Need Help... Does anyone know the year of this Genesis

[Jon Tofte]

I was able to pick up a spare grill which is in better conditions than mine but is ng. I have took my lp apart and began to sand. Should I paint the firebox with high temperature gloss paint as the cart or should be be a dull black high temp paint? Thanks for the help in advance.

Congrats on getting a parts grill. You do have the fever!

Of course your paint question is ultimately a matter of personal preference. If you want to be authentic, then I would go with the satin/flat shade you have. I think a lot of others here would probably say to do that on the aluminum side pieces of the hood as well.

For me personally, if my goal was to make the grill more attractive (and not be as worried about what they originally looked like) I would use the gloss on the side caps of the hood and possibly even the firebox as well. Maybe you could try the flat on a side piece to see if you like it. You can always paint over and change. There have been a number of redhead restores on here done both ways. You might want to search under "redhead" and see what the pictures look like to get more ideas.

Good luck and enjoy! We will all look forward to restoration process pictures!

 

[Bruce]

I use the flat black on the fire box. Gloss on the hood end caps and frame.

 

[Jose Robles]

Thanks Jon and Bruce... I took Bruce’s recommendation in color scheme.

I been busy the last two days. I ended up using the cart from the spare grill I bought along with flavorizers bars and grates. The wood on the spare grill is in really good shape. I just need to sand and stain and my grill will be complete IMO. I used a 2in drill wire brush to clean inside the firebox. I could of done a better job but it won’t matter after the first cook.

 

[Sam Bee]

Looking good Jose!

 

[Bruce]

very well done. Looks great.
Makes me feel a little guilty for letting mine get dirty. I need to at least get out and clean the pretty red hood. I suppose a rag and some Simple green and ten minutes will do it.

 

[Rich Dahl]

Nice job on the 1000 Jose. Guess I'm going to have to start checking the Phoenix Craig's list, nothing up here at all. I hate going down the 17 to get there and it's 100 miles each way. But at least it's warmer in the valley than up here.

 

[LMichaels]

Nice looking grill! Keep up the good work. BTW those slats look like durawood not "real" wood

 

[Jose Robles]

Nice looking grill! Keep up the good work. BTW those slats look like durawood not "real" wood

I thought durawood was plastic. I priced out oak and it would run me around 60 dollars. Not really trying to spend that on wood even though it would look much nicer I am sure

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Nice job on the 1000 Jose. Guess I'm going to have to start checking the Phoenix Craig's list, nothing up here at all. I hate going down the 17 to get there and it's 100 miles each way. But at least it's warmer in the valley than up here.

Thanks Rich... I am always on there looking

 

[Brian B Atlanta]

Jose, I think those might have been wood stained grey really not sure would be easy enough on the undersides to figure out by sanding if they were. You don't want to use oak anyway will not hold up if the get wet. They will wick even treated eventually they will.

Others and myself have used the 1x2 Cedar boards from Lowes, Hd has them also. They just need to be cut to fit but you have to go thru a lot of them as you want to avoid the knot holes I actually went thru maybe 30 to get the ones I wanted. They are in the specialty section where the clear pine boards are not with the regular lumber. In HD its like 4.32 for an 8 foot board.

HD https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-...t-Kiln-Dried-Cedar-Board-C-BP102K08/206460933

I used a HD semi-solid deck stain you can get the color you like in an 8oz sample can which I think would be plenty to do what you need. I bought a 32oz can for like 16 bucks cause I liked the color and will use it on other projects. Find my thread on my 1000 restore you can see the color.

I like what Bruce used but you need the boards as close to free of knots as you can because what you see is what you get. He used teak oil.

Looks great by the way.

Brian

 

[Jon Tofte]

Beautiful redhead, Jose!

I have been confused by the references to durawood myself. I have always thought that the original slats were stained cedar and then they went to wood that was stained or somehow covered light gray. (That is what yours appear to be.) Then they went to plastic slats the same size as the old wood ones but made out of a plastic-type material. This is what I thought was called “durawood”. Finally, with the Silver (and Gold) Series, Weber went to one-piece trays made of a material that looked a lot like the earlier version plastic slats (durawood?) but which seem to have been called “thermoset”.

If my history is right you probably can sand and restain your pieces. Good luck, whatever it takes. Here’s one idea: you might try something like Mother’s Back to Black on the plastic wheels. Not only will it bring the black color back, it will also protect the plastic from UV dry out. Those wheels are pretty good for that and then the whitewalls crack and fall off.

 

[Jose Robles]

Brian and Jon, thanks you and thanks for that information. I pulled one of the pieces and sanded it. It’s wood for forsure...

