HeaterMeter v4.0 for RaspberyPi / Standalone


 
Ive read through this whole thread. I am not good at soldering. I am good at plugging computer parts together as I have been building computers for 15 years. I also am familiar and okay with Linux.

With that said, would anyone be willing or have plans to produce a completed board? I think all I would need to do is plug it into the raspberry pi and connect the lcd via a cable?
 
Jason, Bryan has a HeaterMeter 4.0 Assembly guide that maps it out pretty well. If you've got experience with computers, and read a soldering howto online I don't think you'd have much trouble with it. I'm pretty new to this stuff and I built my 4.0 board in like an hour and change this past week.
 
Kyle Christensen said:
Jason, Bryan has a HeaterMeter 4.0 Assembly guide that maps it out pretty well. If you've got experience with computers, and read a soldering howto online I don't think you'd have much trouble with it. I'm pretty new to this stuff and I built my 4.0 board in like an hour and change this past week.
Click to expand...

Well, I also work at one of the largest semi conductor companies in the world (but I am in marketing), but I am sure I can find someone there to help me out. I also have a lot of engineer friends. Maybe I will ask them.

I am kind of torn here. I need/want something to regulate the heat in my smoker. Here is my dilemma. I use the Maverick et-732 (I believe) and the range sucks. I found this project and backed it out Kickstarter: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/52038469/knut-stay-connected. Basically it is a wifi enabled device that runs on batteries (for quite a long time) and allows you to put in a lot of different types of sensors to monitor stuff. It reports back and they have a Windows/iOS/Android app for it. I backed it solely with the idea of having a more versatile smoker temp monitor. I am working with the creators and will be specifically testing for smoker applications.

So I can use this device (which I should get in the next few weeks) with a simpler ATC like the IQ110. This device is so dead simple and already has an easy way to mount to the WSM.

Or I an build a HeatMeter with Raspberry Pi. The geek in me wants to build one. And since I also ready have probes from the Maverick, this should be cheaper (not counting the case...yikes). And if the Knut doesn't work well for smokers, then I already have a device that does... How are people connecting the fan to the WSM in this application?

And can I connect to the HeaterMeter via cellphone outside my home network? Maybe using my external ip and a specific port
 
I wasn't good at soldering either when I started this project. I still don't have a professional level of experience, but I've designed everything using big through-hole components on a friendly 0.1" grid to make assembly easy enough for someone who might be picking up a soldering iron for the first time.

The benefits of the HeaterMeter are real-time monitoring and control. The Knut isn't continuously connected-- it seems more like a logging/alert device. The IQ110 gives you control, but no monitoring. For $140 you can build a HeaterMeter (excluding the case, yikes indeed)!

Yes you can connect to the HeaterMeter while away from home if you forward a port from your firewall to it. CapnBry's HeaterMeter
 
Bryan Mayland said:
I wasn't good at soldering either when I started this project. I still don't have a professional level of experience, but I've designed everything using big through-hole components on a friendly 0.1" grid to make assembly easy enough for someone who might be picking up a soldering iron for the first time.

The benefits of the HeaterMeter are real-time monitoring and control. The Knut isn't continuously connected-- it seems more like a logging/alert device. The IQ110 gives you control, but no monitoring. For $140 you can build a HeaterMeter (excluding the case, yikes indeed)!

Yes you can connect to the HeaterMeter while away from home if you forward a port from your firewall to it. CapnBry's HeaterMeter
Click to expand...

The Knut is configurable. It can check sensors every 1 second if told to do so. Also, the inventor says it can connect to a breakout board which can be used to turn a fan on or off based on a sensor reading. Interesting.

I think I am going to probably build this HeatMeter with Raspberry Pi. I am sure I can find someone to help me. My only concern is a case. If I gutted a linksys cable modem, could I fit all I needed in that casing do you think? Also, how are people attaching the fan to the WSM? If i bought an Auber Fan (more expensive, I know, could I connect that fan to the HeatMeter? Lastly, for now, why is there a need for rca video out on the HeatMeter?
 
