LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2


 
For Starters, thanks to everyone with all of the information provided in this discussion. I just recently started looking for a solution to temp control on my smoker. I looked at all of the R2R stuff such as stoker and guru. I liked all of the features offered, but it just seemed too easy. I also love projects. (My Wife hates them though) After reading through a lot of this thread and the older thread I decided that the Linkmeter was what I looking add to my grill.

I have tons of questions to get started.

1. I have WTR54gs and a wtr54gs v.5. Will there be any extra steps I will need to take in order to have the linkmeter firmware work properly?

2. The smoker I plan to add the linkmeter to is a Chargriller Outlaw w/ side firebox. This grill is massive and I know that the 6.5cfm blower will not be near enough for this. What size blower would be recommended and will anything need to be changed for the blower circuits or the programming in order to operate a larger blower?

3. I can look at wiring diagram like its nothing but going from a schematic to a board layout doesn’t work so well for me. Does anyone have pics of there linkmeter build that could be used for reference? The biggest area I get lost in is the connections between the heatermeter and the Linksys board.

I am sure I will have more question once my boards arrive from Dorkbot. Thanks in advanced for any help and suggestions.
 
Okay, I have no idea any more.

Pins on my PCB are good.

My jack is good.

I get readings on the heatermeter when I hook up a resistor across ground and probe 1 pins.

Heatermeter tells me no Pit probe if I hook up the actual probe.

Checking the reading of the probe I get 1.0 mega ohms at room temperature. Is this a proper reading for the 732?
 
732's, but I don't plug them in too far. I can get a reading on my ohmmeter down at the pin header.

I'm picking up some alligator clips from the Shack today, I'll play around some more once I can test easier.
 
Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
Ok, I got everything put together and am ready to flash but no go, or at least I think no go. I ordered pre loaded AVRs from Sparkfun so bootloader should be ok. This is what I get in linkmeter:

5236861acce5b4ee4e5a850beebc2f66 /tmp/hm.hex
Stopping LinkMeter OK
hmdude: compiled on Feb 15 2012 at 15:43:06
Using port: /dev/ttyS1
Loading ihex file: "/tmp/hm.hex" (20476 bytes)
Starting sync (release RESET now)...
Sync: ERROR
Sync: ERROR
Sync: ERROR
Sync: ERROR
Sync: ERROR
Update failed
Starting LinkMeter OK
Current HeaterMeter version is Unknown

All voltages seem ok on the board, I tested the 12v in and the 5v at the voltage regulator and on the VCC pin on the AVR.
Click to expand...

Ok, I got the firmware loaded with FTDI but no com with the linksys.
 
Now that is handy to know. I always changed the temperature to be R and reflashed my HM.

Does is also bypass the temperature sanity check?

Nicely done,
dave

Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
/private/var/folders/b4/064_0r5j3hg_g0k8k6jrlb300000gn/T/build1040361846416029873.tmp/heatermeter.cpp.hex
Click to expand...
Haha, wow that is one heck of a path. They really don't want you to find that do they?

If you go to configuration page and set the setpoint to (any number)R (like the units of the setpoint are 'R' instead of 'C' or 'F'), the food probes will display their actual resistance rather than the temperature, which may be more use than the computed temperature.

At least it should do that, my LinkMeter is unplugged because I used it this weekend and forgot to plug it back in, so I can't check. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
Grumble. Bridging the ground pin and probe 1 pin with a resistor, and I get a steady temperature reading.

I get good readings from the probes when they're plugged into the jacks...

Probably a bad crimp job on the common pin, maybe?
Click to expand...

Sounds like it to me.
 
This is something Bryan posted sometime back somewhere. But it is how I configure my LM everytime.

Step 3a - Configure wireless client (manual)
If you're familiar with editing config files with vi, the quickest way to do this is to edit /etc/config/network and make your wan section look like this:

config 'interface' 'wan'
option 'ifname' 'eth0.1'
option 'proto' 'dhcp'
option 'hostname' 'lm54'


and edit your /etc/config/wireless

config 'wifi-device' 'radio0'
option 'type' 'mac80211'
option 'macaddr' '00:25:9c:52:44:5e'
option 'hwmode' '11g'
option 'channel' 'auto'

config 'wifi-iface'
option 'device' 'radio0'
option 'ssid' 'yourwirelessap'
option 'mode' 'sta'
option 'network' 'wan'
option 'encryption' 'psk2'
option 'key' 'yourwpakey'


Obviously the ssid and key should be changed, also the encryption if you aren't using WPA2 PSK. Finally commit it by /etc/init.d/networking restart

I think the /etc/init.d/networking change to network or something like that, but you should be able to find it.

I've never been able to configure wireless via the GUI successfully.

dave

Originally posted by Dave Smith:
ok, I'm not getting it set up right as it's not being recognized by my home network, so I'm not sure what the settings should be. Would someone have a step by step for setting it up to run off the home network?
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
/private/var/folders/b4/064_0r5j3hg_g0k8k6jrlb300000gn/T/build1040361846416029873.tmp/heatermeter.cpp.hex
Click to expand...
Haha, wow that is one heck of a path. They really don't want you to find that do they?

