Silver C


 
Jon Tofte said:
Steve,

Let me give you a little advice from at least some of my own personal experience all learned the very hard way. This grill restoration hobby can be a lot of fun and very rewarding. It can also quickly turn into a big money drain (and marital discord, too!). The big lesson I am still trying to learn is to BE PATIENT! There are good deals out there; you just have to weed through and ignore others that may look good but aren't. And you have to be willing to wait. It is also true that you can buy virtually every part you need brand new. The only problem with that is by the time you are done you could have bought a perfectly restored grill for less (see some that our members have listed for sale at modest prices) or even be close to buying an all-new grill:(.

Now that you already have this decent looking Silver C, I am suggesting you don't over-react just because you got snookered on the prior owner's botched LP conversion. You can definitely get help here on this forum for parts, but it isn't like ordering on Amazon or Weber. You will have to give members a chance to respond. Trading and buying from members who truly want to see you succeed is going to be way cheaper. That isn't to say you shouldn't have your eyes open for "donor" grills if you plan to do more restores, but I would hate to see you dump more $ than is needed to get your Silver C working - and looking - the way you want.

I will see if I have anything in my inventory that might be of some help. It will take me a while!
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Thanks a lot I really appreciate the advice. In reality I just hope to be up and running by 4th of July. Thanks again.
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Steve, do you have a piece of 16 gauge wire if not go to home depot buy a foot for most likely less than 2 bucks. The 16 gauge will fit in the orifice of a natural gas manifold it will not fit in a propane orifice only a 18 gauge will fit. I bought a 1000 that did not have enough knowledge all they did was stick a propane regulator on the manifold same problem a flame thrower. The giveaway was that it had no tank scale but sometimes they were properly converted with a new manifold. The wire will be the answer.

That model looks like it has the continuous valves which were a 270 sweep trying to avoid the wrath of Larry but if that is the case orifices can be bought drilled they make you buy a regulator but there are many posts on here on where to buy them.
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How difficult would this be, I can do basic stuff but not the handiest guy. Thank you.
 
StevenR,

I replied to your PM. I have the 270 sweep propane manifold you need, with the quick disconnect for the side burner. Also happen to have the swing up table, but I'll double check to make sure that it's the style that will match your grill.
 
DaveW said:
StevenR,

I replied to your PM. I have the 270 sweep propane manifold you need, with the quick disconnect for the side burner. Also happen to have the swing up table, but I'll double check to make sure that it's the style that will match your grill.
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Awesome thank you.
 
KaBoom Steve! Awesome, put some pictures of your completed grill up when you have it set up!
 
JKim (or anyone else that might know) while the flip up tables are interchangeable between earlier square model(2000 -2003) and later round ones ((2004 - 2006), do you know if the work tables are as well ?

Long story short, I'm looking at sending StevenR a rounded left side flip up from a 2005/6 model. For aesthics, was wondering if I could just send him the work table as well so that everything looks tidy.
 
DaveW said:
JKim (or anyone else that might know) while the flip up tables are interchangeable between earlier square model(2000 -2003) and later round ones ((2004 - 2006), do you know if the work tables are as well ?

Long story short, I'm looking at sending StevenR a rounded left side flip up from a 2005/6 model. For aesthics, was wondering if I could just send him the work table as well so that everything looks tidy.
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Dave,

The frame is the same, so both the flip up and top tables should be readily interchangeable. The rounded top one just sticks out more and covers the top of hinge part on the swing table. I personally like the rounded ones better.

You can even swap the old slat type trays onto a Silver/Gold, except that the extended frame pieces have interior bolts that get in the way. Otherwise, even those interchange. I know because I have experimented in considering using a Silver C frame to hold a 1000 type firebox and trays. I gave that up because the firebox dimensions are different left to right, but the tray part would work fine if the bolts were switched to the outside or if the slats were slightly shortened on the trays. The newer style doesn't drop in but instead lays on top of the frame, so the bolts don't affect it.
 
Jon Tofte said:
I know because I have experimented in considering using a Silver C frame to hold a 1000 type firebox and trays. I gave that up because the firebox dimensions are different left to right, ....
Click to expand...

