HeaterMeter v4.0 for RaspberyPi / Standalone


 
Just ordered all the parts, thought the community might find it interesting to see all it takes to put one together.

Compnnt Mfg Item Price S&H Source
Elctrnics Various see parts list $54.07 $12.32 Mouser
Elctrnics Various see parts list $9.09 $6.52 Digikey
PCB OSH Prk HeaterMtr 4.0 PCB $12.00 $2.00 OSH Park
Microctrl Atmel ATmega328P-PU $4.28 $3.69 Microcontroller Pros
RPI RaspPi Raspberry Pi B $41.00 $- Amazon
AC Adptr HDVD 12V 2A AC Adapter $8.99 $- Amazon
NIC Edimax EW-7811UN NIC $11.49 $- Amazon
SD Card Sandisk Sandisk 8GB SDHC $11.43 $- Amazon
Pit Probe Maveric HiTemp 24" $12.99 $- Amazon
FoodProb Thrmwk 1 Needle 2 HiTemp $45.00 $4.99 Thermoworks
BlwrAdptr Auber 6.5CFM L BGE $50.40 $8.34 Auber Instrumentation
Enclosure TomKole 3D print case v3.6 $25.00 $5.00 Tom Kole

Totals $285.74 $42.86

Grand Total $328.60
 
I am about 3/4 way through my build. Unfortunately this project is not much less than a Stoker unless you are able to buy some of these parts in bulk. It was fun to break out my old soldering iron though. I am waiting for my Tom Kole case to finish off my build. The weak link in this project is the awful Maverick probes. They just don't last and will be a money pit in the long run. Hopefully some better probes can be sourced and added to the project at some point. Having a Maverick wireless thermometer system I know from experience I rarely get more than 4 or 5 cooks in before I experience a probe failure.
 
I know the probes can be a issue, as I had a couple go bad. But, I have some probes that I even keep outside in the smoker year round with out any problems. I do check them form time to time and they are still accurate. I even get them wet when I clean them.

I still have one of my first 3 foot probes that I got with my Maverick, that I bought about 4 years ago at a green egg event and have used probably close to 100 times.
 
AubreyW said:
Just ordered all the parts, thought the community might find it interesting to see all it takes to put one together.

Compnnt Mfg Item Price S&H Source
Elctrnics Various see parts list $54.07 $12.32 Mouser
Elctrnics Various see parts list $9.09 $6.52 Digikey
PCB OSH Prk HeaterMtr 4.0 PCB $12.00 $2.00 OSH Park
Microctrl Atmel ATmega328P-PU $4.28 $3.69 Microcontroller Pros
RPI RaspPi Raspberry Pi B $41.00 $- Amazon
AC Adptr HDVD 12V 2A AC Adapter $8.99 $- Amazon
NIC Edimax EW-7811UN NIC $11.49 $- Amazon
SD Card Sandisk Sandisk 8GB SDHC $11.43 $- Amazon
Pit Probe Maveric HiTemp 24" $12.99 $- Amazon
FoodProb Thrmwk 1 Needle 2 HiTemp $45.00 $4.99 Thermoworks
BlwrAdptr Auber 6.5CFM L BGE $50.40 $8.34 Auber Instrumentation
Enclosure TomKole 3D print case v3.6 $25.00 $5.00 Tom Kole

Totals $285.74 $42.86

Grand Total $328.60
Click to expand...

Seems steep on first glance, so I checked what I paid back in July. Looks like the main difference is that you got a 3rd probe and the Auber blower. I wonder if some of the parts have also gone up at Mouser and Digikey? Anyways, just a counterpoint that it can still can be cheaper than some of the commercial alternatives.

27.75 Maverick (2 probes)
15 OSH Park
36.03 Mouser
75.17 Amazon
23.12 Digikey
31.17 Case

208.24 Total
 
Yeah how did you spend $54 at Mouser and only $9 at digikey? Do they have some of the digikey parts now?

Also if you get the Model A RasPi, have probes already, an SD card lying around, and make your own blower holder you can save about $100.
 
Regarding Mouser and Digikey, I ordered 1 extra of all parts under $1 and extras for all connectors. Figured paying a little more now was better than screwing up a $0.60 component or connector and paying $10 in shipping later. Also, I got a 4-line display instead of the 2-line, which adds $10.

Here's my Mouser project showing : https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=370b35bd79


DarrenE said:
Seems steep on first glance, so I checked what I paid back in July. Looks like the main difference is that you got a 3rd probe and the Auber blower. I wonder if some of the parts have also gone up at Mouser and Digikey? Anyways, just a counterpoint that it can still can be cheaper than some of the commercial alternatives.

27.75 Maverick (2 probes)
15 OSH Park
36.03 Mouser
75.17 Amazon
23.12 Digikey
31.17 Case

208.24 Total
Click to expand...
 
Good points all around, Bryan.

Regarding Mouser, here's what I ordered: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=370b35bd79
4-line display, extras of all connectors and of parts under $1, got a right-angle RCA connector to replace the Auber connector, etc.

As you said, you can definitely do it for less. But I've traded $ for risk! To each his or her own :D

Bryan Mayland said:
Yeah how did you spend $54 at Mouser and only $9 at digikey? Do they have some of the digikey parts now?

