Ben Fillmore
TVWBB Member
Correct
LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2
- Thread starter Chris Allingham
- Start date
Correct
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
1. The WRT54GS, isn't that a completely different beast than a WRT54G? It may not have serial ports or run on 12V. The firmware may run on it though, if the Broadcomm SoC is the same or close.
2. Not sure about this one.
3. I have a bunch of pictures in my picasa album. And this one shows how the 5 pin right angle male connector just goes into the board. Depending on the model of router it could be a lot more complex because of the space requirements.
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
Dragged my smoker over to my girlfriend's house this weekend, and despite not being able to connect to it via wireless (I forgot that the LAN defaults to 192.168.200.1, so I couldn't figure out how to connect via ethernet), I plugged the HM in and tried my hand at smoking an 11lb shoulder and a chicken.
The "stall" at 147F in the wee hours of the morning scared me, but the HM worked awesome!
Looking forward to building a Raspberry Pi version just for the hell of it.
Bryan, have you made any progress on that mobile interface? I'd love to see that make it into the build...
The "stall" at 147F in the wee hours of the morning scared me, but the HM worked awesome!
Looking forward to building a Raspberry Pi version just for the hell of it.
Bryan, have you made any progress on that mobile interface? I'd love to see that make it into the build...
Ben Fillmore
TVWBB Member
Thanks Bryan, the new snapshot let me read the resistances direct. Still no dice though.
All right. I can guarantee that my probes are good and showing the right resistances.
I can also guarantee that my jacks, pin headers and cables are good.
I can guarantee that my HeaterMeter board can read the value of a 4.7K resistor in place of a probe.
I guess next step is to find a potentiometer that'll go up to about 500K to 1M. We'll see if the HeaterMeter just can't handle reading the higher resistances. Maybe I have a cold solder joint somewhere in the ground line that's just too flaky to handle it. Or maybe my probes just aren't compatible due to some aspect of electronics that I don't get. Crossing fingers.
All right. I can guarantee that my probes are good and showing the right resistances.
I can also guarantee that my jacks, pin headers and cables are good.
I can guarantee that my HeaterMeter board can read the value of a 4.7K resistor in place of a probe.
I guess next step is to find a potentiometer that'll go up to about 500K to 1M. We'll see if the HeaterMeter just can't handle reading the higher resistances. Maybe I have a cold solder joint somewhere in the ground line that's just too flaky to handle it. Or maybe my probes just aren't compatible due to some aspect of electronics that I don't get. Crossing fingers.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Yup, but I'm still on the waiting list. I hear I should have one by the end of June.
Mathew Lee
New member
I was reading through some earlier post and found this. http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...03/m/5721075126/p/15
Hope it can help you troubleshoot.
Neil Mager
TVWBB Member
If you want, email me and I can help you unbrick it...that I've had experience at!
nmm zero zero one AT gmaildotcom
Neil
nmm zero zero one AT gmaildotcom
Neil
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
It isn't terribly far, maybe 20ft or so. I'd considered making a unit which had an LCD and displayed the temperature / fan speed but then I thought I'd like some buttons on it and finally I realized that my smartphone or tablet or HTPC actually was this device.
The RFM12B in the main unit only listens, but I suppose could be used to transmit as well at the cost of potentially losing remote probe transmits. It just didn't seem all that useful considering I could just look at my phone. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ok, thanks. Ponder this though. When I cook, usually we are at fairgrounds or at least where there is no internet access. So when I connect my phone to the linksys I lose internet access on it. It's kind of a pain to keep flipping back and forth just to check temps. Any input as to how to make the process easier? Maybe I just need to use a dedicated ipod touch or something.
Dave Smith
TVWBB Super Fan
Ok, here's what I get:
Interfaces;network;lan is showing uptime.
wireless-wifi:
general setup:
status 0%
wireless enabled
channel 11
transmit 20 dbm
Interface:
essid-ccg
mode-client
bssid-smith
network .lan
the ipv4 addy I got was 192.168.200.223; all this was when it was connected to my desktop.
diconnected from desktop only the power light is on.
does this look right so far?
Interfaces;network;lan is showing uptime.
wireless-wifi:
general setup:
status 0%
wireless enabled
channel 11
transmit 20 dbm
Interface:
essid-ccg
mode-client
bssid-smith
network .lan
the ipv4 addy I got was 192.168.200.223; all this was when it was connected to my desktop.
diconnected from desktop only the power light is on.
does this look right so far?
Neil Mager
TVWBB Member
Once you enable wireless, the wireless light and possibly the dmz light will be on. The only other thing you need to do is join the local network.
Neil
If wireless was enabled, you should have 2 lights on. I think??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Neil
If wireless was enabled, you should have 2 lights on. I think??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Yeah that's the weird thing. Even when I switch it to "R" units, I can't get a reading from the probe. I get the reading no problem with a multi-meter, but never from the HeaterMeter.
I thought that meant I had a bad connection, but I checked and rechecked everything, it's all good. I know practically nothing about electronics other than how to read a schematic, but I figure the length of the probe line is causing problems. Maybe on account of that "impedance" thing I've heard about.
I'm just gonna order some 73's and see if that takes care of it. Not much more I can do to troubleshoot without knowing some theory. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Just to verify, you are getting the same on the LCD of the AVR and in the web config?
Dave Smith
TVWBB Super Fan
new router coming, but till I understand completely how to set it up,I won't even try.
Spent all weekend trying to unbrick this that I just gave up and ordered a new one, all the sites given to me to help unbrick where no go, guess I really screwed it up good.
Spent all weekend trying to unbrick this that I just gave up and ordered a new one, all the sites given to me to help unbrick where no go, guess I really screwed it up good.
