My Genesis 1000 Restoration (Should have found a better Grill)


 
Thanks - I did not know they made a water based one. I did mine with the non-water based one and I hate the cleanup.
Your Welcome, I saw a member who commented that the water base one does not yellow in time like the oil based one. So it was preferred by that member.
 
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What is the durability issues between the two. I always thought the water based stuff is not quite as durable.
 
What is the durability issues between the two. I always thought the water based stuff is not quite as durable.
Sorry I do not have the experience to answer that one. I have only posted info I gathered from other members on this forum. So your point may be true. I apologize for making so blanket a statement.

This was the info I gathered doing research on this forum when I was planning on doing wood on My Gen 1000, before I found some Black Durawood.
 
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My experience with the water based stuff is that it is not good for this application. It is a lot easier to work with but the price is quality of finish. I do a bit of polyurethane work around the house for example our kitchen table, a unique “bike table” in our dining room, two end tables, my big wooden desk, kitchen island etc. I have also done my grill slats many times, including with water based spar. I would say the water based might be OK for a surface that will be vertical but not for this. The grill slats are outdoors and laying flat. Therefore water sits on them and the sun hits them. The best polyurethane for this application is oil based spar. It is the only true heavy duty weatherproof solution I have found and I’ve tried them all. You do have to deal with cleanup but I have found that good technique allows me the ability to do the work with those foam pad brushes then I just throw them out. I like at least 5 coats and when I apply it, it is crucial to stir the poly (not shake) so you don’t have bubbles, then when I apply it I will paint it on and then when it is all wet do a final slow brush with a wet brush (foam pad). There are usually some very very small bubbles that pop as it dries. This final brushing is so slow, it’s like you barely are pulling the brush along, but not skipping it. All of the stuff I have done this way comes out great no bubbles smooth finish and durable.
 
Thanks @THyde for Clarifying.
My pleasure. I’ve been “getting into” poly for the last few years. I even put it on a trailer with a spray gun! All that said, I still have to re-do the slats on my 2000 properly. I might make a video showing my technique it is not exactly what you find on the internets but incorporates a lot of common tried and true concepts with the throwaway brushes.

I tried water based spar for this, and the finish does not last. I was at first very attracted to it because it dries fast, cleans up with water and does not have an odor when you are working with it, but it is by far the worst finish, worse than even interior non spar oil based poly. My opinion is that contractors like to use it because of how easy it is to use but that it doesn’t really hold up over time and that oil based is the best finish to use by a lot. If you are inside, regular polyurethane oil based is fine. If you were outside, oil based spar.You can look at my post titled could not resist I try the water-based stuff in there. I still have to redo the slats but I am 100% confident that oil based spar will put a finish on that wood that will last for many years.
 
@THyde ,@Bruce ,@Joe Anshien do you all have links to the oil based spar that you all prefer.
I just use the Helmsman stuff you can get at Lowe’s or Home Depot. You will have a choice of gloss or satin that’s up to you. When you are using it, don’t forget to stir it up first, not shake it. But definitely stir it especially with the satin. The dried finish is impacted by the consistency of the material that you apply, and the satin stuff tends to settle to the bottom when it sits on the shelf for a while.
 
My only experience with the water based stuff is on the floors of my last house. They held up great for 12 years with kid, dog and cat. But of course that was indoors. I was so hopeful that it would have been good outside as well.
 
I used sapele, which was all my local lumberyard had in the exterior category. Cedar would have been a bit cheaper if they had it, but not by much. Based on what I read here, wood availability and price seems to vary wildly by region. Bought 2, 14' 1x4 sticks and ripped down on a friends table saw.
Yes, specific woods are had to find now, which i am just finding out
 
So, I sent a message to a guy on ebay who sells different wood. Hes gonna make me all the slats i need in Mulberry.

Mulberry is a very good wood for this application. It didn't even cross my mind till he mentioned it.. Nice looking wood too. So, he cutting it to size and shipping it for around 60 bucks .. Ill take that,, Thats a whole step i don't have to deal with cutting and ripping all these pieces.

Here's a photo he did for another customers Weber grill.
 

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Has anybody had issues with the heat from the firebox affecting the finish on the slat that's closest to the box?
I have not noticed that, but haven't really checked either. So if something is happening, it's on the side of the slat closest to the box, not on the top of that slat.
 
Yeah, maybe that inch of spacing is enough to keep things mellow. I still haven't decided what to do with my wood yet, but I feel like it needs some sort of treatment to survive our humidity.
 
Yep, the Genesis 1000-5000 grills have a heat shield on the outside of the left crossmember. From experience, it helps but is not a 100% guarantee that excessive heat will make it to the side table.
 
Yep, the Genesis 1000-5000 grills have a heat shield on the outside of the left crossmember. From experience, it helps but is not a 100% guarantee that excessive heat will make it to the side table.
Do you have a picture of one? I don't remember seeing one of those one my 5.
 

 

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