Rusted screws on Weber 900


 
E

Eddie Monroe

TVWBB Member
I am repairing my Weber 900 for the second time in 20 years. The 900 looks just like the old genesis and spirit models. The rails for the bottom slide pan have rusted away. I was able to find the replacement but just realized the old screws are rusted in and stuck tight. What is the best way to remove these screws short of drilling them out and re-tapping the hole? They are soaking with wd-40 right now. I’m hoping that some of you that have refurbished old grills have an idea to help.
Thanks
Eddie
 
Yah, not bad for twenty years. Keep applying a penatrating oil like PB blaster over a few days. If that doesnt work, you can try some heat (propane torch). If that doesn't work, twist them off and drill them out, then you can just insert new screws slightly bigger than the hole. No need to formally tap the holes. I have done it several times on my rehab grills.
 
Plan a was to use pb blaster. Plan b was to drill the screws out. Well, yesterdayI sprayed the screws with pb blaster and waited a few hours. One screw came out easily. I recoated the others and tried again this morning. The post where the screw had come out looked like it had some rust caked on it so I rubbed it and this is what I found.

standoff.jpg


So on to plan c or d or whatever. I think I will cut the off screw stand-off flat, drill the hole through the bottom, find a steel bushing the size of the original standoff then bolt the rail and bushing to the bottom.
Any better suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Jb weld. Just mount the rail as is with a screw. Then add JB Weld into the area where the metal is missing.
 
I repaired a very similar problem on a boat motor about 20 years ago. And it was aluminum as well.
 
As we look at enhancing our gas grill section here, one idea that has been mentioned is to not only group past restorations but also put together a set if “how to’s” - video clips like what Bruce and Chris have done being perhaps the best method.

Anyway, I would love to see a “how to” on using JB Weld. I bought some of the high heat version but have never had the nerve to try it.

Sounds like a great fix for this problem. What about small burn-through in a firebox or even a kettle grill?
 
Jon, I have done the High Heat JB weld on a couple cook boxes. In fact, my personal Blue Head 1000 has JB weld to fill a hole. Still holding strong after a couple years.
 
As far as a rust breaker goes, I use a 50/50 mix of the cheapest automatic transmission fluid I can find, and acetone. Thus far, it's outperformed PBBlaster, Seafoam Deep Creep, and even Aerokroil. I keep a squirt can with a tight sealing threaded cap on the shelf.
 
I could not find the high temp jb weld but I found quiksteel that could handle up to 2000 degrees and figured I’d never cook hamburgers that high so that is what I used. Seems to have worked. I now have shined new bottom pan rails on my grill and will try it out this weekend.
This has given me incentive to give my grill a thorough refurbishing. I’m going to start with the frame. It is showing some signs of rust but nothing impacting structural integrity.
I really appreciate all the info/help I am finding here. I’ll post how it goes once I get started.
Eddie
 
Eddie, you have a whole crew of supporters here for your rehab. You will find that pictures greatly increase your help. We're mostly here for vicarious restorations, so keep us in the loop!
 
JKalchik said:
As far as a rust breaker goes, I use a 50/50 mix of the cheapest automatic transmission fluid I can find, and acetone. Thus far, it's outperformed PBBlaster, Seafoam Deep Creep, and even Aerokroil. I keep a squirt can with a tight sealing threaded cap on the shelf.
Click to expand...

Thats interesting; I'll try it out soon.
 
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