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
If wireless was enabled, you should have 2 lights on. I think???
Ben Fillmore
TVWBB Member
Also setting units to 'R' doesn't seem to work for me. I can swap between F and C, but R does nothing.
Neil Mager
TVWBB Member
From Bryans second post on
http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...03/m/5721075126/p/23
-- Go to Network -> Wifi
-- Hit the "Scan" button
-- ++ If you get a blank list or the web browser complains about malformed xml, just go back and hit scan again
-- Click the "Join Network" next to what you want
-- In the "Join Network: Settings" you want to have the checkbox checked that says create a new network, enter your wifi password, name of new network = wwan. Submit.
-- You should be taken to the WiFi settings page for the radio0, this page may take a minute or two to load completely because it is poorly written. When it does, click the "Unsaved Changes: (number)" on the top right.
-- Click "Save and Apply". It will probably put up a little animated gif you think will go away at some point but never does.
-- Wait about 20 seconds and pull the power on the router and then plug it back in.
http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...03/m/5721075126/p/23
-- Go to Network -> Wifi
-- Hit the "Scan" button
-- ++ If you get a blank list or the web browser complains about malformed xml, just go back and hit scan again
-- Click the "Join Network" next to what you want
-- In the "Join Network: Settings" you want to have the checkbox checked that says create a new network, enter your wifi password, name of new network = wwan. Submit.
-- You should be taken to the WiFi settings page for the radio0, this page may take a minute or two to load completely because it is poorly written. When it does, click the "Unsaved Changes: (number)" on the top right.
-- Click "Save and Apply". It will probably put up a little animated gif you think will go away at some point but never does.
-- Wait about 20 seconds and pull the power on the router and then plug it back in.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Yeah this is pretty bizarre. Have you tried going into the configuration and trying other coefficient presets? It seems if the "R" units show about 1Mohm at room temperature, then you should be getting a temperature value. Maybe try changing the coefficients to another preset then back to the 732 preset?
If the resistance readout gives you an accurate number with a probe plugged in, then you should be good to go. Even if the probes aren't compatible you can use that to calculate the proper coefficients.
Dave Smith
TVWBB Super Fan
Ok, I followed what Bryan had said.....enable wireless interface, save and commit....now in the wireless interface there is lan and wan....which one is enabled?
join...sure, how??
join...sure, how??
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Oops crap. Apparently I broke this when I checked it in. I just fixed it in github and the snapshot if you want to try it again. I don't know about the 732 probes but the 72's are only 200k ohms.
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Correct </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sorry man, I don't have 732 probes right now or I would check resistance on them. I guess next step is to verify what the resistance on the probe should be at around room temperature.
Neil Mager
TVWBB Member
OK, got it...I thought it was going to be a full client bridge, but its a basic client on the network.
Diagnostics are working - pinging openwrt sites etc. and I can access it wirelessly from anywhere on my network.
I'm still waiting for a few more parts from Mouser before soldering starts...and more trouble.
Thanks Bryan!
Neil
Do not change your subnet of the LinkMeter LAN to match your home network. It creates a problem because the WWAN and LAN are not bridged so if they're both on the same subnet, packets can't be routed properly. Even if they could you'd be making another problem, which is putting a second DHCP server on your network (the LinkMeter LAN has DHCP enabled).
IP Addresses for the other conversation
192.168.1.1 - The address of the LinkMeter when it is in the bootloader. This is where you TFTP to. It only has this address for about 3 seconds. To reach it reliably you should connect the LinkMeter's LAN ports to a LAN port on your existing home router, and plug the machine you're connecting from into another LAN port on your home router. You'll need to manually set your IP address to 192.168.1.x. If your home network is already 192.168.1.x, you'll need to change that or use a router that does not already live at 192.168.2.1!
192.168.200.1 - This is the address of the LinkMeter LAN ports once it has booted. You can only access this while plugged in to the LAN ports. There is DHCP enabled on the LAN or you can manually configure your address to 192.168.200.x. This is where you connect to configure the wireless networking http://192.168.200.1/ Do not change this to match your existing home network subnet! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Diagnostics are working - pinging openwrt sites etc. and I can access it wirelessly from anywhere on my network.
I'm still waiting for a few more parts from Mouser before soldering starts...and more trouble.
Thanks Bryan!
Neil
My WWAN is connected to my house's AP over wireless and has an address. It is NOT bridged, and under physical settings the interface is set to "Wireless Network: Client "capnbry24"". Are you sure you have the wifi security set properly?
Do not change your subnet of the LinkMeter LAN to match your home network. It creates a problem because the WWAN and LAN are not bridged so if they're both on the same subnet, packets can't be routed properly. Even if they could you'd be making another problem, which is putting a second DHCP server on your network (the LinkMeter LAN has DHCP enabled).
IP Addresses for the other conversation
192.168.1.1 - The address of the LinkMeter when it is in the bootloader. This is where you TFTP to. It only has this address for about 3 seconds. To reach it reliably you should connect the LinkMeter's LAN ports to a LAN port on your existing home router, and plug the machine you're connecting from into another LAN port on your home router. You'll need to manually set your IP address to 192.168.1.x. If your home network is already 192.168.1.x, you'll need to change that or use a router that does not already live at 192.168.2.1!
192.168.200.1 - This is the address of the LinkMeter LAN ports once it has booted. You can only access this while plugged in to the LAN ports. There is DHCP enabled on the LAN or you can manually configure your address to 192.168.200.x. This is where you connect to configure the wireless networking http://192.168.200.1/ Do not change this to match your existing home network subnet! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>