Genesis Platinum cabinet idea


 
For Z bars? I think @Jon had found a source for something that looked like a good solution.
Here is another thread with a solution for the aluminum Z bars.

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McMaster Z Bars and black plastic washers - comparison pictures with originals

As part of my Genesis Junior project, I placed an order with McMaster-Carr for stainless hardware, and some additional bits to experiment with: a 1-foot section of aluminum z bar ($3.21) and a 100-pack of black nylon washers ($9.81). In searching the forums, I saw much discussion of the MM...
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I did use McMaster aluminum Z-bar. For the frame I was able to get stainless tubing through my friend who owned a sheet metal shop back then.
 
A little late here... But I'll add that I use cutting oil when drilling most metals. For aluminum I often will skip it. The next thing I try to do is not overheat the bit. A little smoke from the oil is OK but I try to "duty cycle" the bit as I go through the hole (especially on thicker stuff. If the bit overheats it will ruin the temper and lose the sharp edge. That said, stainless steel can be a bugger to drill (and machine).

And yes, I knew a guy at the machine shop where I worked, back in the 80's, who could easily sharpen bits (what he called "drills"). He knew the exact angles to hold and did it freehand on a grinding wheel. Pretty cool.
 
Update.
My brother found some aluminum sheets for me. He put them in my shed. He got me 3 sheets. Hopefully that is enough for the sides I need. I have got to take a look at it later this evening and compare.
Sorry I have neglected this project just got tied up with taxes, and I am currently having trouble with my van again.
 
@Bruce, It seems like the panel will cover the entire back of mine, however I noticed on your mod the back panel was short in height allowing for an air gap, you think it would be better if I do the same? I am using durawood for the bottom so I will get air from the bottom that way.

@Bruce Skyline Platinum Bottom pic 3.jpg
 
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Samuel said:
@Bruce, It seems like the panel will cover the entire back of mine, however I noticed on your mod the back panel was short in height allowing for an air gap, you think it would be better if I do the same? I am using durawood for the bottom so I will get air from the bottom that way.

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I would go all the way to the top if you can. The durawood bottom gives you plenty of air flow, not that you really need it anyway since you don't have to worry about rust.
 
I would at least leave some gap at the top on the sides. I can attest that it does get fairly hot inside the cabinet when grilling. Heat rises. so sealing up the whole top will trap a lot of that heat. If you leave some gap on the sides, you won't really even be able to see it.
 
Ya I was thinking if I enclose it too much, I might generate enough heat to melt the gill knobs and rubber gaskets on the manifold
 
Bruce said:
Samuel, what are your plans for the doors?
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My bottom is still semi-good condition with a few rust spots. I thought when I get the cross members, I would try to assemble it with the cross members with the bottom resting atop the cross members installed to give me a pattern of where I need to drill the exact pin holes. That is what I was thinking. Do not know if it will work, but I thought I would give it go. I am using bolts to install the cross members and I am not welding them.
 
OK, yah, the trick is getting the cross members in nice and flush so the doors are even. I welded mine, but you should be fine with the connecting nuts. I would also suggest that you order some RCPlanebuyer Z bars for the durawood slats. Introducing carbon steel will invite rust on an otherwise virtually rust proof grill.
 
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