Does anyone know a good source for old school igniter or rocker switches????


 
I’ve been working on 3D printing them. Trying to replicate them into the program is proving difficult. I don’t have a clean intact set to measure off of as mine off of my Redhead the frame broke
 
TimA said:
I’ve been working on 3D printing them. Trying to replicate them into the program is proving difficult. I don’t have a clean intact set to measure off of as mine off of my Redhead the frame broke
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Tim. I can send you a set for postage. A 3d option would be great. I'm slammed this week but let me know. I should have an extra buried in my garage.
 
TimA said:
I’ve been working on 3D printing them. Trying to replicate them into the program is proving difficult. I don’t have a clean intact set to measure off of as mine off of my Redhead the frame broke
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Don't give up Tim, it would great to have a source for that rocker switch frame. You can still get the buttons new, but not the frame that it goes in!
 
TimA said:
I’ve been working on 3D printing them. Trying to replicate them into the program is proving difficult. I don’t have a clean intact set to measure off of as mine off of my Redhead the frame broke
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There's this 3D model (STL)...looks right, but not sure if it's the one for your grill.

www.thingiverse.com

Weber Grill Ignitor Button by rullmann

This will replace the plastic ignitor button on a Weber grill.
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
 
Following. I’ve got a couple of the broken frames myself. Hoping to see them available soon.
 
Thanks all.......ya I dont wanna keep dragging home donors that I dont need just for the dang starter button.......maybe I will start just stripping parts from curbside donors instead of dragging the whole thing home. I am very interested in the 3D outcome
 
JimV said:
Thanks all.......ya I dont wanna keep dragging home donors that I dont need just for the dang starter button.......maybe I will start just stripping parts from curbside donors instead of dragging the whole thing home. I am very interested in the 3D outcome
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I've done that
 
Yah, Larry, I have done it as well. I will even grab a simple hose and regulator of a Charbroil or other Chinesium grill.
 
And not with grills stuff only. If I see something and a "piece" will do a job for me, I'm takin' it
 
Ed Pinnell said:
There's this 3D model (STL)...looks right, but not sure if it's the one for your grill.

www.thingiverse.com

Weber Grill Ignitor Button by rullmann

This will replace the plastic ignitor button on a Weber grill.
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
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Well I’ll be dipped! I had searched and searched and hadn’t come up with anything. Think I’ll have to give this a go! If it’s open I can tweak it if need be.

Color has been an issue. I’m a stickler and if it doesn’t match, I’m not happy. Basically been convinced to paint to match.

Thanks!
 
DanHoo said:
Tim. I can send you a set for postage. A 3d option would be great. I'm slammed this week but let me know. I should have an extra buried in my garage.
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Awesome Dan! I’ll keep you in mind, I’ll try to print the one linked above and see how it works out. I’m a stickler on stuff like this so if it’s not near-exact to factory, I’ll give it a go.

Much appreciated
 
TimA said:
Well I’ll be dipped! I had searched and searched and hadn’t come up with anything. Think I’ll have to give this a go! If it’s open I can tweak it if need be.

Color has been an issue. I’m a stickler and if it doesn’t match, I’m not happy. Basically been convinced to paint to match.

Thanks!
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Yes, I stumbled across that one while looking for something else, and it's from 2011, so good chance it's for our grills. There's a few potential issues that I see...maybe yes, maybe not. I don't think PLA would be a good choice because of the heat...it gets hot there on the control panel. Are you going to use PLA?

Stickler? Everybody wants black!
 
Mild resistance to heat should be all that is necessary. It is a ways from the cook box and unless there is a nuclear meltdown in the cook box, it shouldn't get too hot at the switch location. But, the more heat resistance, the better, I guess.
 
Bruce said:
Mild resistance to heat should be all that is necessary. It is a ways from the cook box and unless there is a nuclear meltdown in the cook box, it shouldn't get too hot at the switch location. But, the more heat resistance, the better, I guess.
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It's not that, Bruce, it's that PLA softens at such a low temperature. Many times, like today, I printed a stone holder for a knife sharpener and it fits too tight...I just heat it up a bit with a heat gun and use the stone to stretch it into place.
 
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The other concern is that there is a thing called PLA annealing that makes it stronger and is also done at relatively low temperature...but annealing PLA causes it to shrink, so there is that, too. If I were going to do it, I would do it with PETG, but PETG is similar to what milk jugs are made of and doesn't paint well. PLA is a rigid plastic, PETG is flexible, There are new filaments coming out nearly every month and I haven't tried any of the new ones.
 
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The 3D printing thing is something I would love to mess around with, but I refrain from getting into it as I know it would cost me way too much money.
 
I printed some plugs for a SCUBA diving regulator for a friend while I was working
Bruce said:
The 3D printing thing is something I would love to mess around with, but I refrain from getting into it as I know it would cost me way too much money.
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It's not an expensive hobby, really. No hobby is cheap. It's not as expensive as R/C airplanes or helicopters or computers or building a hobby CNC, just ask my wife.

I would love to see you do it, I really would.
 
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