LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2


 
Here is the verbose version of the last run.

-- Mache

C:\Patches\Arduino\arduino-0023\hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude -CC:\Patches\Arduino\arduino-0023\hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf -v -v -v -v -patmega328p -cusbtiny -e -Ulock:w:0x3F:m -Uefuse:w:0x05:m -Uhfuse:w:0xde:m -Ulfuse:w:0xff:m

avrdude: Version 5.4-arduino, compiled on Oct 11 2007 at 19:12:32
Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/

System wide configuration file is "C:\Patches\Arduino\arduino-0023\hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf"

Using Port : lpt1
Using Programmer : usbtiny
AVR Part : ATMEGA328P
Chip Erase delay : 9000 us
PAGEL : PD7
BS2 : PC2
RESET disposition : dedicated
RETRY pulse : SCK
serial program mode : yes
parallel program mode : yes
Timeout : 200
StabDelay : 100
CmdexeDelay : 25
SyncLoops : 32
ByteDelay : 0
PollIndex : 3
PollValue : 0x53
Memory Detail :

Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
eeprom 65 5 4 0 no 1024 4 0 3600 3600 0xff 0xff
Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
flash 65 6 128 0 yes 32768 128 256 4500 4500 0xff 0xff
Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
lfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 4500 4500 0x00 0x00
Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
hfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 4500 4500 0x00 0x00
Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
efuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 4500 4500 0x00 0x00
Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
lock 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 4500 4500 0x00 0x00
Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
calibration 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00
Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
signature 0 0 0 0 no 3 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00

avrdude: Using SCK period of 10 usec
Programmer Type : USBTINY
Description : USBtiny simple USB programmer

CMD: [ac 53 00 00] [00 00 00 00]
CMD: [ac 53 00 00] [00 00 00 00]
avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
this check.


avrdude done. Thank you.
 
woot, pi just got delivered. I have not been so excited in a long time. looking forward to end of June
icon_smile.gif
.
 
I have the same problem burning the boot loader using v1.0. It works with the previous versions (22 or 23). I am too lazy to figure out how to fix the problem so I still use the other versions.
 
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask or not, but here goes:

I'm an embedded hardware guy and know enough about firmware to design the hardware for it, but I'm not up on the finer details of modern embedded linux. I have a WRT54GS v2.1 I want to run linkmeter on but would rather not have to install all of the packages and configure it by hand. The pre-built linkmeter image is targeted at the standard WRT54G, but looking at the stock OpenWrt binaries for the S and non-S versions on the WRT54G it looks like the only difference is in the first line:

WRT54G - W54G........G.U2
WRT54GS - W54S........P.U2

I'm guessing this is just an identifier so the firmware updater can check that you aren't trying to install firmware for another device, but since the rest of the file is identical could I just take the pre-built linkmeter image and edit those two bytes at the beginning of the binary and be on my way? The fact that the rest if the stock OpenWrt image is identical leads me to believe this would work, but I don't know if the linkmeter package relies on anything less generic to run.
 
Question:

I installed The atmega I installed came preloaded with optiboot on it. How can I tell if I built the board right? I've got it installed on the router board, should I just attempt to do an avrupdate through the router like in the wiki?

Also, in all the picture I see, it looks like only the +12V is connected to the router. Do I need to hook up the ground to something as well, or is ground connecting through the serial connection?

Thanks
 
To answer my own questions:

The board is built right.

I do not need to hook up a ground to the power header.

The file is heatermeater.cpp.hex

Also, note to self: check the backlight level before you assume the LCD is not working.

All is good so far. Next to wire up a sensor or two.
 
Hi,

My linkmeter is quite sensitive to probe dopouts too. Fry fist proper run I need to play with the following ideas on why:
1. Try different power supply feeding the linksys
2. Power the heatermeter direct and 'backfeed' the router
3. Does the ambient temperature affect operation?
4. Are the ET73 probes more stable
5. Does the problem persist when heatermeter is operating independent from the router?
6. Does the fan operation make dropouts occur more freqently?
 
Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by N Waring:
Hi,

My linkmeter is quite sensitive to probe dopouts too.
Click to expand...