Thanks for mentioning this Jon. I was thinking about this too but now I don't even have to try it.
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Steve, do you have a piece of 16 gauge wire if not go to home depot buy a foot for most likely less than 2 bucks. The 16 gauge will fit in the orifice of a natural gas manifold it will not fit in a propane orifice only a 18 gauge will fit. I bought a 1000 that did not have enough knowledge all they did was stick a propane regulator on the manifold same problem a flame thrower. The giveaway was that it had no tank scale but sometimes they were properly converted with a new manifold. The wire will be the answer.

That model looks like it has the continuous valves which were a 270 sweep trying to avoid the wrath of Larry but if that is the case orifices can be bought drilled they make you buy a regulator but there are many posts on here on where to buy them.
Click to expand...

There is no wrath and frankly I don't need the insult when I am trying to save people huge problems. Maybe I should not share any knowledge and let you people blow yourselves to kingdom come
 
LMichaels said:
There is no wrath and frankly I don't need the insult when I am trying to save people huge problems. Maybe I should not share any knowledge and let you people blow yourselves to kingdom come
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Larry, I did not mean it as an insult meant you would make a correction if the info was bad as you are the go to Nat/Propane conversion guy. Again it was not an insult worked out well for him as Dave came up with the proper manifold.
 
LMichaels said:
There is no wrath and frankly I don't need the insult when I am trying to save people huge problems. Maybe I should not share any knowledge and let you people blow yourselves to kingdom come
Click to expand...

Hey Larry, was wondering if you could help me...I am trying to convert an NG gas manifold from a Gold B to LP. Now I don't have a clue on how to do this. Reading from your posts from other threads it's not as simple as just changing the orifices. How do I go about converting it? I do have LP orifices from a Silver B that I could use. I want to try and see if I can do this conversion instead of paying $100+ dollars for a new manifold. Thank you kindly.
 
Sam, sometimes it's as easy as changing the orifices sometimes not. Somewhere in these threads (Chris Allingham IIRC) posted a photo of the differences in the valves that have fixed (3 distinct "click" positions and those that have a "variable" orifice more like your home gas range) If you look at most gas ranges they come from the factory set up to run on house supply NG but come with orifices and instructions how to set it up for LP.
If you can find the photo or at the very least find the photos and video Chris posted on cleaning and lubing the valves you'll see what I mean. If you have fixed type valves on the spool you will see 3 distinct orifices. If you have the variable type there will be some "slots" that vary in width and depth as you turn the spool in the valve housing. If you open one of your valves and you see the slots you're golden. Swap the orifices (assuming they're properly sized) and you good to go. If you see fixed valves it will not work to go from NG to LP as your low and med settings will be WAY too hot due to the much higher pressure of LP compared to NG. 11" WC to 4-7" WC (over double). In that case the only way you can effectively make the change is with an entirely new manifold set for the proper gas.
I should also mention going from LP to NG with fixed type valves can actually be dangerous as the low and med settings may not allow enough gas flow to support full combustion. Which could cause a partial flame out and accumulation of gas under the hood met with a sudden ignition and possible damages and injury. If you know what you're doing it is possible to modify the valves BUT it's irreversible so if you make a mistake you're screwed
BEst of luck
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Larry, I did not mean it as an insult meant you would make a correction if the info was bad as you are the go to Nat/Propane conversion guy. Again it was not an insult worked out well for him as Dave came up with the proper manifold.
Click to expand...

Sorry but the way you put it by noting "wrath" it came off insulting to me. I may come off a bit strong BUT not because of wrath I just don't want to see people hurt or their grills damaged because of the stupidity I see these backwoods engineers come up with
 
Sam,

Can you just switch the manifolds? Or if that won’t work you could switch the entire valves.
 