 

[LMichaels]

So there ya go. You can do what I did to the Genesis I had many years ago. I hit them with a good sealing primer and then painted them International Harvester Red which happens to be a perfect color match to the red porcelain hood. They look outstanding on a red head grill BTW and totally seal up the slats

 

[Jon Tofte]

Brian and Jon, thanks you and thanks for that information. I pulled one of the pieces and sanded it. It’s wood for forsure...

Jose,
You sure are blessed to be in the dry southwest! Like Rich says, where “rust isn’t allowed!”

The metal end pieces on your trays look almost brand new. Here in South Florida they would have been reduced to rust covered scrap metal.

Look forward to seeing how your slats come out.

 

[Bruce]

The Durawood is PLASTIC. It melts. I have had a and still have a couple grills with durawood. The piece next to the fire box tends to melt. It is hard to find a grill with the durawood that isn't all stained. It is pretty crappy stuff in my opinion.

I don't know for sure, but when they went with the one piece shelves and tables, I don't think they were made out of the same stuff as the Durawood. The one piece stuff (Thermoset) is much more rigid. It is easier to clean up than the durawood.

I have only rehabbed and resold one durawood grill. I have several more to rehab and they will wind up with wood. The cedar is cheap, naturally weather resistant and looks good if stained. That is what I used to replace the wood on my Genny 1000.

 

[Jon Tofte]

The Durawood is PLASTIC. It melts. I have had a and still have a couple grills with durawood. The piece next to the fire box tends to melt. It is hard to find a grill with the durawood that isn't all stained. It is pretty crappy stuff in my opinion.

I don't know for sure, but when they went with the one piece shelves and tables, I don't think they were made out of the same stuff as the Durawood. The one piece stuff (Thermoset) is much more rigid. It is easier to clean up than the durawood.

I have only rehabbed and resold one durawood grill. I have several more to rehab and they will wind up with wood. The cedar is cheap, naturally weather resistant and looks good if stained. That is what I used to replace the wood on my Genny 1000.

Bruce,

That is exactly what I have experienced. I agree that the "durawood" is the gray somewhat speckled plastic stuff, and it DOES melt. I did one restore with durawood shelves, a charcoal gray "Target" edition Genesis. It was authentically restored and an attactive grill, I think, but the stained wood is definitely better:

The newer one-piece "thermoset" pieces seemed to have at first been more regular gray and then later a more blue-gray color. This material, although not nearly as attractive as stained wood, is probably the most practical solution on the Genesis grills. It seems to have a higher temperature tolerance, cleans up easily, and you can even sand it a little to restore it if it fades.

I think we may have sometimes misidentified some of the 90s Genesis grills with the light gray wood as being "durawood" when, in fact, it is just wood stained with an opaque gray color. I don't know if they also lessened the quality of the wood at that point. It is like you said, though, cedar is not very expensive and nice new stained tables really look great.

I have to say, though, that the grill Jose got looks to be in incredible condition, even the wood. Down here, not only does all the metal on the trays rust out, but the wood also rots and splits, too. In Jose's super dry Arizona situation, it looks like he is blessed to be able to restore the original pieces.

 

[Jose Robles]

Finally got her done. Overall, I could have done a better job but happy with end results as she was my first project. I need to show the 3000 some love next.

Thanks for the advice guys, appreciate it..

 

[Bruce]

It's lookin good to me. Good job.

 

[THyde]

Great work, that grill is beautiful! For what it's worth, and this is a point of difference so please don't take it as a challenge, but the cast iron grates are "supposed" to go flat side up, pointy side down. Some like pointy side up though, so there is no truly correct way, but my experience is with the flat side up I get bigger char marks and better cooks. Just my experience, everybody has their own opinion.

 

[Bruce]

THyde: I think the older cast iron grates were different. The thinner side was supposed to go up. That grill might have a set of the older grates on it.

 

[Jon Tofte]

Great work, that grill is beautiful! For what it's worth, and this is a point of difference so please don't take it as a challenge, but the cast iron grates are "supposed" to go flat side up, pointy side down. Some like pointy side up though, so there is no truly correct way, but my experience is with the flat side up I get bigger char marks and better cooks. Just my experience, everybody has their own opinion.

That's funny, because I have often wondered what the "right" way really is. As Bruce noted, the older cast iron grates do seem to have been made to have the rounded thinner side up. I think that is what you will see in the old Weber pictures, too. I personally am most familiar with these. But, I suppose you could reverse these if you were so inclined.

The newer grates seem to have been made to provide those wide grill marks and be used with the flat side up. I see them in store displays, though, and often feel they look "upside down" with the wide flat part up. (I have even reversed a few of them.) But like you say, everybody has an opinion! That's part of what makes the world go around...