Why do you object to the larger Torx sizes?
By the way, the ones I don't like are the inverse versions, where the screw head has a star protruding out, and you need the matching inward-facing star socket.
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- Thread starter Scott Smith
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By the way, the ones I don't like are the inverse versions, where the screw head has a star protruding out, and you need the matching inward-facing star socket.
Timothy F. Lewis
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I agree, I have a violin bow maker that has been using the metric system forever, it’s easier, it really is. A millimeter is a penny, a meter is 10 bucks.
I totally agree with the logic behind it, and now that we are pretty much the last holdouts of the “inch” system, we should join the global infrastructure on that. What Larry says is also true, car parts are not made in Detroit anymore or Flint or Lansing the parts are merely assembled here for the most part. Sometimes, change can be good.
DanHoo
TVWBB Olympian
Main reason is the Torx drivers are really long compared to a socket and cannot take high torque and when a Torx bolt is semi seized it trashes the driver.
To remove some stuck Torx bolts I've had to grind the edge of the bolt and use an open end wrench.
Timothy F. Lewis
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
So, what about Roberson screws? Basically they are a Canadian product but, I kind of like the concept. More of a slightly tapered almost square drive. Full disclosure, I’ve only ever seen them in Canadian boatbuilder videos but, they seem like a good design, this is simply a curiosity question for me.
E-Torx, aka external involute spline. The only 2 eTorx fasteners on my '94 Jeep XJ were the top 2 fasteners from the bell housing to the engine block, and if you'd never have seen those prior to your clutch swap, many profanities would ensue. I'll also point out that I did replace those 2 fasteners with metric hex head screws of the proper hardness.
Involute spline fasteners work much better for automated mechanical tooling, at least, that's what I've always been told by the mechanical enginerds.
I keep SAE and metric segregated, but close at hand.
Dan Leighton
TVWBB Pro
I had a 1980 Pontiac Phoenix (X-Car like the Chevy Citation) which was about 50% metric when Detroit was phasing in Metric. Fortunately, I had a 1973 Capri too which was metric so I was already partially up to speed on tools. The 1976 Triumph TR-7 I had was all SAE since it was built in the UK. Fun car except for electrical fires and head gasket issues about every 3K miles.
Kevin L (NKY)
TVWBB Diamond Member
I really do not see this as a issue. Having to seperate sets of tools is not a big deal. After you work with the two for a while you are able to see the differences easily.
Meteric on wrench and socket sizes is very nice, but after working in structures for 30 plus years it is alittle a bit of change to get use to using a 1/8th drill verses a 3.2 mm ,but adaptable.
It was the same with British Standard tools on my Triumph TR4A.
Meteric on wrench and socket sizes is very nice, but after working in structures for 30 plus years it is alittle a bit of change to get use to using a 1/8th drill verses a 3.2 mm ,but adaptable.
It was the same with British Standard tools on my Triumph TR4A.
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
My buddy uses it on his old Triumph BonnevilleTime to incite to riot.....
Whitworth, anyone?
TonyUK
TVWBB Guru
I had the same issue with my left-handed screwdrivers. I ended up storing them next to the tins of striped paint.
TonyUK
TVWBB Guru
Time to incite to riot.....
Whitworth, anyone?
Now that takes me back to the old Petter diesels I worked on. Damn near bomb-proof. Once it fired up it would chug along, all day long, happy as a pig in ****! Happy days.
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TonyUK
TVWBB Guru
I had an old MG Midget, same issues...oh and that pool of oil on the driveway just under the differential. I never could fix that problem.
Eventually swapped out the diff.....still never cured it.
Edit: A friend of mine had an old Norton 750 Commando. He used to park it over an oil pan in the garage. He'd get concerned if there was no oil lying in the pan the next day, and check the oil level. Bloody dangerous as it spewed oil over the back wheel until the crank case got up to temp and the gasket decided to seal. Fun times.
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Dan Leighton
TVWBB Pro
Don't forget the Stromberg carburetors which would have the fluid mysteriously disappear out of the dashpot. Fun synching them up!I had an old MG Midget, same issues...oh and that pool of oil on the driveway just under the differential. I never could fix that problem.
Eventually swapped out the diff.....still never cured it.
Edit: A friend of mine had an old Norton 750 Commando. He used to park it over an oil pan in the garage. He'd get concerned if there was no oil lying in the pan the next day, and check the oil level. Bloody dangerous as it spewed oil over the back wheel until the crank case got up to temp and the gasket decided to seal. Fun times.
But not exactly.
Some products are sold in standard units here in the USA, but they are actually close metric "equivalents." Perfect examples include manufactured wood products like plywood and particle board. They are sold as "1/2 inch" and "3/4 inch", but are 12 mm and 18 mm respectively. I assume the boards are imported.
To compensate, stores sell undersize router bits in sizes like 31/64 inch and 23/32 inch. They correspond to boards sold as 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch respectively. Search for "undersize router bit" or "undersize plywood router bit".
Of course, a "2x4" is not 2 inches by 4 inches, but that's different.
TonyUK
TVWBB Guru
I had twin SU's. An absolute nightmare to set up! "Pinking" was always an issue. But eventually managed to sort it with a complete overhaul of both carbs. Those dashpots were a mystery!! Where did all the fluid go to?
Richard in NS
TVWBB Wizard
Tim, as a Canadian, they are hands down better than a Philips. (Sorry) If I buy a product with Philips screws included, I will switch them for Robertson if I have the right size.
Kevin L (NKY)
TVWBB Diamond Member
Mistake I forgot to say my brothers 1965 TR4A
Steve Hoch
TVWBB Platinum Member
I saw a video on YouTube from the "History Guy" that talked about the evolution of screws. The Robertson screw seemed like a much better option than Phillips head screws but never took off here. I hate Phillips screws, they strip far too easy
Kevin L (NKY)
TVWBB Diamond Member
The twin SUs are a bit of a challenge, but with a couple tools and patients.
#1 tool is a air flow balance using a bubble in a metered tube to show the level of air flow at each carb. Then you will adjust ,choke if needed. Idle richness as with most carbs. A smooth flow of vacume is needed so good vacume lines and carb gaskets to reduce or stop leaks. And a good U Tube video now days as it has been 55 years since I touched one.