LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2


 
Originally posted by Neil Mager:
So I tried this and I get "wireless is disabled or not associated" under the wifi tab. However, it is enabled.
LAN is the only interface showing uptime, WAN and WWAN do not show any uptime.

Should the WWAN be bridged?

Also, which subnet is your linkmeter on - are you changing it to be the same subnet as your ap or leaving it on the default 200 subnet?
Click to expand...
My WWAN is connected to my house's AP over wireless and has an address. It is NOT bridged, and under physical settings the interface is set to "Wireless Network: Client "capnbry24"". Are you sure you have the wifi security set properly?

Do not change your subnet of the LinkMeter LAN to match your home network. It creates a problem because the WWAN and LAN are not bridged so if they're both on the same subnet, packets can't be routed properly. Even if they could you'd be making another problem, which is putting a second DHCP server on your network (the LinkMeter LAN has DHCP enabled).

IP Addresses for the other conversation
192.168.1.1 - The address of the LinkMeter when it is in the bootloader. This is where you TFTP to. It only has this address for about 3 seconds. To reach it reliably you should connect the LinkMeter's LAN ports to a LAN port on your existing home router, and plug the machine you're connecting from into another LAN port on your home router. You'll need to manually set your IP address to 192.168.1.x. If your home network is already 192.168.1.x, you'll need to change that or use a router that does not already live at 192.168.2.1!

192.168.200.1 - This is the address of the LinkMeter LAN ports once it has booted. You can only access this while plugged in to the LAN ports. There is DHCP enabled on the LAN or you can manually configure your address to 192.168.200.x. This is where you connect to configure the wireless networking http://192.168.200.1/ Do not change this to match your existing home network subnet!
 
New development. I found a probe from a $12.00 thermometer that died on me after 1 grill (big surprise eh?). I plugged it in and I do get a reading. That solidifies it for me. I have some kind of incompatibility with these 732's. Maybe the length is causing the issue. They're 6 footers ones and the probe I just found is probably only 18".
 
Well looks like my problem is the RX on the linksys itself. I get temp reading from it but can't send anything to the router. I have traced the connection all the way through the trace on the linksys. Is there anything else I could try before I scrap this router?
 
Need some help with the router side....connected linksys to my home router lan 3 to lan 3, type in 192.168.1.1 and get address not valid.
(I'm trying to flash it )
 
Hey all, Has anyone else experienced "noise" with their maverick probes? Whenever I pick up one of the probes, touch the shielded wires, etc I immediately get noise into the system (ADC value shoots to 1023), resulting in NAN outputs on the display. Curious if anyone else has seen this issue and how they dealt with it.
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
I use my v3.1 board to control my electric UDS smoker, and built one for my brother for his Bradley smoker.

Works very well,
dave

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
Hi all, I see lots of progress and great advancements since I've been away. I just ordered a set of 3.2 boards and am wondering if anyone has used one of the newer setups to control an electric smoker as opposed to charcoal.
Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Dave. Any schematics you might be able to share or a link to your project? I seem to remember someone made their own with a hotplate, was that you?
 
If you (or Shane) have any extra boards, I'm interested. Shoot me a pm and we can figure out the details.

Neil

Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
Sorry Shane, I got impatient and ordered some from Dorkbot.
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
I built my SSR controller using one of these SSRs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40A-SS...&hash=item19cee116f1

40A is way over kill, but it's cheap and doesn't hurt anything. I wanted a heat sink as well.

You connect the DC control terminals to the HeaterMeter, just like a Fan.

I then bought a cheapo power strip from HD that had 3-12ga plug on the end, and cut the plug off to use. This was way cheaper than buying a 3-12ga pigtail. I then used a bit of 12ga hook up wire to connect it all up. Here is a picture of the schematic.

Items:
3-12ga pig tail
double gang metal box
20A receptacle
12ga hook up wire
speaker wire (for the control signal)
wire clamp to hold pig tail in box
rubber grommet to hold speaker wire in box

SSR.png



P.S. - the SSR will not work correctly if there is nothing plugged into it. It will always stay on. So when you get it hooked up and want to test it quick plug in a fan or something. Otherwise you will be thinking you hooked up something wrong.


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by D Peart:
I use my v3.1 board to control my electric UDS smoker, and built one for my brother for his Bradley smoker.

