Latest rehab finished and listed for sale


 
Bruce said:
I think the biggest benefit of the 1000 over the Silver B is the deep fire box. I don't think the extra flavorizer bars are all that big of a deal and I think some people (experienced grillers) go with just the five E/W bars. But, the big thing is that the bigger/deeper firebox allows more room for a rotisserie and I think the distance from the burners also aids is a more even heat at the cooking grate level.

I have to get busy and make up a bunch of the wood slats for some of my coming rehabs. I am debating whether to continue to use the cedar or go with something prettier like the oak or other hardwoods. i will probably stick with cedar due to cost and it's natural weather resistance and just use a little darker stain than I used on mine.
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Bruce,

I plan to use oak on my Skyline project. I hand-picked pieces totally the opposite of what others here look for; instead of clear pieces I went for the tiger-stripe patterns that will fit with the look I am trying for. I suppose oak is not as weather resistant, but it is worth it for the beauty. I will do my best with multiple coats of spar urethane.

I heard that a local lumber yard here in Hobe Sound, of all things, has redwood. I think that could be a cool, historic Weber kind of wood to use. I would love to pair that up with a maroon hood.
 
I would not use Oak although Tim used it on his but he really hit it with a lot of spar. Oak will cup when wet if not totally sealed and I mean totally sealed with multiple coats. Whats wrong with the cedar if your buying the just cut to length stuff at Lowes or HD just a matter of what finish you choose. Personally I liked the look of your 1000 when you used the teak oil.

What about using the cedar and trying the spar if you want to change it up. As you know I used a deck semi-gloss deck stain for mine gave it some color and it not a whole lot of work to hit it with another coat in a few years no need to kill it with sanding when you do it but its a different look some would not care for.
 
Jon Tofte said:
Rich,
That green grill is a beauty, and the right person will come along in time. I do wonder if it is easier to sell the pre-Silver Genesis grills with the slat tables or, as has been mentioned, the 300 series because they do look more modern and a lot larger. (After going back to a Genesis Silver C from a SE-330 I have to agree it is an appearance thing and that they really aren't that much bigger.) The older Genesis does have more of a cult following for which I think some would be willing to pay for, at least that's what I am hoping so:eek:!
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I think the early Genesis grills do have a cult following but no so much the silvers. I've never had a problem selling a slat grill. The last one I sold was to a younger couple and the man said he wanted it because when growing up that's what his dad had as a grill.
I might look into the E/W 300 series grills. The one I have is a 2009 so it's 9 years old and there isn't a spec of rust on the cabinet. So that isn't going to be a problem here in the dry air.
 
The B C types do look tiny compared to the early numerical type 1, 2, 3 or x000 series. I noticed that when I had the 2000 along side my Silver B
 
Jon, I did not see your post on the tiger stripe before I replied. Yes you need to be really careful about coating everything especially the ends with the spar. Ever see what happens when a dishwasher leaks on hardwood floors the oak starts to cup and it cannot be fixed. I get it you would be coating all the surfaces which in a hardwood floor is not the case but just keep that in mind.

Hey that is fun about the wood get any look you want, the redwood would be really interesting but must be pretty expensive I would assume.
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
I would not use Oak although Tim used it on his but he really hit it with a lot of spar. Oak will cup when wet if not totally sealed and I mean totally sealed with multiple coats. Whats wrong with the cedar if your buying the just cut to length stuff at Lowes or HD just a matter of what finish you choose. Personally I liked the look of your 1000 when you used the teak oil.

What about using the cedar and trying the spar if you want to change it up. As you know I used a deck semi-gloss deck stain for mine gave it some color and it not a whole lot of work to hit it with another coat in a few years no need to kill it with sanding when you do it but its a different look some would not care for.
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I imagine that is what I will do Brian. I will grab some more of those Cedar fencing planks, rip them to the right width and make a bunch of slats of the varied length that the grills require. Then hit them with a nice stain and some of that Spar. I know my slats are pretty nasty since I haven't really cleaned them since I set the grill up. BBQ sauce, grease, drippings, etc....all over them. I am kind of worried how well they will clean up without having a true seal coat on the slats. I suppose I will clean the whole grill up when I finally get around to putting the new Blue hood on it. But, yah, I think cedar, stain and spar will be my next try at wood slats. I will try to buy 6 or 7 of the boards and hopefully I can get someone in the store to rip them for me. They would do a better job than I can do with my second rate table saw.
 