If you go to configuration page and set the setpoint to (any number)R (like the units of the setpoint are 'R' instead of 'C' or 'F'), the food probes will display their actual resistance rather than the temperature, which may be more use than the computed temperature.

At least it should do that, my LinkMeter is unplugged because I used it this weekend and forgot to plug it back in, so I can't check.
 
Have you connected directly from your computer to one of the LAN ports and tried 192.168.200.1?

That should always work.

dave

Originally posted by Dave Smith:
well I can't even access router now, and resetting won't work.....cisco square is lit, power and wlan light on. Pressing reset for 30, unplug 30, poweron 30 and release reset ....nothing.
Click to expand...
 
As you can see, not all of us are computer savey!
icon_frown.gif
 
I don't have a potentiometer, though. Oh well, one more item to get from the Shack.

Oh, and what the crap Arduino? What kind of path is this:

/private/var/folders/b4/064_0r5j3hg_g0k8k6jrlb300000gn/T/build1040361846416029873.tmp/heatermeter.cpp.hex

That's where I ended up finding the compiled sketch. Oi vey. Wish I had a linux installation. Things are sane there.
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
This is something Bryan posted sometime back somewhere. But it is how I configure my LM everytime.
Click to expand...
Actually, that procedure shouldn't work any more. OpenWrt changed their something or other and the WLAN can't be on the WAN bridge any more.

The way I do it (and I can't do step by step because my LinkMeter is still not on) is:
1) Make sure your LinkMeter has a default configuration. Use the reset configuration option that's in the backup/restore section. Reboot after reset.
2) Enable the wireless interface and Save and Commit the changes.
3) "Join" the wireless network you want to be a part of, all the bridge options and interface names are default. Make sure you select your wireless security and enter your wireless password. Save and Commit.
4) It will say "committing changes" or something with a spinny cursor. After about 30 seconds just pull the plug on it and reboot.
5) You can find out the IP address it got from the status page when it comes back up.
 
Yes that is always fun to find
icon_smile.gif


dave

Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
I don't have a potentiometer, though. Oh well, one more item to get from the Shack.

Oh, and what the crap Arduino? What kind of path is this:

/private/var/folders/b4/064_0r5j3hg_g0k8k6jrlb300000gn/T/build1040361846416029873.tmp/heatermeter.cpp.hex

That's where I ended up finding the compiled sketch. Oi vey. Wish I had a linux installation. Things are sane there.
Click to expand...
 
Ok, I got everything put together and am ready to flash but no go, or at least I think no go. I ordered pre loaded AVRs from Sparkfun so bootloader should be ok. This is what I get in linkmeter:

5236861acce5b4ee4e5a850beebc2f66 /tmp/hm.hex
Stopping LinkMeter OK
hmdude: compiled on Feb 15 2012 at 15:43:06
Using port: /dev/ttyS1
Loading ihex file: "/tmp/hm.hex" (20476 bytes)
Starting sync (release RESET now)...
Sync: ERROR
Sync: ERROR
Sync: ERROR
Sync: ERROR
Sync: ERROR
Update failed
Starting LinkMeter OK
Current HeaterMeter version is Unknown

All voltages seem ok on the board, I tested the 12v in and the 5v at the voltage regulator and on the VCC pin on the AVR.
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
I look on my router (home router, not LM) under the devices tab. It will list all the IPs that it has served out.

dave

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dave Smith:
Got things set up, but where do I find the WRT's ip addy?
Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>


ok, something not right, no ip addy....followed Bryon's posts and tried Nick's also, must not be getting wireless right.
 
well I can't even access router now, and resetting won't work.....cisco square is lit, power and wlan light on. Pressing reset for 30, unplug 30, poweron 30 and release reset ....nothing.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
Yeah this is pretty bizarre. Have you tried going into the configuration and trying other coefficient presets? It seems if the "R" units show about 1Mohm at room temperature, then you should be getting a temperature value. Maybe try changing the coefficients to another preset then back to the 732 preset?

If the resistance readout gives you an accurate number with a probe plugged in, then you should be good to go. Even if the probes aren't compatible you can use that to calculate the proper coefficients.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's the weird thing. Even when I switch it to "R" units, I can't get a reading from the probe. I get the reading no problem with a multi-meter, but never from the HeaterMeter.

I thought that meant I had a bad connection, but I checked and rechecked everything, it's all good. I know practically nothing about electronics other than how to read a schematic, but I figure the length of the probe line is causing problems. Maybe on account of that "impedance" thing I've heard about.
icon_biggrin.gif
I dunno.

I'm just gonna order some 73's and see if that takes care of it. Not much more I can do to troubleshoot without knowing some theory.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by E. Fox:
raspberry pi finally shipping. still planning on migrating to a pi based controller?
Click to expand...
Yup, but I'm still on the waiting list. I hear I should have one by the end of June. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

FYI Bryan, I now have access to a 3d printer when it comes time for a case.
 
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