Also if you get the Model A RasPi, have probes already, an SD card lying around, and make your own blower holder you can save about $100.
Click to expand...
 
I found all of the parts that Mouser didn't have at Digikey, use Bryan's wiki hardware list for Digikey links. The only one I had to order elseware was the ATMega which I had to order from Microcontroller Pros.

PaulFisher said:
I just ordered all the parts from Mouser and some are on Backorder until mid January. Sucks.
Click to expand...
 
Anyone tried the Thermoworks probes? I just ordered a few and I'll see how they do. From the description they look to be better made, but we'll see. On the other hand, I've had my Maverick probe for 2 years and no problems.

Dave Gagnon said:
I am about 3/4 way through my build. Unfortunately this project is not much less than a Stoker unless you are able to buy some of these parts in bulk. It was fun to break out my old soldering iron though. I am waiting for my Tom Kole case to finish off my build. The weak link in this project is the awful Maverick probes. They just don't last and will be a money pit in the long run. Hopefully some better probes can be sourced and added to the project at some point. Having a Maverick wireless thermometer system I know from experience I rarely get more than 4 or 5 cooks in before I experience a probe failure.
Click to expand...
 
Thought you all may find it cool that there is currently a Google Glass app being developed to feed and display probe and graph info from the HeaterMeter to the device. A couple of developer buddies of mine and I were talking during the Big Android BBQ (I am the head chef for the event) and I was telling them how I wished I could use my Glass device to interact with my heatermeter. There is a preliminary build out, I will post it once I get permission that it's okay to do so.
 
Can anyone tell me how I make my graph viewable outside of my network? It is setup and running perfect on my home network, but I want to be able to access from my phone when I am out and about.
 
Adam P said:
Can anyone tell me how I make my graph viewable outside of my network? It is setup and running perfect on my home network, but I want to be able to access from my phone when I am out and about.
Click to expand...

Setup port forwarding on your wireless router to forward port 80 and 443 to your HM/rPi IP, then connect to your wireless routers IP from the remote device to view the HM page.

If your phone has a hard time loading the main HM page try loading the "light" page at http://YourWirelessRouterIP/luci/lm/light . This page has no graph, but it will give you the temp of all the probes and the ability to change the setpoint on the pit.
 
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I might be mistaken, but I don't believe forwarding 443 is necessary. I think that is only for https.

You might also find it beneficial to set the HM up to have a static IP. Otherwise, if your HM IP address changes, you will have to update the port forwarding information on the router. Another consideration... if your ISP changes your IP address very often, you might want to look into dyndns.org. I have cable Internet. My IP rarely changes. So, I don't worry about it.

Also, you should be able to locate your LAN IP address in your router config. But, from your computer, you can also visit http://whatsmyip.org. That's the IP address you would use from outside of your home network to access your HM.
 
RalphTrimble said:
Setup port forwarding on your wireless router to forward port 80 and 443 to your HM/rPi IP, then connect to your wireless routers IP from the remote device to view the HM page.

If your phone has a hard time loading the main HM page try loading the "light" page at http://YourWirelessRouterIP/luci/lm/light . This page has no graph, but it will give you the temp of all the probes and the ability to change the setpoint on the pit.
Click to expand...

On my network using the ip works, but not outside the network, and my ports are forwarded correctly.
 
Adam P said:
On my network using the ip works, but not outside the network, and my ports are forwarded correctly.
Click to expand...

Networks can be setup lots of ways, depends on what you got going on. Darren gave you lots of good tips for accessing your WiFi router (and HM) from outside your network... To help you further we would need to know how your network is setup.....

What type of internet connection do you have? Is your wireless router built into your Cable/DSL router/modem or is it a separate unit?

When connecting from outside your network you will have to use a INTERNET IP, not a local IP. (local IP's are generally in the form 192.168.x.x or 10.0.X.X etc). The IP returned by WHATISMYIP.com would be the one to use to connect. Give us more info about your internet setup and we will try to help...
 
RalphTrimble said:
Networks can be setup lots of ways, depends on what you got going on. Darren gave you lots of good tips for accessing your WiFi router (and HM) from outside your network... To help you further we would need to know how your network is setup.....

What type of internet connection do you have? Is your wireless router built into your Cable/DSL router/modem or is it a separate unit?

When connecting from outside your network you will have to use a INTERNET IP, not a local IP. (local IP's are generally in the form 192.168.x.x or 10.0.X.X etc). The IP returned by WHATISMYIP.com would be the one to use to connect. Give us more info about your internet setup and we will try to help...
Click to expand...

Cable internet with a static ip. Comes in via a Motorola Surfboard > Belkin Wireless N Router > Heatermeter via Wifi

I forwarded the ports 80 and 443 to the internal ip of my heatermeter. I used the ip as given from whats my ip and when I use that address from my laptop on the same wireless as the heatermeter it works just fine. If however I try the same address on my cell phone the page wont load.

So this is where I am going http://68.102.25.139/luci again loads just fine on my laptop but not on my cell. Here is my port forward page in my router.

HZFLqKf.jpg


I did as instructed, and I have a good bit of knoweldge on making stuff like this work. I have an IP cam I can access outside my network just fine
 
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