I agree, the redwood would be a perfect wood for the slats. Great color and grain along with excellent natural weather resistance make it the perfect wood for outdoor use. It used to be used extensively until the redwood forests began to disappear 40 years ago or so. I know when my parents had their house built in 1969, they had a redwood deck put on it and it lasted past when they left in about 2000 and they never did any weather proofing on it...no stain or sealant or anything.
 
Bruce, I guess you are flipping so cost is an issue but your labor is an issue also. I get the cedar fence planks and sounds like you have the table saw to rip them I do also. When I looked at those they did not seem to be a uniform thickness but your 1000 came out great so maybe they are.

So these are 4.32 a board you would need 2 8' boards if I remember on my 1000 so I think you are basically talking another 4 bucks compared to the planks or am I off base.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-...t-Kiln-Dried-Cedar-Board-C-BP102K08/206460933
 
Here is my next project. I decided to do the E310 with front burners since my E310 side burners did so well. I didn't remember its condition except that I had to dig out a bunch of crap just to get down to the heat sheilds. This is a 2012 model. I have new SS heat sheilds already for it. I think the flavo bars might be salvageable, but not sure. The burners look like they will clean up and all three igniters function correctly. While most on this forum prefer the side control grills with the E/W burners, I think the average buyer will like the front controls and the newer model. The cabinet looks fairly good, but I am a bit worried what I will find when I clean out the inside of the cabinet. That dirt might be hiding the dreaded red cancer. I will probably have to replace the CI grates as they are flaking pretty bad. Nice shiny new aftermarket SS rod grates will make it look a lot better to the average buyer as well.

Since this is my first N/S grill and just my second E3xx series grill, let me know if there is anything I should look out for as I take it apart and start cleaning it up.

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No, this is what I used. You can get about three or four lengths out of each board if I recall correctly. If you sort through the boards, you can find some really nice grain and color patterns. They are perfect thickness as well. Just sanding them down on the top side makes the exact thickness as the original slats. You have to be carefull of knots in the planks as well. But if you have to toss a slat or two due to knots, no big deal. Just look for planks that have few knots or very small ones. They can actually look pretty cool when stained and finished with knots.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alta-Fo...ed-Cedar-Dog-Ear-Fence-Picket-63035/205757693

I did use a thicker stock for the handle however. I think that was a 1" board or similar.
 
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Bruce,

There was a black Genesis 300 E-W listed in my area on OfferUp that looked pretty nice but was not advertised as excellent or restored. Listed at $300 and gone in two days. Obviously don't know the final price, but I found that encouraging. Best wishes with your N-S 300. Once again, rcplanebuyer is the top choice for replacing those heat deflectors, but before he started making them I purchased a cheap stainless set from Amazon which, although thinner, looked fine. I think a new set of stainless heat deflectors will go a long way to making the grill really pop when you open it.

The knobs on these are a pain to clean. Maybe some of the tricks you and others mentioned for the thermoset tables would help. I keep meaning to track down the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. Sounds pretty interesting...

Don't hesitate to contact me if you think I can help with parts or whatever. I guess I have been kind of pegged as a 300 guy. Hopefully I can round that out with some classic 1000 grills soon:D!
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Jon, I did not see your post on the tiger stripe before I replied. Yes you need to be really careful about coating everything especially the ends with the spar. Ever see what happens when a dishwasher leaks on hardwood floors the oak starts to cup and it cannot be fixed. I get it you would be coating all the surfaces which in a hardwood floor is not the case but just keep that in mind.

Hey that is fun about the wood get any look you want, the redwood would be really interesting but must be pretty expensive I would assume.
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Brian,

I do agree that I am probably going to have to go way above and beyond to avoid trouble with oak. I will DEFINITELY go multiple coats with the spar, especially the ends.I do also like cedar, and I am going to see what it will take to get redwood. Both are better and more practical choices. I doubt I would use oak for a resale, but it is a look I am really trying for on my personal long-awaited Skyline grill. I hope maybe this Memorial Day weekend to finally have time and make some real progress... maybe get closer to having at least a grill ready for slats:(.

I am constantly pulled in too many directions:mad:, so we will see what happens.
 
I was looking into oak as well for the bottom shelf of my Gold. But I read an article that some types of oak such as white oak seem to be termite candy. So I went with cedar. I don't want my food cooker become food itself. lol
 
Termites will not bother wood unless it is in constant contact with the ground and a source of moisture. I don't think the slats in a grill would be on their menu. But, as stated earlier, I don't think Oak is the optimum choice for replacing the slats on a Weber grill unless the aesthetic factor it your primary concern.
 
Bruce here is the same one I believe you sold think I posted it in your other thread. I believe they started at 400 went to 385 now 360. Been there for 24 days.
 
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