3D printing an old part


 
Oops...I think we miscommunicated. FDM is fused deposition modeling, which uses filament and melts and applies it, layer by layer. SLA is resin printing that uses a UV laser in a tank of resin...the laser causes the resin to solidify. You might be confusing SLA with the type of filaments that are used with FDM printing, such as PLA. I know very little about SLA printing so I can't help you there.

Generally, the weakest part of an FDM print is the bonding between layers. Take a close look and see if it is separating along the layer lines. Thinner layers increase the potential number of failure points, but there is a sweet spot where layer separation is minimized. You can experiment with the layer thickness, somewhere around 0.24mm or even 0.28mm works well for me, but that's dependent on the printer. The other thing is, if you are using PLA, try a more flexible material like PETG. If you have an enclosed printer, there is also ABS or even ASA. ASA has exceptional UV resistance and is preferred for outdoor printed projects, but like all materials it has a learning curve.

There are also slicers that support varying layer thicknesses, so different parts of the print can be printed thicker or thinner as desired. Assuming you are separating along the layer lines, that is.
 
I printed my whiewalls out of PETG years ago and they have held up well, but we don't have the types of weather you guys up north see so YMMV.
 
This is a very interesting thread!! I’m very impressed at what Steve has been able to produce. I really have no real idea about how 3D printing works but I am curious to know if anyone has attempted to print the plastic insert that goes into the bottom of the frame rail and accepts the pin for the swivel casters?
 
Yeah, in the hands of someone who understands them and knows how to work with them, some amazing things can be done
 
SStratton said:
This is a very interesting thread!! I’m very impressed at what Steve has been able to produce. I really have no real idea about how 3D printing works but I am curious to know if anyone has attempted to print the plastic insert that goes into the bottom of the frame rail and accepts the pin for the swivel casters?
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I haven't, but it could be done.
 
SStratton said:
This is a very interesting thread!! I’m very impressed at what Steve has been able to produce. I really have no real idea about how 3D printing works but I am curious to know if anyone has attempted to print the plastic insert that goes into the bottom of the frame rail and accepts the pin for the swivel casters?
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Suggestion: it's usually more cost effective and a better choice if you can still buy a replacement or better yet, the OEM part. I am not sure if this is the correct replacement for your use case, but the newer caster insert has drain holes where the original did not.

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Ed P said:
Suggestion: it's usually more cost effective and a better choice if you can still buy a replacement or better yet, the OEM part. I am not sure if this is the correct replacement for your use case, but the newer caster insert has drain holes where the original did not.

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Thanks for the advice Ed. My question stems from my 2000 Genesis Gold that has what I’ve seen referenced as a “fat frame” and I haven’t seen anything available as a replacement option for this grill.
 

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SStratton said:
Thanks for the advice Ed. My question stems from my 2000 Genesis Gold that has what I’ve seen referenced as a “fat frame” and I haven’t seen anything available as a replacement option for this grill.
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Likely old gen 1 Summit parts could X Reference
 
I have a long shot idea but do you have the dimensions of the fat frame?

I am currently working on one of my twin flips Genesis ii and I was wondering if the frame size was the same or close to a "Fat Frame" Genesis.

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I am thinking that would work, but I don't have time to measure one of my fat frames right now. Maybe tonight or over the weekend.

That generation Platinum inserts are also identical to the ones on the first-generation Summit as Larry mentioned.
 
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