LMichaels said:
Sam, sometimes it's as easy as changing the orifices sometimes not. Somewhere in these threads (Chris Allingham IIRC) posted a photo of the differences in the valves that have fixed (3 distinct "click" positions and those that have a "variable" orifice more like your home gas range) If you look at most gas ranges they come from the factory set up to run on house supply NG but come with orifices and instructions how to set it up for LP.
If you can find the photo or at the very least find the photos and video Chris posted on cleaning and lubing the valves you'll see what I mean. If you have fixed type valves on the spool you will see 3 distinct orifices. If you have the variable type there will be some "slots" that vary in width and depth as you turn the spool in the valve housing. If you open one of your valves and you see the slots you're golden. Swap the orifices (assuming they're properly sized) and you good to go. If you see fixed valves it will not work to go from NG to LP as your low and med settings will be WAY too hot due to the much higher pressure of LP compared to NG. 11" WC to 4-7" WC (over double). In that case the only way you can effectively make the change is with an entirely new manifold set for the proper gas.
I should also mention going from LP to NG with fixed type valves can actually be dangerous as the low and med settings may not allow enough gas flow to support full combustion. Which could cause a partial flame out and accumulation of gas under the hood met with a sudden ignition and possible damages and injury. If you know what you're doing it is possible to modify the valves BUT it's irreversible so if you make a mistake you're screwed
BEst of luck
Click to expand...

Thank you sir. I will check on it as soon as I get home.
 
THyde said:
Sam,

Can you just switch the manifolds? Or if that won’t work you could switch the entire valves.
Click to expand...

I would but it's hard to find the manifold for a 2000 Genesis Gold B let alone a Genesis Gold B with the beefier old summit frame. AFAIK they were only only made during 2000-2001. I've been searching high and low for an LP one but no luck. My last resort would be to purchase one off of Ereplacement Parts but would like to save some dinero if I can.
 
LMichaels said:
Sorry but the way you put it by noting "wrath" it came off insulting to me. I may come off a bit strong BUT not because of wrath I just don't want to see people hurt or their grills damaged because of the stupidity I see these backwoods engineers come up with
Click to expand...

Larry,
I am sure Brian didn’t mean it to come off the way it seemed to you. Members here are VERY grateful for the knowledge you have and share. You are absolutely right that LP and natural gas are nothing to fool around with. It would be tragic for someone to get badly injured or even killed because of ignorance.
 
LMichaels said:
Sam, sometimes it's as easy as changing the orifices sometimes not. Somewhere in these threads (Chris Allingham IIRC) posted a photo of the differences in the valves that have fixed (3 distinct "click" positions and those that have a "variable" orifice more like your home gas range) If you look at most gas ranges they come from the factory set up to run on house supply NG but come with orifices and instructions how to set it up for LP.
If you can find the photo or at the very least find the photos and video Chris posted on cleaning and lubing the valves you'll see what I mean. If you have fixed type valves on the spool you will see 3 distinct orifices. If you have the variable type there will be some "slots" that vary in width and depth as you turn the spool in the valve housing. If you open one of your valves and you see the slots you're golden. Swap the orifices (assuming they're properly sized) and you good to go. If you see fixed valves it will not work to go from NG to LP as your low and med settings will be WAY too hot due to the much higher pressure of LP compared to NG. 11" WC to 4-7" WC (over double). In that case the only way you can effectively make the change is with an entirely new manifold set for the proper gas.
I should also mention going from LP to NG with fixed type valves can actually be dangerous as the low and med settings may not allow enough gas flow to support full combustion. Which could cause a partial flame out and accumulation of gas under the hood met with a sudden ignition and possible damages and injury. If you know what you're doing it is possible to modify the valves BUT it's irreversible so if you make a mistake you're screwed
BEst of luck
Click to expand...



Larry, have been wondering something and can't get my head quite wrapped around it. (Not questioning what you've said, rather, just trying to understand. One of those Hmmmmmmmm types of things.

Anyways, on the fixed valves, each of the three orifices are larger diameter on NG than LP, and the orifice on the end of the spud is larger diameter as well. Wouldn't the slots cut in continuously variable NG valves have to a different size than those in an LP valve as well ? I'd hate for the answer to be yes, as that would make my life more complicated, but I've just kind of wondered. I guess maybe if they are the same, the NG setups and LP setups straight from Weber achieved different temps ? The NG might be a tad bit lower across the board than the LP ?
 
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