I will just leave this here


 
Yah, some people consider "Weber" to be synonymous with "grill". That is the reputation that Weber has developed over the years.
 
Two of these and 4 nuts would solve that problem permanently. Just run the rods through the frame and connector to the other side and put on a washer and nut. Tighten it up and cut off the excess rod. They are $2.98 a piece at Home Depot. View attachment 57744
And if you want it to look fancy, after you cut off the rod, install stainless steel acorn nuts instead of regular ones. And put never seize on them so you can get it apart in ten years for the next refurb.
I had time last night and I did a thing…

A little Sunday morning grill ****

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Thanks Steve and Richard- the threaded rods made the difference and the acorn nuts make it look great in my opinion.

She’s rock solid- no more rickets.

Cheers
 
In the second from top photo, those tube inserts are supposed to go "INSIDE" the tubes.
Are those short pieces of tubing used on your grill any where?
 
In the second from top photo, those tube inserts are supposed to go "INSIDE" the tubes.
Are those short pieces of tubing used on your grill any where?
I had some 3/4” steel square tubing- about 1/8” side wall, so I cut them about 5” long. As luck would have it, the leveler inserts fit over the steel ( with a little coaxing), and the whole assembly fit inside the rusted/ compromised 1” Genesis steel cross members.

I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 threads into the 1/8” sidewall square tubing, and bolted the braces through the thin steel into the thick steel- it’s really solid once I tightened it all up.

And I trimmed the stock 1” Weber square tubing down to 23 7/8” to account for the flanges on the leveling inserts.

It worked out as well as I thought it would.
 
OK, it sounds like you went the extra mile in bracing up that frame. 🤙
This is what I was dealing with- and why the leveling inserts probably weren’t 100% working



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But regardless the grill was never really solid from the get go- there was a time I would move the grill into the yard/ lawn for parties and such, and I could tell I was stressing out the connection points “wheelbarrowing” the grill around.

Now that she’s at an advanced age, I have to be more gentle with the old girl.
 
I had some 3/4” steel square tubing- about 1/8” side wall, so I cut them about 5” long. As luck would have it, the leveler inserts fit over the steel ( with a little coaxing), and the whole assembly fit inside the rusted/ compromised 1” Genesis steel cross members.

I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 threads into the 1/8” sidewall square tubing, and bolted the braces through the thin steel into the thick steel- it’s really solid once I tightened it all up.

And I trimmed the stock 1” Weber square tubing down to 23 7/8” to account for the flanges on the leveling inserts.

It worked out as well as I thought it would.
Nice, solid repair John. I like it.
 
Dan, it probably would. My concern, however, is that it might provide a breeding ground for rust with two pieces of steel so close in contact with each other.
 
Dan, it probably would. My concern, however, is that it might provide a breeding ground for rust with two pieces of steel so close in contact with each other.
I primed and painted the raw steel with rust oleum, so that should help.

I own a Toyota Tacoma- have you ever heard of Fluid Film?

It really does a good job.

I am actually thinking about coating the inside of all the steel tubing of this grill later this fall at the same time I do my twice annual wash and rust proof on my truck.

The legs on my grill have welded cross members, so I would drill a few holes around 3/4” diameter so I could fit the flex hose of my sprayer inside those areas too

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Here’s a photo from last fall when I popped off the bed rail covers so I could coat the insides of the bed sides
 

 

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