Scored a Genesis Silver B! Some questions about part-swapping


 
I use 0000 steel wool and Windex with great success. Spray a heavy amount of Windex then rub lightly with the steel wool and wipe off. Repeat if necessary.
 
I think when the op mentioned scotchbrite he meant on the underside or interior of the hood not the porcelain at least that's how I read it

I'll try the steel wool on mine right now it kinda looks like a 15 year old black Chevrolet if you've seen one you know what I mean
 
I realize he meant the underside of the hood but it too is porcelain and it too should NEVER be touched with scotchbrite pads
 
Back with..well..minimal updates! :p

The good news? A little bit of work with a wire brush drill attachment did a good job of removing some of the extra grease stains/ash from the cookbox (It's far from pretty inside, but it's clean and ready to go at least!). The outside of the box is ready for paint. The bad news? The chunk of plastic from the side trim piece is still stuck inside of the metal tubing...



As you can see, I've had quite the fight with it trying to get it out. Why was I trying to remove the side trim piece, you may ask? There is mild rusting inside of the frame, so I wish to apply some Rustoleum within, in addition to re-painting the outside of the frame. Also, I decided I want to pick up some tube plugs/not use the side trim piece (i.e - more of the Genesis 1000 look).

There is definitely something bonding it very well to the metal. Rust? JB Weld? I'm not sure. It's my understanding that the side trim piece was not installed into the frame from the factory (i.e - the end user installed it). I've destroyed various drill bits and screwdrivers trying to break the bond, so it's time to try something else. I heard that I might want to give soaking it with Jasco a try. Thoughts? The only other thing I can think of at this point is using heat...but it's not really an option with where I live/I don't want to damage the framing any more than I already have.
 
How,far in the tube does it seem to go? Could some careful trimmI got clean up the end so you could install the plugs?
Since these were "post factory" additions, I'd guess that they have been glued in with some kind of misery adhesive. A small torch might heat it enough to soften the glue but, I don't make any promises.
 
It's only about 4-5" deep. Thought about trimming/shredding the piece up some more, but enough material has already been moved that if there wasn't something bonding it to the metal, the piece would easily come out.

I heard Jasco can help remove JB weld/extra strong glues, so I might have to give it a shot next.
 
Back with a minor update

FINALLY got the rest of the trim piece out of rhe tubing - took a bit of "negotiating" with a spade drill bit. As far as I can tell, it was just somehow amazingly well wedged in there (no signs of glue/JB weld, etc).

I had a couple more quick questions though. When my co-worked drilled out the broken bolt from the cookbox, a small part of the inside finish (near the bolt hole) was removed. I've read that you should not use paint (even bbq paint) to recoat it, so what should I use instead to prevent rusting?

Also, if anyone would be so kind - what are the dimensions of the slats/brackets for the wooden side tables? I will have to fab something up (or find parts from another grill), as the only replacement parts I've found online are the top portion of the durawood stuff (i.e - no flip up portion).

Thanks!
 
There is no need to worry about the cook box rusting. It is aluminum so just leave it. Use stainless steel for all the bolts/screws and also use never seize on all threads. I think the slats are 1.5" wide and 1/2" thick. A good product id you want to stay true to original is to buy cedar fence boards 1/2" x 4" and rip them down. Then sand and finish them (or you can use redwood which was what Weber used as OEM IIRC).
 
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I used 1 by 2s from home depot. They are probably closer to 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch. I think I saw the length was 15 5/16 inches which seems right. I measured my original boards and got closer to 15 because they had shrunk as they rotted. The 1 by 2s wind up being more narrow than stock. Cutting down a 1 by 3 or 4 might be better if you have the tools.
 
Thanks again folks!

So, I do have yet some more questions, as I'm getting to the refinishing/making new slat table work. I noticed that the factory slat tables use an "S-angle" type bracket (So that it's basically angle iron, plus an extra side for the slats to rest on). Are these brackets worth seeking out? I was just gonna use regular angle iron, since I can possibly get some for free.

Also, is boiled linseed oil (I have some that I use for oiling some wood patio furniture) fine to use for coating the new wood slats (I plan to use cedar)/lid handle with?
 
Linseed oil is great. You can use simple angle material (aluminum would be the best) and use brass or stainless steel screws to fasten the wood. The "Z" brackets are used by Weber because it made assembly easier
 
So, yet more questions arise, lol.

I saw in MarkSiebel's thread that he made Z brackets by joining two pieces of angle together. Assuming I use steel, should the sides being glued together still be hit with high temp paint? Or will liquid nails act as a sealer/protective coating?

Also, just a general maintenance question - How often do the fuel regulator/hose assemblies need to be replaced? I haven't noticed any issues with mine, but I'm curious.
 
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