The Adapt-a-Damper - Open Source Project


 
Did you put the Alum-a-damper abs print on Thingiverse? I have a printer on its way to me and my stupid large Adapt-a blower is starting to have problems opening and closing. I'm wondering if it is the extra large rotary plate with the smaller servo, or just the servo dieing.
 
Andrew F said:
Did you put the Alum-a-damper abs print on Thingiverse? I have a printer on its way to me and my stupid large Adapt-a blower is starting to have problems opening and closing. I'm wondering if it is the extra large rotary plate with the smaller servo, or just the servo dieing.
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I had to scale the top rotating cover down in slicer & reprint because it was too thick and dragging on the case for me. Mine looked like a slow or dying servo when that happened.
 
I built one of these a couple of years ago and I love it. I only have an 18" WSM so the 6.7CFM fan works great. I am now building a HM and Adapt-A-Damper for a friend who has just ordered a 22" WSM. I see on the first page that there is a version on Thingiverse designed for a 15CFM. My question is for the guys who have a 22", is the original spec Delta fan (6.7CFM) good enough or do you find yourself needing a bigger fan?
 
That 15cmf fan is because of me, and I think I might be the only one running one. It was a blower from a different setup that I had and was more of less working. It is over kill UNLESS you really need a rippin hot fire. Normally my fan runs at less than 15-20%. The only time I max it out is at start-up and when I’m doing a spatchcock turkey for thanksgiving and I want to run at 375ish.

Nope, I’m wrong. Looks like a few people run them. Just not sure about needing it on a 22”.
 
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WBegg said:
Printed some plastic Alum-a-Dampers. HAd to spend some time getting print settings right so things fit snug. Still need to incorporate an integrated keystone jack on the print, but I really like these inserts by L-Com. Pretty good price for a 25 pack. ONe deviation from the Adapt-a-Damper is that the fan is now mounted via 4mm screws into the body.

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Hi WBegg

How can I get a Plastic Alum-a-Damper, are you still making them or can I get the files from thingiverse and get it made up locally?

Regards
Matt

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I'm printing the disc and bottom right now. When I go to slice the top of the case, it has to be scaled ~2541% to make it the same size as the bottom case. Does that seem correct?
 
I just grabbed the files from Thingiverse and can confirm that the top looks like it was saved in inches units because PrusaSlicer also complained that it was small.
 
I just printed the top and bottom (top scaled to 2540% to match the bottom), but there's something more going on here. The bottom case doesn't physically fit a Delta BFB0612H (the hole spacing seems to match a Sunon GB1205PKV1-8AY... minus the extra hole). In addition, the hole for the L-com keystone contains a design feature that doesn't work well when printing without supports; a simple rectangle would print better and create less mess while printing.
 

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RobN said:
I just printed the top and bottom (top scaled to 2540% to match the bottom), but there's something more going on here. The bottom case doesn't physically fit a Delta BFB0612H (the hole spacing seems to match a Sunon GB1205PKV1-8AY... minus the extra hole). In addition, the hole for the L-com keystone contains a design feature that doesn't work well when printing without supports; a simple rectangle would print better and create less mess while printing.
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Yes, I did accidentally export in inches, so I will replace those files on thingiverse when I get time. Regarding the fit for the Delta fan, it should fit. It's the same as the Aluminum files, and I have had no problems when I printed fitting the Delta fan.

The hole for the L-Com should work with proper supports. Doesn't use much more plastic. I could re-design to eliminate the relief holes, but again, this was designed to be machined, not 3D printed.
 
WBegg said:
Yes, I did accidentally export in inches, so I will replace those files on thingiverse when I get time. Regarding the fit for the Delta fan, it should fit. It's the same as the Aluminum files, and I have had no problems when I printed fitting the Delta fan.

The hole for the L-Com should work with proper supports. Doesn't use much more plastic. I could re-design to eliminate the relief holes, but again, this was designed to be machined, not 3D printed.
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Totally understand about the differences in CNC vs 3D printing. I honestly didn't even check the slices before sending it to the printer; even printed without supports, it's not really a big deal, since the lip around the L-com covers the layers extruded in air.

Edit:

Wow. I just got back home and looked at the mess on my desk. The issue is I'm an idiot and tried stuffing a 60x60x25mm blower (BFB0612H) in the case instead, which is why the Sunon fit correctly...

:rolleyes:
 
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The Sunon GB1205PKV1-8AY with a bit of filament manually extruded into the empty hole works perfectly. I printed the 1" NPT adapter from V2 and it was only 2mm too small, so I warmed the inside of the adapter with a barbecue lighter and press fit it onto the plastic alum-a-damper. PID: 4/0.02/7; fan: voltage, on >50%, min 10%, max 100%; servo: 1100-2130, fully open at 50%. First test run looks very promising for future cooks!

Thanks, WBegg!
 

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Any tips on how get the keystone wiring more reliable? A couple of times over the months my Adapt-a-Damper fan has stopped working and I've needed to remove the RJ-45 keystone and fiddle with the earth wire which supplies the fan motor.

They're tiny little wires - any tips? I've used the proper punchdown tool, and basically done as recommended:
www.ifixit.com

How to Wire a RJ-45 KeyStone Jack

This is a simple guide to wiring a keystone jack for use in house and business applications.
www.ifixit.com www.ifixit.com
 
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Punch down blocks are designed to work with solid core Ethernet cable and can be unreliable with stranded wire, especially if wrong gage. One way to improve connection is to use a all length of the proper solid core Ethernet wire in the punch down and then solder to fan wires. Others may have better solution.
 
I've updated the files in Thingiverse for the plastic version of the Alum-a-Damper to Millimeters. Also added the adapter file. I forgot that I had re-designed he disc also, because the damper is bigger, so I added that file as well (2-hole). Hopefully all the files are good to go now.
www.thingiverse.com

HeterMeter Damper V3 by wbegg

New design for the fan/damper. This is a plastic version of the Alum-a-damper designed after the former adapt-a-damper for the HeaterMeter bbq temp controller. Designed in are screw holes to position the fan more securely. Also, this design requires a LAN keystone screw in mount designed around...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
The link to the files is ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4852217
 
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