WSM Leaks
- Thread starter BobCef
- Start date
BobCef
TVWBB Member
I've had my WSM since 2006 so it's seen some use, and over time it does maintain temperature better even though it does leak a bit around the door and lid. What gaps buildup from use didn't fill don't seem to bother it now as far as maintaining temp. A bit of air will leak in so sometimes I can run with the vents closed without suffocating the fire. Granted for the first couple of years (used maybe a half dozen times per year, 4-12 hours per cook) it was a learning experience to keep temps reasonable. I hope I never have to break in another one, although I think I've picked up a few tricks to help with that too.
Agreed that sometimes Weber parts to need a bit of working to get them round again. A bit of hugging and shaping doesn't hurt. Good luck!
Agreed that sometimes Weber parts to need a bit of working to get them round again. A bit of hugging and shaping doesn't hurt. Good luck!
Bill Elwell
TVWBB Pro
I installed a gasket kit on my WSM a couple of weeks ago (1 day before my last smoke session). I cleaned smoke residue off using Dawn and a scrub pad. I also added gasket to the inside of the barrel where the door contacts it at the bottom of the door. The only leak(s) I have now are a small dime-sized slits at the bottom of the door. I really wish I had modded this a couple of years ago.
The reason I went with the gasket is because I also use the BBQ Guru DigiQ system. The work great together. I've basically turned it into a "set and forget" system since I only cook to temp.
The DigiQ system is an upgrade to my Maverick ET-733 system, which also works great. The DigiQ works like the Maverick (monitors 1 meat and 1 dome/grate temp), but using them together the Maverick can now monitor 2 meats instead of 1.
The reason I went with the gasket is because I also use the BBQ Guru DigiQ system. The work great together. I've basically turned it into a "set and forget" system since I only cook to temp.
The DigiQ system is an upgrade to my Maverick ET-733 system, which also works great. The DigiQ works like the Maverick (monitors 1 meat and 1 dome/grate temp), but using them together the Maverick can now monitor 2 meats instead of 1.
bob, good day!
since you ordered a seal kit, well, looks like you'll be sealing those seams soon, walah, leaks gone! cool! i'm with Tim K, usage sealed my WSM's very tight! catch is, the more you use it the more cleaning there will be for the adhesive... along with Tim, i also agree with Andrew, some easy hand bending of the factory door will help there as well. it is funny that weber put the metal rolling edges as they did, yet they are reversed which allows rain, over night dew and melting snow into the base and that the door was not constructed of a stiffer aluminum or the same gauge metal as the unit... as they say, oh well! good luck, you got it covered Sir.
since you ordered a seal kit, well, looks like you'll be sealing those seams soon, walah, leaks gone! cool! i'm with Tim K, usage sealed my WSM's very tight! catch is, the more you use it the more cleaning there will be for the adhesive... along with Tim, i also agree with Andrew, some easy hand bending of the factory door will help there as well. it is funny that weber put the metal rolling edges as they did, yet they are reversed which allows rain, over night dew and melting snow into the base and that the door was not constructed of a stiffer aluminum or the same gauge metal as the unit... as they say, oh well! good luck, you got it covered Sir.
Richard Garcia
TVWBB Wizard
What steps did you take in knowing that your WSM is not out-of-round?
Larry D.
TVWBB Emerald Member
I measured across the diameter in several directions. If it's out of round you will find one diameter that is the largest (and the smallest diameter will probably be perpendicular to it). Gently pushing inward on the largest diameter - the "bear hug" - will shorten it and probably lengthen the smallest diameter. Go slowly, and measure frequently until the diameters, measured at several points, are equal or as close to equal as you can achieve. Do the same with the lid and base, if necessary. You could also put whichever section you are checking on a large sheet of paper and trace around it. Then rotate the section and compare it to the traced outline. If it is perfectly round (highly unlikely) there would be no gaps between the outline and the actual object.
When you finish you should be able to put the lid onto the middle section (and the middle section onto the base) and see little or no difference in fit no matter how the sections are rotated in relation to one another.