Anybody ever heard of brown durawood?


 
DannyGarcia said:
But maybe Steve has a better idea for a jig...
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I'm working on it, I cut these to 7/16 on my table saw, used an old MDF shelf. The spacers are snug in some gaps, a little loose in others. I think that just shows they weren't perfect to begin with. I think I'm also going to need to make a frame out of a 2X4 to keep everything square along with the spacers. I'll also need two spacers for the first/last slat that are not as thick.
 
Steve Hoch said:
I'll also need two spacers for the first/last slat that are not as thick.
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Well for the ends, its gotta be 7/32 so when the 2 come together you get a 7/16 space. So if you make a 2x4 frame make it an extra 7/16 wide in total so you get 7/32 on each side.

Or you can just space all the slats with the scrap your ripping and eyeball the ends to get it even.

Or, lay out all 12 or 18 slats with the spacers and then butt up the z bars end to end in the center and lay the zbars on top and mark your holes.
 
DannyGarcia said:
So rhe gap between the two is 5/16 ? I mean looks even anyway your talking an ~8th of an inch

Ok when will you have the 9 slat jig ready ahahahaaaa
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Hahaha is right, I don't need a 9 slat jig. You're more than welcome to use this one if it's needed. It took me about an hour to make and only about ten minutes to make the table.
 
If the slats are 1.5" wide then the spacing is 5/16" if you want a small space on the ends. I don't know what is authentic since I am on the 3rd set of wood after 28 years. I preferred a small space on both ends about 1/8". Last time I made them flush, and this time I liked the space because I could do the same thing on bottom tray so the center gap is exactly the same spacing as 9 slats

3/8" Hex nuts made great spacers since they are 5/16. On the bottom tray of my Genesis 2000, I used 3/8 Nut and 2 pennies with the jig on my table. These are RCPlaner Z-metals I had powder coated for this rebuild. Wood was run through planer so all exactly at 1.5" so no variation in boards

This 3-minute jig kept slats square and spacing consistent on all 5 tables. I drilled pilot holes and used stainless pan head screws from the last rebuild on this grill 8 years ago. 20 minutes in Ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green and the screws looked bright and new.



Table jig.jpg
 
Fine work, I did my first restoration with zbars from Rcplanebuyer but did not have them powder coated even though I had the cook box and lid end caps done. I kind of liked the contrast. On this build I'm using brand new factory zbars for the bottom tables with Weber prototype brown durawood. The jig I made today spaces the slats out pretty much perfect for my money. Here's a pic of my first effort.IMG_20230921_061219257.jpg
 
Yes, that is a nice contrast with the wood. I hate my SS kitchen, and I grill 3 days a week and did not want another delicate thing to clean. I went back on forth on the hardware and painted the SS bolts and screws black, so they just blend it like stock.
I used White Oak, what did you make your slats out of, like the color?

Were the original slats flush with the ends of the z-metals?
This forum has helped me get ideas on classic restoration vs slightly hot-rodded, as I have no access to see what they look like in the wild.

I created another post to see if anyone has the artwork for the S/N decals, while I wait to see if Joel Young can find the files. The decal is the last piece I need to wrap up this 3rd and final rebuild on my grill

All tables.jpg
 
Yes, the slats are supposed to be flush with the zbars. Your slats are very attractive, I like them. The ones I made were mahogany, which I also find very good looking. I also made a matching handle.Screenshot_20230918-232252.png
 
Mark-Anaheim said:
If the slats are 1.5" wide then the spacing is 5/16" if you want a small space on the ends. I don't know what is authentic since I am on the 3rd set of wood after 28 years. I preferred a small space on both ends about 1/8". Last time I made them flush, and this time I liked the space because I could do the same thing on bottom tray so the center gap is exactly the same spacing as 9 slats

3/8" Hex nuts made great spacers since they are 5/16. On the bottom tray of my Genesis 2000, I used 3/8 Nut and 2 pennies with the jig on my table. These are RCPlaner Z-metals I had powder coated for this rebuild. Wood was run through planer so all exactly at 1.5" so no variation in boards

This 3-minute jig kept slats square and spacing consistent on all 5 tables. I drilled pilot holes and used stainless pan head screws from the last rebuild on this grill 8 years ago. 20 minutes in Ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green and the screws looked bright and new.



View attachment 92674
Click to expand...

Interesting that you went with a 5/16 space. As Steve was working on his, I measured a table that has the original slats and I came up with 7/16 space and this also left a gap on the ends. Since the top shelf is smaller, that same space left my slats flush on each end. I think Steve came up with that same 7/16 gap.

I like the idea of using a hex nut, I wonder if a larger size would give you a 7/16 space so you could choose what works for you. Steve cut some scrap wood that worked for him and I thought maybe a 7/16 dowel rod would work.

