New from NorCal with a recent free gas grill in need of restoration

Hello,

I recently acquired my first grill, a free Weber Platinum (Genesis 1000?). It has the durawood shelves, three burners and the two layer (8+5?) flavorizors. I'm planning to follow the 'standard' restoration, of disassembly, high temp paint of the lid ends, frame and FB, rebuild the valves and replace the flavorizors (with the thicker stainless ones off eBay), new stainless solid rod cooking grate and other odds and ends (warming basket, broken caster etc).

I thought it had wooden shelves that needed replacing, but upon closer inspection I see they're durawood. So I will just replace the metal brackets that hold them for now (as they're rusted) and hold off the durawood replacement.

Any info/links/advice is welcome. (particularly looking to know the exact model so I can get the right manual and parts).

Thanks.

 

Bob Ivey

TVWBB Emerald Member
Welcome to the forum Steven. That is a great grill and you will enjoy the thrill of rehabbing it. Were you able to fire it up when you first got it? This forum is a great place to learn and to share and everyone here is very friendly. Congrats on a great grill.
 
I just dumped out the tray in the bottom today, which had maybe two pounds of black remnants of grilling in it. Surprisingly (to me anyways), the tray seems is reasonable condition. I'll try to fire the grill up this week and see if it works. I have no reason to believe that it doesn't work. After a test run, it'll be plenty of hot water and simple green to try to get down through 10 - 25 years (not sure of the grill's age) of gunk.

I'm struggling to find the metal angle pieces that the durawood shelf slats are screwed to. I've seen whole shelves for sale (although out of stock these days), but not just the metal part. Could it be that people just clean them up and reuse?
 
So both bottles that came with the grill are empty. One has the quick connect adapter in it, the other is a 'swap a bottle'. I'll fill one up and try again on the weekend.

If I come to replace the regulator and hose assembly (basically bottle connection to manifold part, which I think is around $30?), is the current thinking that the quick connect should be kept of ditched?

Thanks
 

LMichaels

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Get yourself one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Propane-QCC...485024?hash=item43f7664ae0:g:mgMAAOSwh2xYBECh as for the tanks with the quick connects you may find no one will refill them as they're too old. What I would do is simply run your old tanks down to an exchange place, and exchange them for full tanks. Then install one of the new style connectors I showed you. You'll be good to go. As for the "Z" brackets and other exterior rust sanding and repainting will do the trick
 
Get yourself one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Propane-QCC...485024?hash=item43f7664ae0:g:mgMAAOSwh2xYBECh as for the tanks with the quick connects you may find no one will refill them as they're too old. What I would do is simply run your old tanks down to an exchange place, and exchange them for full tanks. Then install one of the new style connectors I showed you. You'll be good to go. As for the "Z" brackets and other exterior rust sanding and repainting will do the trick
Thanks, ordered one of them this morning.
 
Some detailed pictures (sorry, I don't have a way to rotate them right now).

Just some background: I got this grill free, as it was abandoned at the new house we moved into. I've just stopped working to be a stay at home dad while I look for a new job in our new city, so the budget for this restoration is very limited. I'm looking at the stainless rod grates ($120?) and 16ga flavorizors ($75), but the durawood will stay, the big wheels will stay etc for now. Once I'm working again, it seems easy enough to complete the project. Unfortunately I've started looking in Craigslist and have decided that I want a charcoal grill project next ... blast these hobbies!!

The flavorizors seem into their twilight years, so thinking of using the non-OEM 16 gauge set. Or do I just need to replace the five long ones and it doesnt matter that the others are rusted up?




The burners look fine to me, and unless there is an issue when I test, they'll stay.


Seems I'm missing a bolt or something for the extra shelf mount.


I removed this adapter today, as I was trying to get this bottle filled. The grill came with an AmeriGas swap-a-bottle, but the nearest swap location is a decent drive. The other bottle is this one, and I'm just trying to find a propane vendor.


Is this the only place where I should be able to see the model number and other details? All the text is gone.
 