I would say it would make more sense to just pick up a project box at Radio Shack instead of trying to stuff it inside a case meant for something else. The dimensions are roughly 4.3" x 3.4" x 1.5" all-inclusive, thinner if you don't mind the LCD sticking out a bit. The only issue would be that the connectors are all mounted on the HeaterMeter board, meaning you'll need to be able to be flush at least two of the edges (bottom, right) or else you'll need to use external connectors rather than the board mounted variety ("panel mount" instead of "through hole").

You can use the auber fan but it has a 2.5mm barrel power connector to power it, the HeaterMeter uses an RCA jack. You can wire in a 2.5mm panel mount fan power jack instead of the RCA or build a simple adapter cable. There's no RCA video out from the HeaterMeter itself, that is just the connector used for the fan. In the original design I needed a fan jack I had some RCA jacks left over from building an S/PDIF connector or something and it sort of stuck because RCA cables are easy to scavenge.

Attaching to the WSM I think most people take a metal dog bowl, cut a hole for the blower, and then use a super long screw that is inserted into one of the vent holes on the bottom and secure it with a big washer and nut. The whole thing is tightened down so the dog bowl forms a seal around the vent.
 
Jason,

I say go for it, if you get stuck PM me. I live in Round Rock and can help out. We'll meet at Rudy's, I'll bring my soldering iron, we'll grab a back table :)

dave
 
Jason J said:
The Knut is configurable. It can check sensors every 1 second if told to do so. Also, the inventor says it can connect to a breakout board which can be used to turn a fan on or off based on a sensor reading. Interesting.

I think I am going to probably build this HeatMeter with Raspberry Pi. I am sure I can find someone to help me. My only concern is a case. If I gutted a linksys cable modem, could I fit all I needed in that casing do you think? Also, how are people attaching the fan to the WSM? If i bought an Auber Fan (more expensive, I know, could I connect that fan to the HeatMeter? Lastly, for now, why is there a need for rca video out on the HeatMeter?
Click to expand...

There's a more affordable case located in this thread:

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?37515-My-stand-alone-heatermeter

But it's going to require more soldering.

I use the auber fan with mine. Here's a pic of the setup. The hole that the wires are coming out of are where the RCA adapter would normally go.

IMG_3283Large.jpg



As Bryan mentioned you will need to make a simple adapter. I made small little shapeways case for my panel mount connector, but just wrapping it in electrical tape would be a lot cheaper. Link for the case I made is here:

http://www.shapeways.com/model/736259/electric.html?li=productBox-search

Edit: Or you could cut the DC power adapter off the end of the auber fan and put on a RCA connector if you didn't want to mess around with an adapter.
 
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Bryan Mayland said:
I would say it would make more sense to just pick up a project box at Radio Shack instead of trying to stuff it inside a case meant for something else. The dimensions are roughly 4.3" x 3.4" x 1.5" all-inclusive, thinner if you don't mind the LCD sticking out a bit. The only issue would be that the connectors are all mounted on the HeaterMeter board, meaning you'll need to be able to be flush at least two of the edges (bottom, right) or else you'll need to use external connectors rather than the board mounted variety ("panel mount" instead of "through hole").

You can use the auber fan but it has a 2.5mm barrel power connector to power it, the HeaterMeter uses an RCA jack. You can wire in a 2.5mm panel mount fan power jack instead of the RCA or build a simple adapter cable. There's no RCA video out from the HeaterMeter itself, that is just the connector used for the fan. In the original design I needed a fan jack I had some RCA jacks left over from building an S/PDIF connector or something and it sort of stuck because RCA cables are easy to scavenge.

Attaching to the WSM I think most people take a metal dog bowl, cut a hole for the blower, and then use a super long screw that is inserted into one of the vent holes on the bottom and secure it with a big washer and nut. The whole thing is tightened down so the dog bowl forms a seal around the vent.
Click to expand...

I think I would prefer to do a panel mount type plug instead of a board mount to get it inside a nice case. I like to finish things off :) Can the lcd be connected via a ribbon cable instead of directly to the board?

Ahhhh the RCA jack is to power the fan- that makes more sense!

That would work. I was also thinking that maybe I could pick up this: http://store.pitmasteriq.com/ad02.html which is designed to fit on the WSM and the Brinkmann (I have a heavily modified ECB I dont use because it was so hard to control heat so I bought a WSM. However, using an ATC it might work very well as I have sealed the lid using an over gasket).
 
