Another Genesis 1000 rehab, FB marketplace find for free

[Steve Hoch]

Not everybody bothers with the manifold because you can't see it but I think it's important to get all the rust off them and repaint to extend their life. You can see in the pictures of one I did that there was quite a bit of rust on the arms that bolt to the cookbox. I also spent a few minutes cleaning up the valves, why not?

 

[Jeffrey W]

Looks great. what did you use to get the valves so shiny? I just had a bit of surface rust on the main bar Supporting the valves I was painting the firebox, endcaps, and scale today so I figured why not treat that light rust on the manifold. Hopefully I could get the frame done before the weekend and have a working grill.

I realized today that I don’t have one of the z bars for the swing table as the previous owner replaced the slats with solid wood boards and didn’t keep z bar. I also live in Vermont which makes tracking down stainless steel fasteners locally a problem. I may have to order a bunch, But I also got 2 cedar 1x2 boards for free today because there was no price sticker on them and the guy at the register didn’t feel like looking it up (A very Vermont moment)

 

[Steve Hoch]

I just put a 2" wire wheel in my drill and lightly went all around the valves until they were shiny. Just don't be too aggressive or you will chew up the valve a little bit and it won't look so hot. I wouldn't sweat the stainless steel hardware too much, most of what I take out is still very usable with just a little cleaning and paint. I would still think there has to be a hardware store near you that carries it though. Ace, Tru value, home depot? I have purchased stainless steel z bars from rcplanebuyer before. They are identical to factory, except stainless.

 

[Jeffrey W]

I just put a 2" wire wheel in my drill and lightly went all around the valves until they were shiny. Just don't be too aggressive or you will chew up the valve a little bit and it won't look so hot. I wouldn't sweat the stainless steel hardware too much, most of what I take out is still very usable with just a little cleaning and paint. I would still think there has to be a hardware store near you that carries it though. Ace, Tru value, home depot? I have purchased stainless steel z bars from rcplanebuyer before. They are identical to factory, except stainless.

I’ll give it a shot when I use the wire wheel to get some rust off the frame. We have one Home Depot and two Lowe’s. And a handful of smaller stores. The problem is just that stock is always so low. Speaking of which I can’t find high heat primer anywhere either, so I’d have to order it. However I can get VHT flame resistant primer at Autozone. It’s a ceramic silicone base. i wonder if it would work just as well as the rustoleum on the rust spots on the frame. Or could I just use the rust converter covered up by a couple of layers of high heat paint? I‘m thinking specifically on the cross bar by the firebox.

 

[Steve Hoch]

I just was looking for high heat clear coat at Home Depot because I like to use it on the lid emblem when I'm done with it. It really gives it a nice look and protects the bare aluminum. I couldn't find it though and would have had to order it. As far as your frame goes, just do what you think is best. I don't think it's absolutely necessary to use a high heat primer on the entire frame, especially since some of this paint is $15 a can now.

 

[Bruce]

No, The only part of the frame that needs high heat is where the cook box is adjacent to it. Basically the left cross member and the part along the back and the front of the cook box.

 

[Jeffrey W]

No, The only part of the frame that needs high heat is where the cook box is adjacent to it. Basically the left cross member and the part along the back and the front of the cook box.

Yeah, I was just really talking about the rust spots on that cross bar by the cook box.. After cleaning it, would it be ok to use the regular rust converter covered by high heat paint.

 

[Steve Hoch]

Yeah, I was just really talking about the rust spots on that cross bar by the cook box.. After cleaning it, would it be ok to use the regular rust converter covered by high heat paint.

I don't know, that might be pushing it on that stuff. I'm not saying for sure it won't be OK, I just don't feel super confident that it will hold up.

 

[Richard in NS]

Looks great. what did you use to get the valves so shiny? I just had a bit of surface rust on the main bar Supporting the valves I was painting the firebox, endcaps, and scale today so I figured why not treat that light rust on the manifold. Hopefully I could get the frame done before the weekend and have a working grill.

I realized today that I don’t have one of the z bars for the swing table as the previous owner replaced the slats with solid wood boards and didn’t keep z bar. I also live in Vermont which makes tracking down stainless steel fasteners locally a problem. I may have to order a bunch, But I also got 2 cedar 1x2 boards for free today because there was no price sticker on them and the guy at the register didn’t feel like looking it up (A very Vermont moment)

Jeffrey, another option is to use a Dremel with a wire wheel in it, if you have one, to clean up the valves. It will take longer but you don’t have to worry about chewing them up by getting too aggressive. Steve’s method works well though but I am not as good as he is at controlling it.

 

[Jeffrey W]

used the dremel to clean up the manifold valves using the wire brush wheel. not as nice as Steves’s, but I’m happy. I am curious what would be a good replacement for the thumb screw bolts that were used to attach the manifold. I only have non stainless ones.

I bought these plastic inserts from Home Depot which fit perfectly into the squares to attach the control panel. still need to screw it in though.

 

[Bruce]

Kinda expensive, but had never found a source for those before. Nice.

 

[Steve Hoch]

used the dremel to clean up the manifold valves using the wire brush wheel. not as nice as Steves’s, but I’m happy. I am curious what would be a good replacement for the thumb screw bolts that were used to attach the manifold. I only have non stainless ones.

I bought these plastic inserts from Home Depot which fit perfectly into the squares to attach the control panel. still need to screw it in though.

View attachment 58504

Still a lot cheaper than this:

 

[Steve Hoch]

I think these are pretty close to the Weber ones, but stainless.

 

[Jeffrey W]

I think these are pretty close to the Weber ones, but stainless. View attachment 58511

Looks like the one, thanks. If I wanted to just get something local, like a stainless steel bolt, nut and washer would the threaded holes make that difficult? If so would a 1/4 inch drill bit clear out the threads and not cause any damage to the cook box?

 

[Bruce]

Yah, I don't see why you couldn't simply ream out the hole and use a nut and bolt like the newer grills use. But you could probably just use a nut and bolt and leave the threads in the cook box.

 

[Steve Hoch]

Yah, I don't see why you couldn't simply ream out the hole and use a nut and bolt like the newer grills use. But you could probably just use a nut and bolt and leave the threads in the cook box.

You could probably just screw a bolt though the cookbox in the other direction and use a wingnut like my grill has.

 

[Jeffrey W]

You could probably just screw a bolt though the cookbox in the other direction and use a wingnut like my grill has

yeah, that sounds perfect, thanks!

 

[LMichaels]

yeah, that sounds perfect, thanks!

It's how I handle it

 

[Jeffrey W]

You could probably just screw a bolt though the cookbox in the other direction and use a wingnut like my grill has.

You could probably just screw a bolt though the cookbox in the other direction and use a wingnut like my grill has.

Do you use a washer under the bolt head or just the bolt and wing nut?

 

[DanHoo]

I use a SS washer inside and outside. Inside as it spreads the load across a larger area. Outside as it makes a smoother surface for the wing nut or hex nut.