Alan Erickson
TVWBB Fan
I was curious if anyone knew what the gray trend pointed to below is for? Lid open?
HeaterMeter v4.0 for RaspberyPi / Standalone
- Thread starter Bryan Mayland
- Start date
yep.
You can look here to see more info
https://github.com/CapnBry/HeaterMeter/wiki/LinkMeter-Home
dave
You can look here to see more info
https://github.com/CapnBry/HeaterMeter/wiki/LinkMeter-Home
dave
Paul S (Missouri)
TVWBB Member
Ok, so I got my brand new RPi, did not hook up heater meter to it, wrote newest image to an SD card stuck it in and it works just like the old one did, not at all, any tab I try to get to other than the one you get to from the "configuration" link at the start just ends up in an error. The only thing I can think of that I have not tried is writing to the SD card from a computer that has something other than windows XP? But not sure why that would make any difference. I am at a complete loss as to what to do at this point, its obviously not my heatermeater board, as I never hooked it up, I can't imagine its the Rpi since the chances of getting 2 that have the exact same issue are slim, it has to be the image that is getting written to the card or the power supply, which I have tried 3 of. I have to be doing something wrong, I just cant figure out what that is.......ok done venting, glad everyone else is having success!
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Paul is there any chance I can get an SSH and web connection to your Pi? I'd love to take a look at it to see if I can fix whatever your problem is.
Paul S (Missouri)
TVWBB Member
Possibly, not sure if it would work here at work with all the fire walls etc. they have. I do not have the RPi with me today to try. Maybe we can work something out of an evening or something if nothing else. I wouldn't be opposed to packing it all up and mailing it to you if you would like LOL. I would of course supply return postage if indeed you worked it out, if not it's nothing a hammer wouldn't be able to fix. I enjoy tinkering with sort of stuff, and that is the reason I started this project, I have done several things on the hardware end, but am just getting my feet wet on the software end, all this programming etc.. from your end is all new to me, so I am sure it is something I am doing/have done wrong. It's probably something really simple that I am just not seeing, and will feel less than smart once it's pointed out to me. I am going to attempt to write a raspbian image tonight and see how that acts, if it acts up I am going to try and find a different power supply.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Oh yeah I meant whenever you have an opportunity to have it hooked up to the internet. I'm sure there's just some configuration kajigger that's blowing up luci for some reason and if I can see what it is then maybe I'll be able to fix it in the main image.
Ben Lawson
TVWBB Member
Hi Paul,
Wondering if I have the same problem as you? When I click "Configuration" on the main page it goes in and says something along the lines of "No Heatermeter found". I have to run /etc/init.d/lucid restart, then I am able to click on any of the other tabs with no problems. So for me, LinkMeter->Configuration is causing the crash, I assume because I have no HeaterMeter plugged in. I can see how it would appear that its the other pages that are crashing.
What I did to keep it from hitting the config page until I can get my HM built is change the default page that the LinkMeter tab throws you to.
Edit the following file:
/usr/lib/lua/luci/controller/linkmeter/lmadmin.lua
Change this line:
(line 4): entry({"admin", "lm"}, alias("admin", "lm", "conf"), "LinkMeter",60).index = true
TO:
entry({"admin", "lm"}, alias("admin", "lm", "fw"), "LinkMeter",60).index = true
This makes the LinkMeter tab throw you to the "AVR Firmware" screen when clicked.
Now, since I haven't built a working HeaterMeter yet, I assumed this crash was normal when hitting the config page sinec it could not communicate with the HM.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
That's really odd because it should work fine with no HeaterMeter connected at all (just say that no HM is connected). This is something good for me to check though because if that's the problem then that is definitely a bug I can fix.
AHA yes you are right! This bug was fixed last week but I haven't built new images since then. I'll update them and post new ones tonight. (haha actually connecting to my home machine to make sure I made the change and the source code from the edit is still even on the screen)
Ben Lawson
TVWBB Member
Just loaded the new version, whatever you did fixed it! Hope it works for Paul as well!
Hi to all. I am new to this thread and am very excited to be getting started on this project. Let me first add my thanks to everyone who has helped make this such a great project, and specifically to Bryan, not only for all his work, but for his willingness to share it with the rest of us.
I ordered my rPi in July and finally received notice that it should be shipped this month. I then ordered everything for this project except the suggested parts listed on Digi-Key. My question here is regarding the 12v blower. I see that Bryan is using this with a BGE, but I will be building it for use on my Weber Smokey Mountain. Have others had success in using this same blower with the WSM? If I missed it elsewhere in this thread, my apologies, but I just want to make sure I start with a blower that is easily adapted and attached to the WSM.
Thanks in advance!
I ordered my rPi in July and finally received notice that it should be shipped this month. I then ordered everything for this project except the suggested parts listed on Digi-Key. My question here is regarding the 12v blower. I see that Bryan is using this with a BGE, but I will be building it for use on my Weber Smokey Mountain. Have others had success in using this same blower with the WSM? If I missed it elsewhere in this thread, my apologies, but I just want to make sure I start with a blower that is easily adapted and attached to the WSM.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks, I'll go ahead and order that blower. I certainly don't have to worry about running the smoker in 0F temps here in North Texas.
