My Genesis 1000 Restoration (Should have found a better Grill)


 
I don't see anywhere you mention your intentions with this grill. I am guessing since you bought RC Planer stuff this is a keeper. If so you will have a great grill at less than 1/2 the price of a new one that will outlast a new one.
If it was a flipper then yes you probably will not make money on it, but still could have, by buying less expensive components, as most buyers would not know 7MM SS from 9MM SS grates.
Yes it's a keeper joe.. always wanted 1 with the wood tables.. just love the look of wood. Didn't want a side burner because I have 1 on my other grill which I hardly ever use
 
Are the deep box grills better than the ones with just the 1 row of flavor bars? I have another webber that isn't a deep box which works great. Just don't know if there will be a cooking difference between the 2
The benefits of the deep box with two rows of flavorizer bars are that the deeper box allows more room between the burners and the cooking grates which helps with a more even heat distrobution. Couple that with the double rows of flavorizer bars and you have a generally very good even heat at grate level. Also, that deeper box allows you take out the top row of bars for rotisserie use and place a drip pan for water and to catch drippings on the bottom row of bars and still have plenty of clearance from the spinning meat.

One down side is the more costly set of flavorizer bars and the availability of parts for those grills is beginning to go down significantly.
 
Chuck, love your work in Public Enemy.

With respect to the Z bars, I've been off the forum for a couple years. How did you replace the Z bars? Is there somewhere to get them now?

Thanks, and yes, for a keeper, your $150 is nothing compared to the value you are getting.

I prefer the double layer of flavorizer bars but it could just be a psychological thing. I feel like especially if I'm making sausages they don't flare up as much. Others may have proof that I'm wrong, but I like the deep boxes and that's enough for me!
 
You can get Z bars from Dave Santana/RCPlanebuyer. They are stainless steel and a perfect match but they do cost.
 
Chuck, love your work in Public Enemy.

With respect to the Z bars, I've been off the forum for a couple years. How did you replace the Z bars? Is there somewhere to get them now?

Thanks, and yes, for a keeper, your $150 is nothing compared to the value you are getting.

I prefer the double layer of flavorizer bars but it could just be a psychological thing. I feel like especially if I'm making sausages they don't flare up as much. Others may have proof that I'm wrong, but I like the deep boxes and that's enough for me!
In my case, I got the z bars from a member here.. I traded him a handle he needed and he sent me the bars. And as bruce mentioned, Rcplaner makes them too
 
You can get Z bars from Dave Santana/RCPlanebuyer. They are stainless steel and a perfect match but they do cost.
Aha. Are they shiny stainless? What's he charging? His grates and flavorizer bars, by the way, are indestructable. I've had them running on my NG 2000 for a couple years now and they are just incredible, the grates clean perfectly with the char-gon (I think it's called that) cleaning device, which is just a metal "u" at the end of a handle and it scrapes the residues off without using a brush. As it happens, I have two sets of flavorizer bars (and burner tubes haha) one of which is RC. One set of RC grates, but one set is all you'll ever, ever need. Easily they will outlast both the grill and me.

Chuck, sorry to go all over the place! You might be interested in looking into the Char-Gon cleaning device for the grates so you don't need a brush. This way you eliminate the small odds of getting a metal grill brush tine in your food. Also, if you have the shallow and deep box grills you could always do the toast test side by side. You get a loaf of bread and cover the grates with it to see how evenly the grill heats judging by the ... toastiness of the toast. I'd heat the grill up first. Personally, I tend to keep the rear burner hotter than the front and keep the middle one in the middle, this way medium well is in the back and rare is up front. After the toast test, you can feed local birds if you're into that sort of thing. Or have a lot of sandwiches. Your choice!
 
Aha. Are they shiny stainless? What's he charging? His grates and flavorizer bars, by the way, are indestructable. I've had them running on my NG 2000 for a couple years now and they are just incredible, the grates clean perfectly with the char-gon (I think it's called that) cleaning device, which is just a metal "u" at the end of a handle and it scrapes the residues off without using a brush. As it happens, I have two sets of flavorizer bars (and burner tubes haha) one of which is RC. One set of RC grates, but one set is all you'll ever, ever need. Easily they will outlast both the grill and me.

