Weber Performer Deluxe “Burner Tube” Cleaning


 
Richard Garcia

Richard Garcia

TVWBB Wizard
I plan on turning my WPD on it’s side in order to access the burner tube, however, is there a better way in doing this?
 

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Pat has got it right noting fancy, if you have the Weber tool like in the diagram, just remove the gas hose by taking off the C clip and then run the tool in and out of the burner tube taking it all the way out to see how much junk is on the tool. If you a air compressor you can blow out the tube from inside the Kettle out . If no air source you can use a shop vac. then reassemble and cook your next meal. Enjoy.
 
I remove the C-clamp, then remove gas hose but I don’t bother with any other disassembly. I don’t have an air compressor so I scrape biggest gunk out of flame tube with the included Weber wire tool and then just spray water in tube using a garden hose. Just make sure you let it dry throughly to prevent rusting.
 
I removed the screws that secure the table to the frame. Then lifted the table off the frame and that gave me direct access. Pulled the clip and pulled the gas line out of the tube. Used a tube-shaped wire brush and canned air to clean the tube and a brass brush to clean the deposits on the end of the fitting. Put it all back together. Took ten minutes. Works great.
 
Dave Mazz said:
I removed the screws that secure the table to the frame. Then lifted the table off the frame and that gave me direct access. Pulled the clip and pulled the gas line out of the tube. Used a tube-shaped wire brush and canned air to clean the tube and a brass brush to clean the deposits on the end of the fitting. Put it all back together. Took ten minutes. Works great.
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Thanx for the reply and I plan on replacing the Weber screws with stainless steel screws. What are the size of these screws or are they Weber proprietary screws?
 
Richard Garcia said:
Thanx for the reply and I plan on replacing the Weber screws with stainless steel screws. What are the size of these screws or are they Weber proprietary screws?
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Stainless works. I don't know the sizes. When I bought my Performer, I took the hardware and recorded the sizes, types, and quantities. Then went to boltdepot.com and ordered everything. I did not have any problems finding everything in stainless.
 
Just remember that the inserts are brass so if you do go the SS version you should buy some anti-seize because of dissimilar metals.
The OEM are prolly nickel plated but they have a black coating so that protects against any dissimilar corrosion.
 
Personally I don't have a problem with the OEM fasteners.
I'm on year # 2 and have no signs of rust or corrosion.
I don't use a cover but do keep it somewhat sheltered under a gazebo.
 
Richard Garcia said:
Might have a problem encountering this in Costa Rica,so, a few squirts of WD-40 into the brass inserts will suffice? Thanx for this information!
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I would think anti seize would be found in any auto parts store around the world. It’s commonly used, especially on aluminum engines. I find very little use for WD-40; it’s not good at most of the things people use it for, and people don’t use it so much for what it was designed for (water displacement). It’s actually pretty lousy as a penetrating oil or as a lubricant.
 
Dave Mazz said:
Stainless works. I don't know the sizes. When I bought my Performer, I took the hardware and recorded the sizes, types, and quantities. Then went to boltdepot.com and ordered everything. I did not have any problems finding everything in stainless.
.
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This morning I took the Weber screw to 3 hardware stores here in Ticoland in which all did not have these 1/4x1/2 screws. One store did have this screw with a measurement of 1/4x3/4 which may work? i am in no hurry and will visit more hardware stores or purchase over the internet.
 

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Dave Mazz said:
I removed the screws that secure the table to the frame. Then lifted the table off the frame and that gave me direct access. Pulled the clip and pulled the gas line out of the tube. Used a tube-shaped wire brush and canned air to clean the tube and a brass brush to clean the deposits on the end of the fitting. Put it all back together. Took ten minutes. Works great.
Click to expand...
Thanx for tip in removing the metal table. Question, what is the best way to remove the “orifice clip” to remove the hose Fitting as I don’t want to bust it if I put too munch plier pressure?
 

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