Paul S (Missouri)
TVWBB Member
It did indeed fix my problem with not being able to move anywhere except to the home and configuration page. Great job guys!!!!
I hooked my HM up and still no communication between it and the RPi though so I still have an issue, but I am very happy to have solved that one. When I try to update AVR firmware I get the following. any ideas? Hooked up HM or not I get the message in config area that serial communication can not be established. Do I need to use the 12v supply for this to work properly? Now that I have the software side worked out I can try to figure out whatever hardware issue I may be having. Thanks for all the help guys!
Stopping LinkMeter OK
LinkMeter platform is BCM2708
AVR fuses ERROR
40f6f566e924a07363053c22b7dfe227 /tmp/hm.hex
hmdude: invalid record at line 160 of "/tmp/hm.hex"
Can't set AVR programming mode (0x00)
hmdude: compiled on Dec 3 2012 at 16:54:58
Using port: /dev/spidev0.0
Update failed
Starting LinkMeter OK
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Serial communication aside, this check here uses the SPI bus to communicate with the AVR which is what the USBtinyISP and other chip programmers use. The RaspberryPi can power the 3.3V HeaterMeter board no problem with just the 5V supply. You can start poking around with a multimeter to maybe see what's going on.
Paul S (Missouri)
TVWBB Member
I was thinking the 12v was only needed once you had the fan attached but couldn't remember for sure. I will do some probing around on it and see what I can find, probably a bad solder joint or something somewhere, I wish I wouldn't have tried using that old solder I had laying around when I ran out and just waited until I got more, I have a sneeking suspicion the problem probably lies with those pins I tried soldering with the old solder they didn't look right, and the solder didn't want to melt right when I was doing it, i should have stopped at that point, but was too excited to get it going lol
thanks for the assistance yet again, maybe at some point I can actually provide something useful to this project
I would grab an old toothbrush and a bottle of rubbing alcohol. Power down the system, pour the alcohol on the board, and scrub with the toothbrush. Do it a couple of times, then allow the board to dry. Take a magnifying glass and look at the solder joints. This will help you find any solder bridge that may have developed. Any solder connection that is not shiny would be considered a cold solder connection. Remove the solder and reflow that connection. With a magnifying glass, you will notice any discolourization of the solder Take you time, use a clean solder tip (it too should be shiny, at all times; use a wet cloth to clean it), and clean solder.
Paul S (Missouri)
TVWBB Member
Thanks for the tips, I plan to do all of the above tonight after I get home. I am sure I will find something that is the cause of all of my frustrations.
John Bostwick
TVWBB Wizard
and use flux. The super cheap stuff at Radio shack works great, just use a q-tip and cover the solder pad and it will greatly help with making connections
Eric Thomas
TVWBB Member
Another success
Well, I got my HM4.0 PCB soldered up last night and so far, so good.
I had one cold solder joint that prevented my control switch from working in the UP direction, but this was straight forward to track down ... I'll probably go back tonight and clean the board with rubbing alcohol. (thanks again for the tip!!)
Couple of my lessons-learned that may be useful to others:
@Kelly_S: I live in Richardson and will be in Lewisville tomorrow (12/8) with some free time on my hands late morning. If you want to see this let me know and we'll meet up.
Thanks everyone. I'm blown away by the amount of information available for this project.
Well, I got my HM4.0 PCB soldered up last night and so far, so good.
I had one cold solder joint that prevented my control switch from working in the UP direction, but this was straight forward to track down ... I'll probably go back tonight and clean the board with rubbing alcohol. (thanks again for the tip!!)
Couple of my lessons-learned that may be useful to others:
- If you power on the rPi standalone before connecting the HM4.0 board to 'test things out' and configure your network, make sure you use a strong USB power supply. My WiFi and ethernet were very flaky until I switched USB supplies. This is a common rPi issue and there are lots of instructions online suggesting voltage across TP1 and TP2 should be 4.8V - 5V. At first mine was 4.72V and with new supply it is 4.95V.
- As others suggested, I removed the video out from the rPi to gain additional space.
- Total project cost for HM4+rPi, ordering everything online (USA), is about $170. This includes recommended blower & LCD, 4 probes, and WiFi adapter. It does not include a case or the optional RF receiver. Well worth it in my opinion, but this is what you should expect if, like me, you don't already have a bunch of parts lying around.
@Kelly_S: I live in Richardson and will be in Lewisville tomorrow (12/8) with some free time on my hands late morning. If you want to see this let me know and we'll meet up.
Thanks everyone. I'm blown away by the amount of information available for this project.
Last edited:
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Another success story! I like hearing that things worked so well.
When used with the RaspberryPi, the ATmega328P-PU without the bootloader is fine. The chip is programmed using the rPi's GPIO lines as an SPI programmer so any bootloader on it will actually be erased when HeaterMeter is flashed from the web interface / avrupdate. It's one of the bigger features of the new platform, no ISP programmer / bootloader needed!