3D printing an old part
- Thread starter Steve Hoch
- Start date
Cody Bratton
TVWBB Guru
I kinda like the texture, to be honest.
Ed P
TVWBB Honor Circle
Oops...I think we miscommunicated. FDM is fused deposition modeling, which uses filament and melts and applies it, layer by layer. SLA is resin printing that uses a UV laser in a tank of resin...the laser causes the resin to solidify. You might be confusing SLA with the type of filaments that are used with FDM printing, such as PLA. I know very little about SLA printing so I can't help you there.
Generally, the weakest part of an FDM print is the bonding between layers. Take a close look and see if it is separating along the layer lines. Thinner layers increase the potential number of failure points, but there is a sweet spot where layer separation is minimized. You can experiment with the layer thickness, somewhere around 0.24mm or even 0.28mm works well for me, but that's dependent on the printer. The other thing is, if you are using PLA, try a more flexible material like PETG. If you have an enclosed printer, there is also ABS or even ASA. ASA has exceptional UV resistance and is preferred for outdoor printed projects, but like all materials it has a learning curve.
There are also slicers that support varying layer thicknesses, so different parts of the print can be printed thicker or thinner as desired. Assuming you are separating along the layer lines, that is.
Generally, the weakest part of an FDM print is the bonding between layers. Take a close look and see if it is separating along the layer lines. Thinner layers increase the potential number of failure points, but there is a sweet spot where layer separation is minimized. You can experiment with the layer thickness, somewhere around 0.24mm or even 0.28mm works well for me, but that's dependent on the printer. The other thing is, if you are using PLA, try a more flexible material like PETG. If you have an enclosed printer, there is also ABS or even ASA. ASA has exceptional UV resistance and is preferred for outdoor printed projects, but like all materials it has a learning curve.
There are also slicers that support varying layer thicknesses, so different parts of the print can be printed thicker or thinner as desired. Assuming you are separating along the layer lines, that is.
Steve Hoch
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Nice weather here today at almost 50° so I decided to take down my Christmas decorations. I also popped one of my wheel inserts on my outside grill to see how it survives the rest of winter.
Paul Warner
TVWBB Pro
Looks fantastic Steve, well done
Josh Dekubber
TVWBB Honor Circle
Nice Work Steve! I hope it meets your expectations. Can't wait to see more items from you.
SStratton
New member
This is a very interesting thread!! I’m very impressed at what Steve has been able to produce. I really have no real idea about how 3D printing works but I am curious to know if anyone has attempted to print the plastic insert that goes into the bottom of the frame rail and accepts the pin for the swivel casters?
Steve Hoch
TVWBB Hall of Fame
I haven't, but it could be done.
Ed P
TVWBB Honor Circle
Suggestion: it's usually more cost effective and a better choice if you can still buy a replacement or better yet, the OEM part. I am not sure if this is the correct replacement for your use case, but the newer caster insert has drain holes where the original did not.
