Refinishing Weber Emblem


 
I’ll throw this reminder out there...if you’re refinishing emblems / badges, a 5mm die and some flanged stainless nuts are a great option for a mechanical connection to reattach them when done. A $20 investment will get you everything you need to do 25 emblems before having to restock on flange nuts. Yes, RTV works “fine” or is “good enough” and I won’t begrudge that choice, particularly on a basic flip, a one-time project, or a daily grinder grill. On a higher end project though, I like to use the good vs great mentality...great will go beyond what good is willing to do.
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TomRc said:
I’ll throw this reminder out there...if you’re refinishing emblems / badges, a 5mm die and some flanged stainless nuts are a great option for a mechanical connection to reattach them when done. A $20 investment will get you everything you need to do 25 emblems before having to restock on flange nuts. Yes, RTV works “fine” or is “good enough” and I won’t begrudge that choice, particularly on a basic flip, a one-time project, or a daily grinder grill. On a higher end project though, I like to use the good vs great mentality...great will go beyond what good is willing to do.
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What is the size of the tap and nuts you are using there? My reading glasses are missing it looks like M5?
 
TomRc said:
I’ll throw this reminder out there...if you’re refinishing emblems / badges, a 5mm die and some flanged stainless nuts are a great option for a mechanical connection to reattach them when done. A $20 investment will get you everything you need to do 25 emblems before having to restock on flange nuts. Yes, RTV works “fine” or is “good enough” and I won’t begrudge that choice, particularly on a basic flip, a one-time project, or a daily grinder grill. On a higher end project though, I like to use the good vs great mentality...great will go beyond what good is willing to do.
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I concur with TomRc. I have been using the 5mm die for my Weber emblems on my recent grills with the appropriate flange nut and it works perfectly. Watched some YouTube videos on how to use a die to cut threads on the aluminum posts on the emblem, it was easier than I thought. Bought the appropriate SS 5mm nut and now I will never go back to using the RTV.
 
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TomRc said:
I’ll throw this reminder out there...if you’re refinishing emblems / badges, a 5mm die and some flanged stainless nuts are a great option for a mechanical connection to reattach them when done. A $20 investment will get you everything you need to do 25 emblems before having to restock on flange nuts. Yes, RTV works “fine” or is “good enough” and I won’t begrudge that choice, particularly on a basic flip, a one-time project, or a daily grinder grill. On a higher end project though, I like to use the good vs great mentality...great will go beyond what good is willing to do.
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Looks great! Could you post a link where to purchase?
 
Thanks DanHoo! I was glad to see the bolts are stainless. Can you also tell us where you bought the tool?
 
Jon, that is just a die. You usually buy a whole set of them with dies for a wide range of threads and sized bolts. You can probably buy individual dies as well, but you will still need the handle. I am willing to bet that you can get them at HF for a decent price. As expected, they are probably not as good as industrial sets, but will be way more than you need for the aluminum pins on a Weber badge as they are typically used on steel bolts.
 
I'm probably the only dissenter here, and I'm not trying to change anyone's opinion, just offering a different point of view. 1) Threaded fasteners are fine for secure retention but aluminum or pot metal are not really good candidates for holding threads. 2) Two threaded fasteners is overkill for such a lightweight item. 3) A little bit of baked on crud a few years down the road can cause the ss nuts to gall and bind if you want to remove the badge for refinishing and if that happens there will be a big problem in taking it apart. Is there a problem with the badge falling off or becoming loose with silicone adhesive, or is this a solution looking for a problem? What exactly is wrong with using a silicone adhesive?
 
Ed, I mirror your thoughts, but to each his own. Bottom line is, if the posts wind up breaking off, you still have the silicone option. Either that, or a couple new push nuts for $.10 each will work as well.
 
I'm not trying to change the world here, but consider the following: The post to the left is full diameter, and the post diameter after threading (minor diameter) is reduced quite a bit after threading. Also, the bottom of the V-groove is a "stress riser" where it's going to break if the force required to disassemble is great enough.


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Bruce said:
Bottom line is, if the posts wind up breaking off, you still have the silicone option.
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Maybe the silicone option should be the go-to and if that fails, then consider the threaded option? I am more concerned about gluing it too well than anything else.
 
Ed P said:
I'm not trying to change the world here, but consider the following: The post to the left is full diameter, and the post diameter after threading (minor diameter) is reduced quite a bit after threading. Also, the bottom of the V-groove is a "stress riser" where it's going to break if the force required to disassemble is great enough.


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This level of detail is amazing. Fastenerdata got into my brain and explained everything I was wondering. Thanks Ed!
 
I can see the positives, but I think I will probably stick with using replacement fasteners.

I bought some of the high heat silicone for a different project; maybe I will try that once and see what I think. Some of you here seem to swear by it.
 
I just find the silicone quick and convenient. One benefit is that it allows you to mount a badge that does not match the lid (mounting posts don't match the lid holes. I did that on my SS Platinum Skyline. I kept the platinum badge and put it on the skyline lid. Not sure if I really like it or not though. I did have to grind off the posts to get it to work. Then silicone and I could put it anywhere I wanted.

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