S-320 Re-Freshening


 
Drew: At least the missing piece isn't on the front or rear, but fairly close to the left edge. If the drip pan still attaches, should work out.
 
If you are the original owner, you might want to contact Weber C/S. That is likely still under warranty.
 
I ended up powering through and finishing reassembly of the E-310 yesterday. Here's the CL ad. I tried to price it at the lower end of what I've seen in the local market. I'd be happy to receive any insight on pricing/presentation, etc.
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Can't see the thumbnail photos on the bottom, but if the cabinet is in good shape, that should easily be worth $95.
 
Bruce said:
Can't see the thumbnail photos on the bottom, but if the cabinet is in good shape, that should easily be worth $95.
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Here are some of the other ad pics:
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Seems fair to me too, but some better looking wood would help a lot. Just a 3/8" or even 1/4" cut to size piece of plywood would make it look a lot more presentable. A quick dab of stain on it would be another easy bonus.
 
Bruce said:
Seems fair to me too, but some better looking wood would help a lot. Just a 3/8" or even 1/4" cut to size piece of plywood would make it look a lot more presentable. A quick dab of stain on it would be another easy bonus.
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I was beginning to consider getting and painting a piece of 1/4" plywood to dress up the ugly structural 2by floor, but the grill sold today for $75. Overall, I'm satisfied. I picked up the E-310 two weeks ago today. I had some concerns about selling a large, imperfect natural gas grill this late in the season, but a 2-figure list price took care of that.

Now I can get on to the main event of renewing the S-320.
 
Keep us posted on the S320. THose SS grills can be tough to clean. But, it should look pretty when it is done.
 
Have you made any progress on cleaning up that S320 yet?

I just picked one up this week that is fairly dirty, but looks like it will clean up nicely, it is not even rusted on the bottom.0

I'm thinking I just need to use some barkeeps friend to clean the stainless, then may see how hitting it with my car polisher looks.

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TommyL said:
Have you made any progress on cleaning up that S320 yet?

I just picked one up this week that is fairly dirty, but looks like it will clean up nicely, it is not even rusted on the bottom.0

I'm thinking I just need to use some barkeeps friend to clean the stainless, then may see how hitting it with my car polisher looks.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I have yet to begin on the S-320. Having the Genny Jr. to handle my gas grill needs has taken away the pressure to move quickly on the S-320. I've also been paralyzed by a debate over investing in Carbon Off or continuing to buy Member's Mark grill cleaner. As far as working on stainless, I'll only have to work on the side tables and doors, as Weber replaced my lid under warranty. :) Hopefully, I'll get off the fence and get to work soon.
 
DrewZ said:
Unfortunately, I have yet to begin on the S-320. Having the Genny Jr. to handle my gas grill needs has taken away the pressure to move quickly on the S-320. I've also been paralyzed by a debate over investing in Carbon Off or continuing to buy Member's Mark grill cleaner. As far as working on stainless, I'll only have to work on the side tables and doors, as Weber replaced my lid under warranty. :) Hopefully, I'll get off the fence and get to work soon.
Click to expand...

Quick update. I invested in Carbon Off, and haven't been impressed. It seems like it should be the Nuts (based on the cost, viscosity and smell). However, I didn't see a marked improvement over the Member's Mark grill cleaner that I had been using. I have a whole quart of Carbon Off, so I guess I'll try to vary the duration and thickness of the application.

In other news, while working on the cookbox, I realized that the back and sides weren't square. I uploaded pictures to Weber customer service, and got an email back within hours that I'll be getting a new cookbox under the 25-year "aluminum castings" warranty. (That pretty much renders the Carbon Off issue moot.)

I may be preaching to the choir, but Weber warranty and customer service is unbeatable.
 
For the cabinet bottom I use a variation of Bruce's cross member repair - Thanks Bruce!. I use 1" square tube and star threaded inserts between the legs to keep the cabinet square and brace it up. I attach an angle iron or flat stock piece of iron between the cross members for support of the floor. The cross member gives a place for the door magnet to stick or mount a magnet to stick to the doors.

I go over the welded side panel "L" bend with composite decking scrap that I scavenge for a floor.

This raises the floor about an 1". I cut down the drip pan bracket to fit. I move the tank holder to the outside but that is just my preference.

Costs about $40 with paint. I do a couple of welds but nuts and bolts would do the trick



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