Also, what makes this all odd is that I went and measured slat thickness since you said you size yours perfectly to 1.5 inches. I measured a durawood, an original grey wood thats in very good shape and my replacement cedar that im using to make new slats and they are all 1 and 9/16 wide. I kinda thought mine would be a hair under and that would have explained the difference in spacing but now I have no idea ....

Anyway I think the point is to have all the spacing even and have that gap between the 2 shelves match that spacing as well.
 
DannyGarcia said:
Interesting that you went with a 5/16 space. As Steve was working on his, I measured a table that has the original slats and I came up with 7/16 space and this also left a gap on the ends. Since the top shelf is smaller, that same space left my slats flush on each end. I think Steve came up with that same 7/16 gap.

I like the idea of using a hex nut, I wonder if a larger size would give you a 7/16 space so you could choose what works for you. Steve cut some scrap wood that worked for him and I thought maybe a 7/16 dowel rod would work.

Also, what makes this all odd is that I went and measured slat thickness since you said you size yours perfectly to 1.5 inches. I measured a durawood, an original grey wood thats in very good shape and my replacement cedar that im using to make new slats and they are all 1 and 9/16 wide. I kinda thought mine would be a hair under and that would have explained the difference in spacing but now I have no idea ....

Anyway I think the point is to have all the spacing even and have that gap between the 2 shelves match that spacing as well.
Click to expand...
 
I don't have access to another grill, so made a decision that Weber probably used 1.5" wood a standard.
Not knowing if RCPlaner was still making Z-metals, I created a 3D Cad drawing for the Z-metals and wood slats for my grill as was going to have fabricated at local metal shop. Fortunately, he responded and got all new SS Z-metals, fold up table brackets and last week had him make SS drip tray rails.

Since my brother has a very high-end personal woodshop, with digital readouts on table saw and planer, I could hold very tight tolerances and make each slat exactly 1.5" after finishing sanding. Wanted a harder wood and white oak has very tight grain structure to not absorb water. I ripped these from 1x6 and surfaced all 4 sides.

What is the best way to share PDF files on this forum?



Weber tables 1.jpgWeber tables 2.jpgWeber tables 3.jpg
 
Mark-Anaheim said:
I don't have access to another grill, so made a decision that Weber probably used 1.5" wood a standard.
Not knowing if RCPlaner was still making Z-metals, I created a 3D Cad drawing for the Z-metals and wood slats for my grill as was going to have fabricated at local metal shop. Fortunately, he responded and got all new SS Z-metals, fold up table brackets and last week had him make SS drip tray rails.

Since my brother has a very high-end personal woodshop, with digital readouts on table saw and planer, I could hold very tight tolerances and make each slat exactly 1.5" after finishing sanding. Wanted a harder wood and white oak has very tight grain structure to not absorb water. I ripped these from 1x6 and surfaced all 4 sides.

What is the best way to share PDF files on this forum?



View attachment 92694View attachment 92695View attachment 92696
Click to expand...
During assembly last week, I think the spacing on the bottom trays became 7/16" to get a uniform gap across all the slats and where the (2) Z-metals touch in the center.
 
DannyGarcia said:
Interesting that you went with a 5/16 space. As Steve was working on his, I measured a table that has the original slats and I came up with 7/16 space and this also left a gap on the ends. Since the top shelf is smaller, that same space left my slats flush on each end. I think Steve came up with that same 7/16 gap.

I like the idea of using a hex nut, I wonder if a larger size would give you a 7/16 space so you could choose what works for you. Steve cut some scrap wood that worked for him and I thought maybe a 7/16 dowel rod would work.

Also, what makes this all odd is that I went and measured slat thickness since you said you size yours perfectly to 1.5 inches. I measured a durawood, an original grey wood thats in very good shape and my replacement cedar that im using to make new slats and they are all 1 and 9/16 wide. I kinda thought mine would be a hair under and that would have explained the difference in spacing but now I have no idea ....

Anyway, I think the point is to have all the spacing even and have that gap between the 2 shelves match that spacing as well.
Click to expand...
Just math, measure the width of all 6 slats, subtract from Z-metal length, then divide by 5 if you want flush. Then take your calipers and find something to use for spacers.

3/8" nuts measured 0.323 which is just over 5/16 and worked for me. For Bottom tables I added (2) pennies to the 3/8" got me around the 7/16". I had a bag of change I was taking to Coinstar, and grabbed a couple of pennies which were just under 1/16" + 3/8 hex nuts was my 7/16

Bolt Depot shows 1/2-13 nuts to be 7/16" thick.
As you mentioned the goal is just to keep the spacing uniform, so depending on your slat width adjust the spacer.
 
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