My Redhead Rebuild


 
Bruce that is a great deal for someone like you buy bulk as you keep doing refurbs and thanks for the kind comments on how it is looking. I might do one more down the road really like Jeff's Platinum restore.

I need to get this one done my charbroil falling apart rapidly wife been patient but even she said the redhead looks beautiful and 2 daughters in college they love the look so even the younger generation can appreciate the old ones. Nice to have your kids say dad you are doing a good job.

Brian
 
[QUOTE

Jeff thanks have a question to both, my grill was missing those plastic inserts and screws which I ordered from Weber, do the inserts go thru the frame then you install the control panel and put the screws in?


Brian[/QUOTE]


Brian,
The inserts push in from the outside of the grill inward then the control panel gets screwed into the inserts. There are 3 square holes, only 2 will be used.

Jeff
 
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Brian B Atlanta said:
Bruce that is a great deal for someone like you buy bulk as you keep doing refurbs and thanks for the kind comments on how it is looking. I might do one more down the road really like Jeff's Platinum restore.

I need to get this one done my charbroil falling apart rapidly wife been patient but even she said the redhead looks beautiful and 2 daughters in college they love the look so even the younger generation can appreciate the old ones. Nice to have your kids say dad you are doing a good job.

Brian
Click to expand...

If you do opt for a Platinum II down the road those casters will not work on the HD Summit frame used on the Platinum II.
You'll need this style:
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/3-caster-p-1476670.html?osCsid=a5ql3ikk85e1baoovjtd67jeg6

Jeff
 
Need some help got fire 2nd and 3rd burner a lot of yellow flame do I turn the spider guard s to close or open them to get them blue.
9rJ4HUm.jpg

Brian
 
Bruce thanks actually I had bought the same burners you bought and when I went back to that thread it appears yours did the same thing, first one fine and the middle and back needed an adjustment to get them working properly will play them tomorrow.

Got the wood done over the weekend so just need to get everything back together now.
 
Should be on high. Flame should be mostly blue with yellow tips and be solid across the burner (no dancing away from the burner)
 
I agree. Adjust them on high but the flames should still look good on lower levels as well. Just smaller flames and maybe no yellow on the tips. Do the adjusting in a dark to semi dark place to be able to see the flames best. If you try to do it outside in bright sunlight, you won't even be able to tell the burners are on, much less see how the flames look.
 
I think this weekend I will take the valves apart and lube them probably has never been done and this grill is 1995. I tried adjusting the shutter last night its better but even in my picture above it seems that the back burner is getting way more gas then the others as its much higher with all burners to similar settings. I think LM mentioned to clean the orifices also perhaps that would help also.

So those come out with a wrench I assume and do you just clean those with brake cleaner no need to lube?

Thanks for the help all, Brian
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
I think this weekend I will take the valves apart and lube them probably has never been done and this grill is 1995. I tried adjusting the shutter last night its better but even in my picture above it seems that the back burner is getting way more gas then the others as its much higher with all burners to similar settings. I think LM mentioned to clean the orifices also perhaps that would help also.

So those come out with a wrench I assume and do you just clean those with brake cleaner no need to lube?

Thanks for the help all, Brian
Click to expand...

Brian
Because of the moisture content and corrosive nature of LP and NG (due to moisture) it's not a bad idea to remove the main orifices and clean them inside and out. I have cured many issues by doing this. There may be other issues causing this too. (corrosion in the manifold itself, faulty burner, etc)
 
If the old burners are still usable and you still have them laying around, you could put them back in to test them against your new burners and rule them out as the problem.
 
I don't have the old burners cross was gone, LM thanks and do you use the brake cleaner on the orifices also.

I will get everything done this weekend working on putting the slats together finished those on Sunday so almost there.
 
Brian, I will be interested to see what you find out. I have one doing the same and I am wondering if the orifices need to be checked for some obstruction?
 
Could a guy just stick a piece of wire into the orifices to clean them out? Or is that a stupid question?
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Bruce its #50 on the parts list 90256 that is the same part number on the 1000. There is also #53 part number 99838 which are 2 tank buttons which I don't know what those buttons do the #54 bolt I can get. I bought the newer scale so I am good there.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/w...ilver-grill-parts-c-193079_193087_193361.html
Click to expand...

Brian,

Weber 85888 with "wheels" instead of the buttons would also be an option for you instead of 90286

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/tank-panel-assembly-p-1476249.html

Functionally they perform the same task, to keep the tank away from the frame.

Here is a 1000 with the wheels:

20141003_174024.jpg


I could be convinced to part with a spare 85888
 
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