Anybody ever heard of brown durawood?


 
So what you are saying is that the ultra won't stick to the flat? I'll have to think about that one because I think I've done it before.
I am not saying it will not stick, I just don't recommend it. I am not sure what agent Rust-oleum uses in their high-heat paint to make it dry-flat, I want every layer to have maximum strength for durability.

I have sprayed hundreds of gallons of automotive, or aircraft urethanes, and after primer, you stay with a gloss 100% as they have higher mil thickness to wet sand than flat finishes.

I use General Finishes for my custom cabinets and the white oak slats for my Weber, and stay Semi-gloss on all 3 coats due to build thickness. With my nail strips I was able to flip and spray 3 coats sanded between on 40+ slats both sides in 1 day.

Just sharing my recommendations of not mixing sheens with high-heat paint, but you will be fine.
 
Just sharing my recommendations of not mixing sheens with high-heat paint, but you will be fine.
Trust me, I appreciate your input which is half the reason why I post up on all the different stages of my restoration. I try to do a thorough job but I'm not doing these grills in the numbers that others do so I still learn something every time. My thought was that the regular hi heat paint would serve as a primer coat for the ultra. I still might leave it flat anyway since the original finish wasn't super shiny to begin with, as I remember it anyway.
 
I've been using Krylon High Heat Max on some of my current restorations with what I feel like is pretty good results. Have any of you experimented with different brands of high temp paint and have a favorite?
 
I've been using Krylon High Heat Max on some of my current restorations with what I feel like is pretty good results. Has any of you experimented with different brands of high temp paint and have a favorite?
I've heard good things about the krylon, but use Rust-Oleum because that's what they sell at my local Home Depot. I do like the results from Rust-Oleum though.
 
Perfect, thank you.
I usually use Rust-Oleum on other regular types of projects and always get good results. I just remembered I did buy some Rust-Oleum high heat ceramic coating 2000 °F but I haven't tried it.
 
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I am not saying it will not stick, I just don't recommend it. I am not sure what agent Rust-oleum uses in their high-heat paint to make it dry-flat, I want every layer to have maximum strength for durability.

I have sprayed hundreds of gallons of automotive, or aircraft urethanes, and after primer, you stay with a gloss 100% as they have higher mil thickness to wet sand than flat finishes.

I use General Finishes for my custom cabinets and the white oak slats for my Weber, and stay Semi-gloss on all 3 coats due to build thickness. With my nail strips I was able to flip and spray 3 coats sanded between on 40+ slats both sides in 1 day.

Just sharing my recommendations of not mixing sheens with high-heat paint, but you will be fine.
I would be interested to read the product sheets on these and see if there is a difference in UV protection/resistance between the flat, satin, semi-gloss and gloss finishes.
 
What’s the common practice you guys use to do the badges? My thoughts would be to media blast them, the block sand to smooth out the border, kettle and Weber. Paint with high temp paint and then block sand again. Is that what you guys do?
 
What’s the common practice you guys use to do the badges? My thoughts would be to media blast them, the block sand to smooth out the border, kettle and Weber. Paint with high temp paint and then block sand again. Is that what you guys do?
I clean the badge with brake cleaner. Spray it with Rust-Oleum hi heat ultra paint. Let dry for awhile and sand face down on sandpaper on a flat board. I used 120 grit sandpaper and finished it with 400 grit to polish it out. I may also clear coat it in a couple days after the black paint cures.
 
Just tell the wife you wanted to decorate her broom handles.
Both of those are garage things, no big deal. I came up with that so I could paint each section individually and then easily flip it over to do the other side. When I'm done I leave the top side down so no dust or bugs end up on it.
 

 

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