Genesis 1 Restoration


 
Kurt Donnelly said:
I've blasted it, and also heated it, no luck yet. Sprayed it again after the heat, too, just in case it might penetrate better. I think I'll order the tool Hank uses, which will allow more time for patience and penetration while it ships. Then when it twists off anyways, at least I'll know I did what I could!

While I'm on Amazon, I'll also add a tap & die set to the cart. "Save for Later".
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DOn't bother with trying to thread that old brittle aluminum. Drill it out if needed fully and use a small stainless carriage bolt from the inside. Drill the hole just a tiny bit smaller than the square shank of the carriage bolt. It will "bite" into the soft aluminum and end up looking like it was "made that way". Besides, you will never be able to drill the hole in just the right spot for rethreading it due to the bit walking off due to the much harder piece of steel screw in the soft aluminum. Been there done that.
 
Kurt Donnelly said:
That is the most likely solution. 'twould be nice if it were otherwise, but those babies won't budge!
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It happens. I had a cook box that the manifold bolts had "welded" themselves to also. In my case it was no big deal because I could still get the wing nuts off of the manifold to remove it. If even the liberal use of a torch won't loosen them up, then they have become one with the cook box.
 
Bruce said:
I seriously believe that some cookboxes came with the bolts permanently fastened in. At least with silver b c cook boxes that I normally deal with
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Maybe, but I remember buying a new set of burner tubes for my Genesis 1000 and in the box were new nuts and bolts for the manifold. Plus I have since dealt with a few others where the bolts easily came out.
 
I just did one. and the left hand bolt came out just fine but the two manifold bolts were frozen tight. The cook box was in general good shape and I get several of these per year. The bolts themselves are always in great shape, so, there is really no reason to take them out. I even have them sand blasted that way. I truly am convinced that on some older genesis grills, they manufactured them that way. Oh, when one manifold bolt is frozen in, they both are which makes me even more convinced that it was designed that way on some boxes.
 
Bruce said:
I just did one. and the left hand bolt came out just fine but the two manifold bolts were frozen tight. The cook box was in general good shape and I get several of these per year. The bolts themselves are always in great shape, so, there is really no reason to take them out. I even have them sand blasted that way. I truly am convinced that on some older genesis grills, they manufactured them that way. Oh, when one manifold bolt is frozen in, they both are which makes me even more convinced that it was designed that way on some boxes.
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The reason to take them out, is to remove the box from the frame and paint them separately. Is there a better way? I'll be getting back to it soon, I'm at the point I'm just gonna go ahead and twist them off then drill them out.
 
You don't need to remove the manifold bolts to paint the cook box. Just take the nuts off the bolts, remove the manifold and it is ready to paint.....Of course you need to remove the left side cook box bolt though.
If the manifold bolts are stuck and the nuts or paddle bolts or wing nuts won't come off, then YES, you will probably just have to twist them off and drill them out....if other methods won't work.
 
Bruce said:
You don't need to remove the manifold bolts to paint the cook box. Just take the nuts off the bolts, remove the manifold and it is ready to paint.....Of course you need to remove the left side cook box bolt though.
If the manifold bolts are stuck and the nuts or paddle bolts or wing nuts won't come off, then YES, you will probably just have to twist them off and drill them out....if other methods won't work.
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I think Kurt has the set up where the manifold is attached to the cook box with thumb screws.
 
Steve Hoch said:
Keep going on the inside of that lid until it looks new again.
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Mine appears to be pitted or something. Maybe I scraped to aggressively. It comes clean and shiny where undamaged, but try as I might I don't think it will ever regain that new car smell like yours. Or am I seeing it wrong and just need more time with it? I've gone over it repeatedly with Simple Green and .0000 steel wool. In any case, it's clean and functional again, no fear of crud falling into my food.
 
Kurt Donnelly said:
Mine appears to be pitted or something. Maybe I scraped to aggressively. It comes clean and shiny where undamaged, but try as I might I don't think it will ever regain that new car smell like yours. Or am I seeing it wrong and just need more time with it? I've gone over it repeatedly with Simple Green and .0000 steel wool. In any case, it's clean and functional again, no fear of crud falling into my food.
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I'm pretty sure you didn't cause that. I've had them look like that too when I was done. It's just a crap shoot, sometimes they look absolutely perfect underneath all the crud or they look more like that.
 
Yah, never see it on the outside. Not sure why that is. But we do get fade on the outside.
 
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