Chuck, sorry to go all over the place! You might be interested in looking into the Char-Gon cleaning device for the grates so you don't need a brush. This way you eliminate the small odds of getting a metal grill brush tine in your food. Also, if you have the shallow and deep box grills you could always do the toast test side by side. You get a loaf of bread and cover the grates with it to see how evenly the grill heats judging by the ... toastiness of the toast. I'd heat the grill up first. Personally, I tend to keep the rear burner hotter than the front and keep the middle one in the middle, this way medium well is in the back and rare is up front. After the toast test, you can feed local birds if you're into that sort of thing. Or have a lot of sandwiches. Your choice!
Great idea with the test. And I'll order that grate cleaner today. Ty Thyde
 
The RCP Z bars are shiny Stainless. I have seen several members use them as is. But you certainly can paint them if you like. I bought some about three years ago and if I remember right, they were about $6 each. Shipping will make them more expensive, but if you are buying flavorizer bars or grates as well, they can be stuck in the box with those and he won't have to charge you for shipping on them.
 
I had RCP make a custom set of grates for my Wolf grill. Outstanding product and given the size and complicated nature of building them to my spec VERY reasonable indeed. So much so I am considering having him make me a new set of heat shields for the Wolf as the originals were a bit thin and they're beginning to show some signs of fatigue and wear around the edges. I actually think the originals were only 18 ga 304 as they're quite lightweight and I know he would make them from 16 ga. So he may be contacted soon for that
 
If the existing Z bars are rusted, the alternative is removing the old paint, sanding away the rust, passivating, filling in the pitting with body filler and then repainting. Something I did not want to get involved in for such aged deteriorating sheet metal. He used 20 gauge for the z, which is definitely thicker than the stock stuff.

Edit: Inserted pic. I left my stainless color. I wonder what the consensus is for those who have bought these, paint black or leave as is?
64219033941__F65983F4-AF19-4598-B098-1E1EB817FC71.jpg
 
Chris:
How long ago did you buy those from RCP and how much did they cost?
About two months ago I got 4 short bars, and 4 long ones (bottom shelf for 3000 size) and it came in a bit under $60 shipped. I think that included a bit of a deal because of the quantity.
 
If the existing Z bars are rusted, the alternative is removing the old paint, sanding away the rust, passivating, filling in the pitting with body filler and then repainting. Something I did not want to get involved in for such aged deteriorating sheet metal. He used 20 gauge for the z, which is definitely thicker than the stock stuff.

Edit: Inserted pic. I left my stainless color. I wonder what the consensus is for those who have bought these, paint black or leave as is?
View attachment 30077

I think those look great in bare stainless, now I have another upgrade I need to do! :) I'm already looking for some silicone/high temp feet so I can use the trays around the house.
 
But, back to grills. That makes sense to be able to set a hot plate on the side table and then just pick it up and carry it in the house and set it down on the counter. Great idea.
 
If the existing Z bars are rusted, the alternative is removing the old paint, sanding away the rust, passivating, filling in the pitting with body filler and then repainting. Something I did not want to get involved in for such aged deteriorating sheet metal. He used 20 gauge for the z, which is definitely thicker than the stock stuff.

Edit: Inserted pic. I left my stainless color. I wonder what the consensus is for those who have bought these, paint black or leave as is?
View attachment 30077
Do these complete with mounting holes for the slats?
 
From the restos I've done, I really think that the original Z bars were painted with a rubbery kind of substance, not straight up paint. Probably to avoid scratching up the frames. Not sure whether that matters or not, and I do like the idea of having some kind of soft pads on the bottom of the removable side tables. Maybe four chair glides, with screws that do not penetrate the slats? Probably have enough of a bottom so you don't scratch a wooden table with the screw heads holding the slats in, and then you could have felt or whatever kind of material you want on the bottom of the side table. If you want to order weird feet I guess you could use those but again that is another discussion for another forum!
 

 

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