D Peart said:
Jason,

I say go for it, if you get stuck PM me. I live in Round Rock and can help out. We'll meet at Rudy's, I'll bring my soldering iron, we'll grab a back table :)

dave
Click to expand...

Awesome! I actually live in Pflugerville but since most non Austin area have no idea where that is, I just put Austin. Do you have a built HeatMeter? I would love to see one in person. Maybe I can buy you some Rudy's and you can give me a look?
 
Alan Erickson said:
There's a more affordable case located in this thread:

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?37515-My-stand-alone-heatermeter

But it's going to require more soldering.

I use the auber fan with mine. Here's a pic of the setup. The hole that the wires are coming out of are where the RCA adapter would normally go.

IMG_3283Large.jpg



As Bryan mentioned you will need to make a simple adapter. I made small little shapeways case for my panel mount connector, but just wrapping it in electrical tape would be a lot cheaper. Link for the case I made is here:

http://www.shapeways.com/model/736259/electric.html?li=productBox-search

Edit: Or you could cut the DC power adapter off the end of the auber fan and put on a RCA connector if you didn't want to mess around with an adapter.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pic! I think I would like to keep it as simple as possible. I will probably stick with the Digikey one.

I talked to two people at church who said they would help me so yay! I am going to do this :)
 
I have made 4 or so of them. I have a v3.2 and a v4.0 now, given all the rest away to friends and family.

dave

Jason J said:
Awesome! I actually live in Pflugerville but since most non Austin area have no idea where that is, I just put Austin. Do you have a built HeatMeter? I would love to see one in person. Maybe I can buy you some Rudy's and you can give me a look?
Click to expand...
 
Finally started to gather the parts!
Mouser order is in. Digikey is short the header, so waiting on that unless I can find something at Radio Shack.

I'll order the PCB and Rpi this week too.

I thinking to link the LCD by ribbon in the long run, but that's a future thought...
 
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Jason J said:
I think I would prefer to do a panel mount type plug instead of a board mount to get it inside a nice case. I like to finish things off :) Can the lcd be connected via a ribbon cable instead of directly to the board?
Click to expand...
Yup! While the board is designed to have everything integrated, the probe jacks, blower output, and LCD are also designed to accommodate standard 0.1" pin headers for running things to panel mount plugs. I should have put one on the DC power jack too but I wasn't thinking straight I guess despite spending dozens of hours laying out that board.

I actually use an old floppy drive cable to connect the LCD to my main / test board because it isn't in a case.
 
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Bryan Mayland said:
Yup! While the board is designed to have everything integrated, the probe jacks, blower output, and LCD are also designed to accommodate standard 0.1" pin headers for running things to panel mount plugs. I should have put one on the DC power jack too but I wasn't thinking straight I guess despite spending dozens of hours laying out that board.

I actually use an old floppy drive cable to connect the LCD to my main / test board because it isn't in a case.
Click to expand...


Do you have a picture of it connected via a floppy cable? Do you have to cut the connector off, strip each wire, and solder individually?

For panel mounting, I am looking at buying:

Probe Jacks: AUDIO JACK 2.5MM MONO x 4 - http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=124721069&uq=634937786652607756
Blower Output: RCA Jack - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NYS367-2virtualkey56810000virtualkey568-NYS367-2

Are you saying the one thing I cannot mount to the panel is the dc power jack? Did I read somewhere that the system can be powered either by this or through the Rpi using a microusb cable?
 
Jason J said:
Probe Jacks: AUDIO JACK 2.5MM MONO x 4 - http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=124721069&uq=634937786652607756
Blower Output: RCA Jack - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NYS367-2virtualkey56810000virtualkey568-NYS367-2

Are you saying the one thing I cannot mount to the panel is the dc power jack? Did I read somewhere that the system can be powered either by this or through the Rpi using a microusb cable?
Click to expand...
HeaterMeter v3 used all panel mount jacks and these are the jacks recommended then:
Mono 2.5mm jack
RCA female jack
both from Mouser

The DC power jack can be panel mount too, but there's no pinheader for it so you'll have to solder directly to the footprint (which is pretty huge so it shouldn't be a problem). For posterity I'd say you can actually just wire it to the probe ground connection and 12V fan connection, but it is easier to say it should go to the existing footprint.