At first it was sensitive to probe dropouts for me, but now, I can't get it to recognize them at all. >
icon_frown.gif


As a test, can you put a resistor across one of the probe inputs on the heatermeter board itself? Maybe a bad solder joint on the common pin??????? Ou bad connection on the connector???

I really don't know what to do because all my connections seems to be fine. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
Hello everyone!! I must say I'm grateful that I stumbled on this forum. And much praise to everyone that has but all there hard work and brain power in to this lovely lil project!!!
I have been following this thread for some time now and have decided to to order the parts and start my adventure to LinkMeter land.

With that being said does any one have a 3.2 board available for purchase? Thanks for all the help in advance because I'm sure i will have lots of questions.
 
Originally posted by Dave Smith:
icon_wink.gif
if i went to my main computer downstairs, how would i connect the wrt...would i disconnect the desktop from the dlink825, plug in the wrt to desktop and type 192.168.1.1 there?
Click to expand...

Yes. You have to give the WRT time to fully boot when you plug it in first, but that should work.
 
Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
I had a thought. What is the range of the wireless probe module? Could this be used to send current temps to a dedicated receiver? I was thinking a simple device with a large led display.
Click to expand...
It isn't terribly far, maybe 20ft or so. I'd considered making a unit which had an LCD and displayed the temperature / fan speed but then I thought I'd like some buttons on it and finally I realized that my smartphone or tablet or HTPC actually was this device.

The RFM12B in the main unit only listens, but I suppose could be used to transmit as well at the cost of potentially losing remote probe transmits. It just didn't seem all that useful considering I could just look at my phone.
 
Originally posted by N Waring:
Hi,

My linkmeter is quite sensitive to probe dopouts too.
Click to expand...

At first it was sensitive to probe dropouts for me, but now, I can't get it to recognize them at all. >
icon_frown.gif


I really don't know what to do because all my connections seems to be fine.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
I had a thought. What is the range of the wireless probe module? Could this be used to send current temps to a dedicated receiver? I was thinking a simple device with a large led display.
Click to expand...
It isn't terribly far, maybe 20ft or so. I'd considered making a unit which had an LCD and displayed the temperature / fan speed but then I thought I'd like some buttons on it and finally I realized that my smartphone or tablet or HTPC actually was this device.

The RFM12B in the main unit only listens, but I suppose could be used to transmit as well at the cost of potentially losing remote probe transmits. It just didn't seem all that useful considering I could just look at my phone. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

As usual, thanks Bryan. I like your button board. Did dorkbot do those as well? I'm trying to decide between a copper trace board or just perf.
 
Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
Word to the wise:

CP-2506-ND from Digikey will not work as a replacement for the 2.5mm phonejacks. They're not quite long enough to make it through the wall of the WRT54G's case. *sigh* Off we go on another component hunt.
Click to expand...

I got mine at radio shack. I mounted mine a little differently though and put them on a metal plate. May be worth a visit there.....
 
Originally posted by C McDugan:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
Grrrrrr, Female Crimp Pins for 0.1" Housings 100-Pack on backorder.....
Click to expand...

I used some IDSS series IDC cables from samtec, just cut them up into the right widths. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

We think alike, was considering getting some of the pre-crimped wires from pololu and cutting them in half.
 
@Daniel Schoonover: Any of the models that have 16MB of RAM and 4MB of flash are suitable but the WRT54GL works best on account of it having a 3"x3" cutout in the PCB which makes a great place to attach the HeaterMeter board. One of the other WRT54G revisions has it as well I think but I'm not sure which.

@Neil Mager: On the original, I used the 10k thermistor as my ambient probe but the newer design calls this "Food Probe3" because you can use any food probe as an ambient sensor just by plugging in a maverick probe and letting it dangle. The parts list includes the thermistor though which can be soldered either directly to the HeaterMeter PCB or you can solder it to the unused pin on the probe jack which makes it an ambient sensor when nothing is plugged in and a food probe when something is plugged in. You do have to switch the coefficients when you change configuration though.
 
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