New owner - very used 18.5 WSM


 
M

MatthewR

TVWBB Member
So I purchased a used WSM off of FB. Turns out this thing is old & well loved. Shallow water pan, no markings on the dampers, the wood handle is still attached but completely warn. They are so hard to come by around here I went ahead and bought it. As I got it home and really inspected it - it seems the last owner wanted to make the grill grates "pretty" and painted them :eek: with something. So I ordered a replacement upper and lower. I have a few questions though:
1.) The upper grate I ordered is 7432 it looks about a 1/4" smaller than it should be and has much thinner gauge metal than the bottom grate - is this normal?
2.) I also found there was a makeshift repair to the bottom bowl (n) will a new, replacement bowl fit this old WSM?
3.) The original damper vents are very loose - is there a way to tighten them up or should I just replace them?


I'm sure I'll have more questions but that is it for now lol. Thanks in advance!
 
Does gravity cause the dampers to move out of position? If they stay in place once set I would not bother replacing them.

I would also check if this WSM has ever been registered. How old is it? It should have a serial number.
 
I think the grates for the pre-2009 and 2009 are the same, 17.5. They do seem to be small and unstable. I bought an aftermarket top grate that was slightly larger.
You may be able to modify the grill straps.
 
The top grate should be 17 1/2" and it's the same for all Weber 18.5" charcoal grills.
Bottom grate should be 17" and it's the same grate that Weber uses as a charcoal grate on all 22.5" kettles except it's nickel plated.
Newer WSM's have handles on the lower grate.
 
Thank you all for the replies. I'm not too concerned about the diameter of the grate as much as the metal being thinner. It might not matter but I thought it was odd the lower grate #85042 was substantially thicker (it also cost about twice as much).
Regarding the dampers - gravity does not move them so I will leave them. Thank you!
Regarding the serial number - there are no numbers or markings anywhere on the cooker??? I'll work on some pictures later this evening.

Any idea on if a new charcoal "bowl" will fit the center piece of an older smoker? I would imagine so but would rather avoid paying 100+ for a new one only to return it.
 
MatthewR said:
Thank you all for the replies. I'm not too concerned about the diameter of the grate as much as the metal being thinner. It might not matter but I thought it was odd the lower grate #85042 was substantially thicker (it also cost about twice as much).
Regarding the dampers - gravity does not move them so I will leave them. Thank you!
Regarding the serial number - there are no numbers or markings anywhere on the cooker??? I'll work on some pictures later this evening.

Any idea on if a new charcoal "bowl" will fit the center piece of an older smoker? I would imagine so but would rather avoid paying 100+ for a new one only to return it.
Click to expand...
Post pics of the charcoal bowl. How bad is it? I have used hi-temp JB Weld epoxy putty with hi heat paint, I have also used furnace cement that worked quite well.
 
Here are pictures of the damage to the bottom bowl. It's not a huge hole but my concern was it would allow too much air in and mess up temps. I haven't tried the smoker yet because I just got the grates in. I just noticed the guy also painted the charcoal ring - should I replace that too or do you think it would be safe to burn it all off?
Bottom Bowl Damage 2.jpg
 
MatthewR said:
Here are pictures of the damage to the bottom bowl. It's not a huge hole but my concern was it would allow too much air in and mess up temps. I haven't tried the smoker yet because I just got the grates in. I just noticed the guy also painted the charcoal ring - should I replace that too or do you think it would be safe to burn it all off?
View attachment 27767
Click to expand...
If you wanted to use this bowl I would grind it and patch it using the HH epoxy putty and a piece of sheet metal large enough to cover. It is below the coal great and only ashes will hit and like you said you need to control air flow. The painted Ring if in good shape maybe take a blow torch to it and burn whatever will burn? I am sure others may come up with alterative ideas. Since this is your first one. I would fix and use to make sure you like it and will get use before spending a lot.
 
Regarding the serial # - here's the top damper... all of the dampers look the same. No discernible markings of any kind.
Top Damper - No markings.jpg
 
Joe Anshien said:
If you wanted to use this bowl I would grind it and patch it using the HH epoxy putty and a piece of sheet metal large enough to cover. It is below the coal great and only ashes will hit and like you said you need to control air flow. The painted Ring if in good shape maybe take a blow torch to it and burn whatever will burn? I am sure others may come up with alterative ideas. Since this is your first one. I would fix and use to make sure you like it and will get use before spending a lot.
Click to expand...
Thank you Joe!
 
If I were you I would call Weber and see if they can sell you a bowl. If they are and the price is right I would do that.

If you are handy you can try to fix it but how much would that cost is it worth your time? My suspicion is that hole will cause the temperature to run way too high.

Here's a link for a new bowl.

Bowl - Black 63001 - OEM Weber - eReplacementParts.com

Buy the official Weber Bowl - Black 63001 replacement - Use our model diagrams, repair help, and video tutorials to help get the job done.
www.ereplacementparts.com www.ereplacementparts.com

It may be worth patching yourself.
 
To tighten up the top grate remove the strap top nut and put a washer or 2 in between the body and the strap. Tighten the nut. I agree with those that said the bowl can be repaired. You're not restoring - just repairing. Wire brushing the rusty rim and coating with Epoxy paint should stop the corrosion. Have fun.
 
JWorden said:
If I were you I would call Weber and see if they can sell you a bowl. If they are and the price is right I would do that.

If you are handy you can try to fix it but how much would that cost is it worth your time? My suspicion is that hole will cause the temperature to run way too high.

Here's a link for a new bowl.

Bowl - Black 63001 - OEM Weber - eReplacementParts.com

Buy the official Weber Bowl - Black 63001 replacement - Use our model diagrams, repair help, and video tutorials to help get the job done.
www.ereplacementparts.com www.ereplacementparts.com

It may be worth patching yourself
Click to expand...

Thankyou JWorden
 
Lew Newby said:
To tighten up the top grate remove the strap top nut and put a washer or 2 in between the body and the strap. Tighten the nut. I agree with those that said the bowl can be repaired. You're not restoring - just repairing. Wire brushing the rusty rim and coating with Epoxy paint should stop the corrosion. Have fun.
Click to expand...
Thank you Lew!
 
Bite the bullet on the new bottom bowl, it will last you the rest of your life.
Patch the bottom for the time being, fine. As long as the dampers actually close you should be ok. The hole in the bottom will/3 acting like an additional draft hole unless it’s covered. I can’t say anything about high heat epoxy never used it.
Replace the grates, they are not that expensive buy some pork butts and get to it!
Welcome
 
That must be a pretty old one, maybe a C with no vent markings?
You could try cutting the lids of two tin cans and sandwich them over the hole with self tapping screws like minis for metal studs.
I think the lip/ rim/ rolled edge, treated with some veg oil would keep it from rusting further.
 
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timothy said:
That must be a pretty old one, maybe a C with no vent markings?
You could try cutting the lids of two tin cans and sandwich them over the hole with self tapping screws like minis for metal studs.
I think the lip/ rim/ rolled edge, treated with some veg oil would keep it from rusting further.
Click to expand...
Thank you Timothy - I'll probably try this with some high heat rtv sealant until I decide to replace the bottom bowl. :)
I'm not sure about the "C" model - from the pictures on here - they had raised "slots" on the dampers between the holes and mine are completely smooth...
I took the wood handle off and did notice it has two prongs that stick upwards on either end of the handle...I don't know if that offers any clues?
 
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