2001 Silver C rehab/ how to ( or how not to) dye plastic grill parts


 
What fantastic work you did on that I love the white axle caps doing an 1100 restore for a friend of mine might steal your idea. Been looking for a Blue Lid for years turning 67 in October hope I live long enough to find one. Must have been a regional thing on the lid maybe seen one down in ATL once actually think it was in Nashville gone in one day and I would have driven the 8 hour round trip to get it.
 
Rick W said:
Here is the finished fully assembled product!View attachment 9467

Black end caps look great and go well with the black frame.View attachment 9468

restored wheels

the handleView attachment 9472
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Rick,

That is a beautiful maroon restore. The black really sets it off - much better than if those parts were gray. Maybe do the knobs and switches, too? Wheels also look great, although I wouldn't be afraid to just spray paint them.
 
That Silver C looks a lot like the C that I am working on now. Mine will have black knobs however. BUt, mine is even going to have a brown hood.....oh, but mine will have a cabinet as well.
 
Jon Tofte said:
Rick,

That is a beautiful maroon restore. The black really sets it off - much better than if those parts were gray. Maybe do the knobs and switches, too? Wheels also look great, although I wouldn't be afraid to just spray paint them.
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Actually, the wheels are spray painted. I did them before the dye experiment.
 
Ed Pinnell said:
Awesome! Thanks so much, Bruce! And you darn well better survive...we need your expertise!
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I can attest that Durawood does NOT take the dye very well at all. I tried about 15 pieces last night for a half hour. It made them darker gray is all. Certainly not black. I also did a Silver B grill handle and some knobs and two end handles and they all came out very black. But not the Durawood.
 
Bruce said:
I can attest that Durawood does NOT take the dye very well at all. I tried about 15 pieces last night for a half hour. It made them darker gray is all. Certainly not black. I also did a Silver B grill handle and some knobs and two end handles and they all came out very black. But not the Durawood.
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Bruce,
Thank you for taking that on. I was really hoping for a way to make black durawood. I guess the durawood material has characteristics that make it less susceptible to dyeing. Looks like I will have to think more about my Skyline 2.0 idea.
 
Yah, I believe so unless you want to use a heavier Dye ratio and maybe let it soak much longer.
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Rick, I agree with Bruce no way that handle gets that hot your idea to me is a great one. I have done three sets of wheels and inserts with paint and regular clear never had a problem. I used the high heat clear on the emblem no issues but that was metal. It was something to do with that plastic used on the end caps, handle and knobs at least that is my theory where the paint and the clear collided one or the other never really hardened. You avoided the paint it would be great if that solves the problem with the high heat clear over the dye.

You need to keep the thread updated when you get the grill in service if your using a cover taking that on and off you should see what kind of wear you get if any fairly quickly. I basically did not get 2 weeks out of it but that project was cursed from the start.

I can see it now people here pulling their turkey fryers out of the garage and using them for dye machines for their restores. :cool:
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So, it has been almost a month since I did the restoratation on my Silver C. I did the dye technique on the gray plastic end caps and handle and really like them being black. The end caps were treated with a ceramic clear coat product, Cerakote. No problems so far and they look great and have really maintained a nice gloss appearance .
Brian, I did have some problems with my handle. As you remember, I was hesitant to apply the clear coat to the handle, so I put on a couple coats of the high heat clear gloss. I had some minor problems with the handle sticking to the grill cover on hot days, as Brian alluded to in his post. Nothing bad but still annoying.
I took off the handle, cleaned it with acetone, and redid the black dye, I also did the knobs and rocker switches in black using the Rit dyemore and they turned out nice.
For the handle, I applied the ceramic clear coat, same as the end caps and it looks great. I am hoping that it stands up to the cover and the grill heat better than the High heat clear coat.
I will update later if any further problems.IMG_1239.JPG

I dyed the rocker switch bracket a maroon color to match the lid.
IMG_1243.JPG

IMG_1244.JPG
 
Jason in CA said:
I really like the maroon accents around the switches. It really adds a nice touch to the control panel IMO.
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Thanks Jason,
I went overboard with the dye thing and thought that adding an accent color to the brackets would make the black rocker switches stand out even more.
 
I p
Bruce said:
Rick: Did you say you put a top coat on the black parts after dying them?
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I put a coat of the ceramic clear coat, Cerakote, on the handle only this time. It gives it a nice gloss look which I am hoping can stand up to the heat and the cover. Not on the knobs or the switches though. On those I put a coat of 303 automotive protectant for the UV benefits.
 
Rick I was waiting for your input on how that clear lasted on the handle sounds like you had the same experience that I did it basically does not work. Maybe the makeup of the material used for the handle and end caps still IMO the stuff just will never hold up to a grill cover almost seems it never hardens.

But that ceramic clear coat if I understand you seems to be fine. Are the knobs holding up on the side burner that cover would rub there quite a bit. I have painted knobs on a 1000 and an a 1100. No clear the 1000 for 2 years no issues but the grill cover does not really rub on them if you know what I mean 1100 we will see that was for a friend.
 
Wow what a nice grill! I’m digging the black dye technique. Might have to try it out. I wonder if the side tables could be dyed?
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Rick I was waiting for your input on how that clear lasted on the handle sounds like you had the same experience that I did it basically does not work. Maybe the makeup of the material used for the handle and end caps still IMO the stuff just will never hold up to a grill cover almost seems it never hardens.

But that ceramic clear coat if I understand you seems to be fine. Are the knobs holding up on the side burner that cover would rub there quite a bit. I have painted knobs on a 1000 and an a 1100. No clear the 1000 for 2 years no issues but the grill cover does not really rub on them if you know what I mean 1100 we will see that was for a friend.
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I think that the problem was with the High Heat clear gloss spray that I put on the handle. I got some of that stickiness that you described. For some reason, it seems that it never really cured on the plastic handle? The side end caps which I dyed black were originally coated with the ceramic clear coat that I have referenced. They held up fine with no issues regarding stickiness. Time will tell if the handle will do the same now that I have re-dyed it and applied the ceramic coating.
I just did the knobs today, Rit black dyemore, and did not put any clear coat on them, only the 303 uv protectant spray. I anticipate that they will be fine.
 
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