Q lid repaint


 

Kyle in Woodstock

TVWBB Guru
Paint update of sorts...

In the regular gas grill section I posted about a Silver A I restored in which I first painted with high-heat black and let it cure for a full week. I was not at all happy with the remnants of the original texturing that survived all my wire brushing. Rather than start over I decided to try my idea and paint over with regular temperature texture paint. (I have never seen any high heat texture paint.) After letting that cure for a few days I then painted again with high heat black letting that cure for yet another week.

When I did over an hour of burn-off including a half hour or more at full power (+600 degrees) I did not notice any bubbling or other issues. Not sure this would work on a firebox or a more powerful grill. It DOES give me hope that I could do something similar on Q grills with high heat primer first, then all the colorful engine paints I bought, and finally a coast of high heat clear.

I will update whenever I can finally do a Q in this manner. I will also test it thoroughly.

Jon, how's the textured paint holding up?
 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
When you guys are angle grinding the old paint off the Q lids....any tips on how to get in the corners and weird angle spots? I've got one basically to the aluminum except for a few of those hard to get areas. Hoping you guys had some tricks for that.
I simply push harder and force the wire cup brush into the area as much as possible, but there will always be some that you can't get. If it is carbon under the lid, not a big deal. If it is paint on the outside, then I just do as good as I can and make sure that any paint left over is smooth and not flaking. Then, when you paint over it, you won't even be able to tell there was any left over paint. Those areas should be very small any ways.
 

Jon Tofte

TVWBB Olympian
Jon, how's the textured paint holding up?

I sold that grill so I can’t say for sure. I did, however, use 500 degree engine paint in a Q I did for my sister. I primed with ultra high heat primer and covered with ultra high heat caliper clear. Similar concept and it has worked out so far.
 

Kyle in Woodstock

TVWBB Guru
First time using the Rustoleum Ultra High Heat bbq paint. Semi Gloss black. It felt thinner than the VHT paint I’ve been using. Also, it doesn’t seem to produce any sort of texture to the surface like the VHT does.
It still looks ok. Going to give this lid to a relative, swap it out with their stock grey lid. D34F143C-C8A7-4999-90DD-F3D1829F491A.jpeg
 

ChadRex

TVWBB Fan
I have cleaned, wire brushed the flaking finish and sanded all over the lids so I could paint with high temp engine enamel. I have done a Q200 for a work colleague and the Q220 for me. The lids did have a bit of pitting, but they look 100 times better than what they did!
Here is mine all finished :)

48071915917_56f0c41be4_k.jpg
[/url]C0AC4166-D210-4786-821E-A6F74BC6D94B by Liz Quentin, on Flickr[/IMG]
If you don't mind sharing What grit sand paper did you use?
You washed the lid, rinsed, sanded and rinsed again, then wiped down with Acetone..
Did you cover the inside of the lid before painting?

I used VHT Anondized Color coat SP451 =anodized blue on my Smokey Joe mini WSM.
 
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Kyle in Woodstock

TVWBB Guru
I use a pretty fine one if you are trying to paint over the factory finish of the Q, something like a 220 grit. You don't have to press too hard, just need to scuff it up a little to give the paint something stick too.

You painted a Smokey Joe?! Can you post a picture?
 

ChadRex

TVWBB Fan
I use a pretty fine one if you are trying to paint over the factory finish of the Q, something like a 220 grit. You don't have to press too hard, just need to scuff it up a little to give the paint something stick too.

You painted a Smokey Joe?! Can you post a picture?
Thanks for the response. I built a smokey Joe mini WSM I painted the central smoker part ( a stainless steel roasting pot) with VHT high heat, all I did with that was rough up the surface a bit, tack cloth the sand dust off and spary 2-3 coats o the VHT high heat paint. the surface wasnt the best paint job, a little uneven in some areas.

chadrexs-wsm-mini detailed build post with links to supply list ( photos originally hosted on Photobucket don't seem to show up
more photos on different forum

In my case for my new Weber Q,2200, you are suggesting I probably don't need a primer? Just rough up the surface with a light sanding? ( some oen esle suggested 150grit, you mention 220. How long should I wait in between coats? Should I use a high heat clear coat ? I think after al the coats of paint dry I should ut the lid on the grill and fire up the grill at 200-300 for about an hour to cure. Does this sound correct?

I appreciate your response, this forum is full of awesome members.
 

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A Lee

TVWBB Fan
Has anyone tried aircraft stripper for removing the factory coating? I think it'll be easier than trying to sand/grind it off.
 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Nope, never tried that. Didn't even know it was a thing. If you try it, let us know how it goes.
 

A Lee

TVWBB Fan
Nope, never tried that. Didn't even know it was a thing. If you try it, let us know how it goes.

I won't be trying on a grill any time soon. My green q1200 is less than a year old.

I've used it in the past to strip the coating from an amplifier. It worked well. Spray it on, wait a little while, then come back and hose off the peeling paint. I used the spray on kind which was pretty expensive. I think the brush on type is cheaper
 

Jon Tofte

TVWBB Olympian
Rustoleum does make a light tan high heat paint that is close to the Weber “titanium.”

My vote is for caliper red!
 

RichardC

New member
Hi all,

Just on prepping again.

My q1200 has scratches and flaking to the bare metal and pitting. I've sanded out the pitting but original paint in the vicinity is kind of flakey.

Qn: do I need to sand to surrounding areas to bare metal too and feather up to the non-damaged original paint OR do I need to go bare metal throughout to get a smooth paint job?

Cheers
 

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Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Yep, IMO, you definitely need to go down to bare metal. You might want to consider having it sand blasted if you can find a shop in your area. It likely won't cost all that much. You could have the inside done as well. If you wanted to go all out, even the bottom portion of the grill as well.
 

 

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