My Redhead Rebuild


 
One more question on cleaning the valves I have mineral spirits can you use that with the scotch pad to clean them or do you really need the brake cleaner.

CB ripping it all apart this weekend will let you know going to do an in the dark test tonight to get a better handle on the flames but I intend to clean the valves and pull the orifices also can't hurt.

Brian
 
Getting there.

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Thanks Bruce I use a behr semi deck stain for them as I wanted some color and of course as you know there are going to be variations in the colors that is just a wood thing. I used the redwood natural stain. I had bought a qt way overkill they sell 8 oz samples so 2 would have been way more than you need just mix them in a container when you get home so the color is uniform it was 15 something for a quart but I could have done all the slats with plenty left over with 2 cans of the sample for less then 8 bucks. Should be 5 or 6 years before they need anything.

Brian
 
Yah, your wood slats turned out really well. I am envious. My next rebuild with wood will be with some higher quality wood.
 
Bruce yours looks fine I used cedar also but I used the 1x2 cedar boards from Lowes and Home Depot sells them also its in the the section where they sell the clear pine and popular. Ed found these they are unfinished on one side smooth on the other but I wish I had sanded the couple of boards that had a bump to them but think of this I have hardwood floors there is always variations in color, the nice thing with those 1x2's is they are literally cut to length nothing else I have a 12" chop saw so I probably had no more than 20 minutes to cut them because I took my time cut the first board then used that as a guide to cut the rest got them all pretty close maybe no more than a 16 of an inch.

I must have picked thru 40 boards to find ones with no knots 4.22 for an 8 footer need 2 handle will get into later. By the way there was a guy who asked you in another post how to space them you replied use a drill bit bottom and I used an 11/32 bit at the bottom worked out well not perfect but pretty dam close.

Brian
 
Brian, I sent you an email about the tank bracket.

Anyway, Yah, I will have to check out Home Depot for those 1x2 boards in cedar for my next project. I may need more info from you at that time. The exact spacing for them will depend on the actual width of the slats that you wind up with. It is just some trial and error to get the right spacing so it is even all the way right to left. So, whatever spacing you used seemed to work good for your situation.
 
Bruce, I set the left side and the right side first flush with the bracket. Screwed those in then it was a 11/32 bit bottom and went from there so the bottom of the bit after the first slat spaced to the top of the next slat insert screw then move to the bottom with the bit screw that in. Impossible to center the bit in the holes unless you have a drill press no worry you will get close enough. Obviously just be careful on the pilot holes no need to go deep.

If you set the right and left side you can use the bit bottom to test the rest of the pieces you should come close its never going to be perfect but who cares. I believe the HD boards would be no different than Lowes should be about an 1 1/2, I sanded mine with 220 including the rough bottom which I could care less about. you don't want to thin the thickness of those slats to much they should lay about perfect.

I got your PM and thank you so much.

Brian
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
I don't have the old burners cross was gone, LM thanks and do you use the brake cleaner on the orifices also.

I will get everything done this weekend working on putting the slats together finished those on Sunday so almost there.
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I use brake cleaner on everything LOL. It's my go to stuff. Even as wasp killer. If you hit them while they're flying they fall out of the air :)
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Bruce its #50 on the parts list 90256 that is the same part number on the 1000. There is also #53 part number 99838 which are 2 tank buttons which I don't know what those buttons do the #54 bolt I can get. I bought the newer scale so I am good there.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/w...ilver-grill-parts-c-193079_193087_193361.html
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Brian, I one with the buttons and they work well. Simple but they are just a guide for the tank to slide along and keep it straight and off the frame.
 
CBVickrey said:
Brian, I will be interested to see what you find out. I have one doing the same and I am wondering if the orifices need to be checked for some obstruction?
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CB will report back tonight or tomorrow, I took the valves apart last night cleaned and lubed them. I took the orifices as LM suggested and cleaned them inside and out, there was a bit of webs in 2 of them not a lot so whether that was enough to be causing a problem I will have to see when I fire it back up.

Brian
 
So CB I finished up my burners are probably where they need to be now. A few things, lubed the valves take pictures before you start I screwed up on of the ones I put back in so it had the wrong orientation the video Chris did is on a Summit the 1000 I have is a bit different in that when you pull the valve stem out there is a plastic washer with a finger in it that fits into a slot at the bottom of the stem you will see it and it needs to go back in the same way when you pull the cone out see if it will come straight without turning it loose then pulling if you have to turn it try to go easy side to side as it needs to go in just like you took it out.

Also the grease which is .99 at advance auto its at the counter on a rack it needs to go on thin and stay away from the small outlet holes I had gotten some in the small hole and when I put that valve back in which was incorrect it was flaming out at low because the grease plugged the hole. Since I had to take it out again I use my compressed air to clear the hole then q tipped the inside to get that grease out.

For sure take the orifices out and clean them they come out very easy at least mine did, there were some cobwebs and a dead bug or something might have been the problem. Took my new burners out hit them with compressed air into all the holes to make sure they were clear took the back burner and switched it out to the front just to see if it made a difference and when I put everything back I had some orange flame on the cross ignitor turns out the middle burner was not straight in the back should be about 5" from the front burner to the middle and of course the same to the back.

Huge improvement thanks to LM and Chris for lube instructions they work like new.

Brian
 
Brian,

Thanks for the update. I am going to clean mine put next weekend, sure it will help. Don't think I need to mess with the valves yet.
 
Need some help almost done it appears my flavorizer bars are stainless I heated the grill up took them off wire brushed them and still have rust on them, took my cup brush just hit a piece of them got almost all off not a shine wanted to be careful, is this just a waste of time and do more damage then its worth.

Also my grill was marked as Natural Gas, Weber said it was registered as propane, I see almost no difference between low and medium and this thing is running hot. Maybe the new therm is bad but this is going way past 550 going to try my Maverick to get a better reading but depressed to say the least.

Bad regulator maybe?

Thanks for the help.
 
Yah, just get off what you can with a wire brush. You don't want to start grinding away steel. They function just as well with the gunk on them as they do completely clean.

As far as your grill being NG or Propane. I would be concerned that someone simply changed the natural gas line to a propane line which would be a bad thing.
 
You could test the thermometer by placing the tip in boling water and see if the needle lands on "test" aka 212°F.
 
My guess Brian is someone just threw an LP hose on a NG grill. Bad JUJU. Grill will run extremely hot, flames licking out from under the flavorizer bars. And little to ni diff low to med.
 
My guess LM also.

My flavorizer bars are for sure stainless they had to have been replaced along the way I put a magnet on them this morning and it did not stick so that is great news. Bruce I will take your advice leave them alone I already cleaned them with a grill brush there is no grease on them as I had heated them on high got them good enough just a bit of surface rust left and very little.

JKim I will do what you said with the thermometer but I also have a Maverick for my smoker so can put it through the rotiss hole and get a reading there also as that unit is very accurate. I think its a bad therm I hope jumps to like 250 almost as soon as you turn the grill on but will test today but again this things seems to be running very hot.

Missed a free 3000 redhead yesterday if the one with the side burner is a 3000, posted 6 hours and when I saw it emailed the guy right away already gone.

Appreciate the help.
 
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