Works very well,
dave

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
Hi all, I see lots of progress and great advancements since I've been away. I just ordered a set of 3.2 boards and am wondering if anyone has used one of the newer setups to control an electric smoker as opposed to charcoal.
Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Dave. Any schematics you might be able to share or a link to your project? I seem to remember someone made their own with a hotplate, was that you? </div></BLOCKQUOTE> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the great information, you've made really easy for me.
 
I built my SSR controller using one of these SSRs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40A-SS...&hash=item19cee116f1

40A is way over kill, but it's cheap and doesn't hurt anything. I wanted a heat sink as well.

You connect the DC control terminals to the HeaterMeter, just like a Fan.

I then bought a cheapo power strip from HD that had 3-12ga plug on the end, and cut the plug off to use. This was way cheaper than buying a 3-12ga pigtail. I then used a bit of 12ga hook up wire to connect it all up. Here is a picture of the schematic.

Items:
3-12ga pig tail
double gang metal box
20A receptacle
12ga hook up wire
speaker wire (for the control signal)
wire clamp to hold pig tail in box
rubber grommet to hold speaker wire in box

SSR.png



P.S. - the SSR will not work correctly if there is nothing plugged into it. It will always stay on. So when you get it hooked up and want to test it quick plug in a fan or something. Otherwise you will be thinking you hooked up something wrong.


Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by D Peart:
I use my v3.1 board to control my electric UDS smoker, and built one for my brother for his Bradley smoker.

Works very well,
dave

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
Hi all, I see lots of progress and great advancements since I've been away. I just ordered a set of 3.2 boards and am wondering if anyone has used one of the newer setups to control an electric smoker as opposed to charcoal.
Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Dave. Any schematics you might be able to share or a link to your project? I seem to remember someone made their own with a hotplate, was that you? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
Yes

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by D Peart:
I've used two WRT54GV2.1 and one WRT54GSV1 and haven't had the router ever reboot on me.

I've had the web interface hang, which required me to restart the web server.

dave
Click to expand...

Ah, so you were able to telnet or ssh in and restart the process? </div></BLOCKQUOTE> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think that's what I'm seeing as well. Did you lose the previously collected data when you did the restart?
 
Originally posted by Dave Smith:
Need some help with the router side....connected linksys to my home router lan 3 to lan 3, type in 192.168.1.1 and get address not valid.
(I'm trying to flash it )
Click to expand...

Plug directly into your computer, don't go through your home router. Then 192.168.1.1 should work. Flash your router. It'll reboot. Then you can connect through 192.168.200.1. Set up WiFi.

Once you get WiFi set up, your home router will assign the WRT its own IP address on your network. Then you can unplug from the WRT and access it through your home network.

P.S. I'm having serious issues posting today. Brain-farts galore.
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
Setting it to 50% seems to have addressed the issue. I guess 0% no longer disables it.
Click to expand...
I thought it did too so I checked the code's history and it looks like it never did. As you've found, the only way to disable it is to set the percentage really high so it never triggers.
 
Originally posted by Neil Mager:
If you (or Shane) have any extra boards, I'm interested. Shoot me a pm and we can figure out the details.

Neil
Click to expand...
Dont see where I can PM on here feel free to shoot me an email smoke dot shack at verizon dot net
 
I haven't' seen my router reboot, but I lost the first four hours of data on my last cook. Everything seemed to be running fine, but I noticed after about five hours the first four hours of data had disappeared.
 
Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
Hey Shane, any update on those boards?
Click to expand...

Dont see a pm area on the forum any where. how does $10 sound for the board shipped? let me know email: smoke dot shack at verizon dot net
 
Dave,
The image I use is found here:
https://github.com/CapnBry/Hea...er/wiki/Installation

(the bin file)

I then use the tftp method to flash it. You can google for detailed instructions.

http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/ho...eneric.flashing.tftp

Basically you connect your computer to the router, reboot the router, when you can ping 192.168.1.1, you then tftp the image to the router. It will then flash and boot. After that follow Bryan's Wiki page as the router changes the ip address to 192.168.200.1

dave

Originally posted by Dave Smith:
Need some help with the router side....connected linksys to my home router lan 3 to lan 3, type in 192.168.1.1 and get address not valid.
(I'm trying to flash it )
Click to expand...
 
I've used two WRT54GV2.1 and one WRT54GSV1 and haven't had the router ever reboot on me.

I've had the web interface hang, which required me to restart the web server.

dave
 
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