beautiful restore there forget what model it was but that is what he did. A plunge router and what Bruce did which was pretty amazing to me is not in my area of expertise. :)
 
Just looked over the handle and I think it’s salvageable.
On the backside of the handle there are large areas of black mildew or mold?
Is there a way to remove the black spots before staining?
 
Drew, report your results back I have one I need to do over in a few months I can salvage it but same problems with the mildew so going to use that method described in the thread.
 
I just gathered up my grill parts and stored them today and realized I actually have a wood handle for a Genny 1000. It is weathered but pretty straight and solid. If someone wants it, I would be willing to send it to you for the cost of postage.
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Drew, report your results back I have one I need to do over in a few months I can salvage it but same problems with the mildew so going to use that method described in the thread.
Click to expand...

I started out by sanding the handle and the black spots are gone.
Intended to take before and after pictures but remembered only after I was done.

Now on to staining.
 
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