HeaterMeter Hardware v4.3.3, v4.3.4, v4.3.5, v4.3.6


 
Yeah I've never made a 4-line case because you have to roll your own connector situation there because it won't attach directly to the LCD/button board. Because each 4-line install might be done a little differently, it is hard to know what sort of case design would work best. It doesn't come up a lot though. It wouldn't be too hard to modify the case to be taller to support it (hooray for parametric modeling!) but I'm not sure how the LCD would fit, considering the connector would be in the place where the LCD support currently is. Then there is the question of 4x16 or 4x20 LCDs and then it wouldn't be centered in the case any more and what footprint is "standard" and it is just a laundry list of complications!
 
Thanks Bryan,

I guess a followup question would be is there a modify my current HM 4.0 to be able to control a servo like the various damper options here on the boards that I could have someone print me up until I can get my printer working? Don't mean to hijack this 4.3.3 thread.

Thanks for your help!!
Troy
 
Troy Gamm said:
I guess a followup question would be is there a modify my current HM 4.0 to be able to control a servo like the various damper options here on the boards that I could have someone print me up until I can get my printer working?
Click to expand...
There are also some photos in the wiki if you need a little confidence building; I ran this mod until the 4.1 release!
Servo 4.0 Hardware.
 
I've got a bunch of extra M3x25 screws from my original 4.2.4 case build. Looks like from the thingiverse on the 4.3 case they should also work for the new version. If not let me know, otherwise, if anyone needs these M3x25screws I've got a bunch and will ship them out for free. Let me know if anyone is interested!
 
Hi folks,

In my excited rush to join the Heatermeter club, I accidentally purchased the thermocouple version of the PCB even though I'll only be using thermistor probes (derp). Should I remove all/some of the thermocouple SMD components or will I be able to use a 2.5mm thermistor probe in the pit socket without those components causing any problems?

Thanks!
 
Argh, you could have replied to the order email and asked me to cancel it! Sorry I didn't see your message here until the package already went out.

You can just disable the thermocouple probe and use the 3 remaining jacks. The first non-disabled probe will be the control probe. That kinda sucks if you never plan to use the thermocouple though because you'll always have one probe disabled. You can also cut out the thermocouple output from the circuit and install a regular probe jack there. No parts need to be removed.


If you ever decide to switch to using it you can remove the 10k resistor that's needed for the thermistor probe, then solder from the closest pin of the IC to that big green circle and it will re-enable the thermocouple amp. You'll also need to remove the thermistor jack and put in the thermocouple jack obviously.
 
I actually started assembling the board before I realised my mistake anyway so it was way too late to cancel the order.

I only have a few probes to use with it now so I'll just disable it and use the second port as the control. Maybe I'll decide to get a thermocouple later down the track!

Thanks for your help.
 
Hi R Davies, good to see a fellow Aussie with a HM :) I have had mine now for a few months and done a number of cooks with it and love it!

Just out of curiosity why do you prefer to not use a thermocouple? I think it is easier to get hold of thermocouples than good thermistor probes here in Aus. I ordered a few el-cheapos off ebay and use for my pit monitoring as they can tolerate much higher heat and are very cheap compared to the good probes.

Enjoy the HM and don't hesitate to ask questions.

Cheers,
Vic
 
G'day Vic, thanks for the welcome.

It's not that that I'd prefer not to use the thermocouple, I just already have a few Maverick probes on hand. I'll probably end up grabbing a thermocouple eventually - seems like I'd be depriving my heatermeter if I didn't get one now :)

I flashed it up for the first test run tonight. All seems to be working a treat so far (as well as it could without an actual fire to control).
 
Ok fair enough; yeah I also started off by using my Maverick 733 probes though I recently ordered some Thermoworks probes after a Maverick probe failed on me.

I am about to order me one of these: https://core-electronics.com.au/thermocouple-type-k-stainless-steel.html

What are you going to use the HM on, and do you already have a damper?

I will be firing up my UDS this weekend with a pork butt for my first overnight cook, looking forward to see how that pans out.

enjoy!
 
That probe looks the business... I've just ordered one as well.

I've got a Dragon Kamado - https://www.barbequesgalore.com.au/dragon-kamado - very impressed with how well it performs for the money. They go on sale every now and then with a $100 discount.

I haven't made a damper for it yet - planning on hacking together a very simple one out of some scrap I've got laying around in the shed. It won't be pretty, but as long as it's effective I'll be happy.

Good luck with the pork.
 
Feeling a bit patriotic this weekend, so I decided to try out the pause function on my printer.

fF5mwWz.jpg
 
WBegg said:
Feeling a bit patriotic this weekend, so I decided to try out the pause function on my printer.

fF5mwWz.jpg
Click to expand...

Pretty good, I have been wanting to try more then two colors but I have not taken the time to try it yet.

There is a machine that will automatically splice different materials together called the Palette by Mosaic Manufacturing. Although, its expensive it looks impressive
 
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