You can power the HeaterMeter board from the 5V microusb jack on the Pi, but that only gets you 5V so the fan won't operate at that voltage. An easy way to test the board without powering it from 12V though.

Yes you can use those wires to connect the pi/heatermeter. The schematic lists the only wires that need to be connected, but connecting them all doesn't hurt.

Here's the LCD connector. You can't mess it up really, just connect the red stripe to pin 1 on both and figure out which side of the plug you're using. If you've got the right set, the LCD will light up (once HeaterMeter is running on the AVR), if not, then it will stay dark. If you've got it the wrong way, nothing can go wrong so don't worry about messing up.


EDIT: NOTE! this LCD in the photo has the pinheader soldered to the top half, but the recommended LCD has contacts on the top and the bottom so it is your choice depending on the final layout you want.
 
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Bryan Mayland said:
HeaterMeter v3 used all panel mount jacks and these are the jacks recommended then:
Mono 2.5mm jack
RCA female jack
both from Mouser

The DC power jack can be panel mount too, but there's no pinheader for it so you'll have to solder directly to the footprint (which is pretty huge so it shouldn't be a problem). For posterity I'd say you can actually just wire it to the probe ground connection and 12V fan connection, but it is easier to say it should go to the existing footprint.

You can power the HeaterMeter board from the 5V microusb jack on the Pi, but that only gets you 5V so the fan won't operate at that voltage. An easy way to test the board without powering it from 12V though.

Yes you can use those wires to connect the pi/heatermeter. The schematic lists the only wires that need to be connected, but connecting them all doesn't hurt.

Here's the LCD connector. You can't mess it up really, just connect the red stripe to pin 1 on both and figure out which side of the plug you're using. If you've got the right set, the LCD will light up (once HeaterMeter is running on the AVR), if not, then it will stay dark. If you've got it the wrong way, nothing can go wrong so don't worry about messing up.


EDIT: NOTE! this LCD in the photo has the pinheader soldered to the top half, but the recommended LCD has contacts on the top and the bottom so it is your choice depending on the final layout you want.
Click to expand...

First, thanks so much for your patience and help. I am learning a lot and I am very excited for this project. I know n00bs like me can be overwhelming. So thank you!

Thanks for the links to the panel mounted options. Is there an option for a panel mounted DC jack? The guy who will be doing my soldering designs motherboards/Logic Cards here locally so he is quite handy with a soldering iron. I am fairly confident he can solder the dc jack to the footprint (but I should ask).

Im buying both types in case I change my mind on which case I want to go with. I found a case I ordered I think will work along with some other cool things to panel mount an hdmi/ethernet/usb port to the case for the Rpi. I found two people locally who will print your case in ABS plastic. One for a special one time deal of $50 because he screwed up the initial quote and another guy for $79. No shipping charges. I think that beats Shapeways?

As for the lcd, this item on the list http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM14Vjyw4ze%2bjt57BsII4P7vM= connects to your board and that is where I can plug in the floppy cable correct? Is there a 1x16 pin header on mouser you can recommend for the other end to connect to the LCD?

I am running into some back order issues. The board to Rpi connector, http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=124721084&uq=634938035653222926, is OOS and according Digi-Key it is "Quantity Expected: 1 Ship Date Estimate 2/10/2013". Not sure if that means they are only ordering 1 to be delviered to their warehouses on 2/10/2013? Seems odd. I found it here: http://www.futureelectronics.com/en...ges/2009020-PPPC132LFBN-RC.aspx?IM=0&IT=False but if that is the only part I order from them it will get expensive. Is there an alternative part on Mouser of Digi-Key? Or if I get male to female breadboard jumper wires, can I just solder the male ends and forgo this connector?

Lastly, the other part OOS is the green LED. Is there an equivalent LED on Mouser or Digi-Key? Or can I jsut buy this? http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0087ZT1VO/tvwb-20 ? I know that is over kill, but the shipping on the back ordered LED would be more expensive.
 
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