LMichaels

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Yeah those quick connect bottles are quite old and my experience was no vendor will refill it. So I did a quick trip to any place that has exchange tanks. Once I had that and the new adapter it's golden. As for the burners use a clean stainless steel bristle grill brush (I keep one specifically for this) to brush the burners clean along the holes. Any corroded shut use a small screwdriver to gently clean the crud out if necessary. Another handy thing is to have a couple cans of spray brake cleaner. I use that to flush out the burners. Another thing handy is a product called "Never Seize". once you have screws broken loose it's great stuff to lightly coat the threads with so removal next time is easier.
Grates from RCPlanebuyer along with his flavorizer bars will afford you a lifetime of service and his grates are a joy to use. Only other tip is keep the pull out grease funnel/tray cleaned and replace the foil pan occasionally to prevent grease fires and you will love that grill.
 
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Jeff MA

TVWBB Pro
Steven,
Nice find!
I would say you are correct regarding the model # as I almost purchased a near-identical grill which was labeled as a 1300. Most of the major wear parts are the same between the 1000 and the 5000 so they are easy to obtain.
Once you received the adapter that LMichaels suggested you might just purchase this tank from Tractor Supply as it is cheaper than the HD/Lowes tanks and hangs much nicer on the Weber gas gauge setup-

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...e-cylinder-equipped-with-qcc1-opd-valve-20-lb

If your "Z" brackets are indeed rusted beyond repair contact David Santana aka RCplanebuyer on ebay, he not only makes the Grates and Flavorizer Bars but the Z brackets as well, all in 304 stainless steel. If you get all three pieces from David you'll save on shipping cost. Beware other vendors that also sell the same pieces as they are lower grade 400 series stainless. Spend a little more and be set for life.

Welcome to the Forum!

Jeff
 
Steven,
Nice find!
I would say you are correct regarding the model # as I almost purchased a near-identical grill which was labeled as a 1300. Most of the major wear parts are the same between the 1000 and the 5000 so they are easy to obtain.
Once you received the adapter that LMichaels suggested you might just purchase this tank from Tractor Supply as it is cheaper than the HD/Lowes tanks and hangs much nicer on the Weber gas gauge setup-

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...e-cylinder-equipped-with-qcc1-opd-valve-20-lb

If your "Z" brackets are indeed rusted beyond repair contact David Santana aka RCplanebuyer on ebay, he not only makes the Grates and Flavorizer Bars but the Z brackets as well, all in 304 stainless steel. If you get all three pieces from David you'll save on shipping cost. Beware other vendors that also sell the same pieces as they are lower grade 400 series stainless. Spend a little more and be set for life.

Welcome to the Forum!

Jeff
Thanks for the pointers. I will order all my parts from him. I figure I'd rather spend $200 now and take them with me to later grills if needed.

Grill cover washed last night. It's amazing how little time I have now that I've ''stopped work'' ... one task a day should see me ready to order parts in a week or two. I've started my list at the bottom of the post, and will update as it grows and list the source/price incase someone has better/cheaper suggestions.

I thought the adapter allowed me to keep using one of the bottles I already have and the swap-a-bottle without having to keep swapping the bottle to quick connect adapter across? Amazon suggested this part, which I guess would replace the whole knob manifold to bottle including the regulator?



RCplanebuyer:

13 x 16ga flavorbars
Stainless rod grill grate
Z-bars

Other:

Two casters
Warming rack (stainless aftermarket from amazon for about $14)
Warming basket (Weber, about $12 from amazon)
Lid screw kit (weber, ordered for $5 delivered)
 

Jeff MA

TVWBB Pro
Steven,
That is the incorrect Hose/Regulator.

You should be using the Weber 7503 with the 1/8" mpt and not the 7502 with the female threads.

https://store.weber.com/items/detail/1364

Weber is out of it but several manufactures make that very same hose.
Unless the hose is cracked or dry rotted I would just replace the end piece. I have done both my Weber 700 as well as my 3400 with that adapter and have yet to have a problem.

Jeff
 
Steven,
That is the incorrect Hose/Regulator.

You should be using the Weber 7503 with the 1/8" mpt and not the 7502 with the female threads.

https://store.weber.com/items/detail/1364

Weber is out of it but several manufactures make that very same hose.
Unless the hose is cracked or dry rotted I would just replace the end piece. I have done both my Weber 700 as well as my 3400 with that adapter and have yet to have a problem.

Jeff
Thanks, I'll save that to my wish list incase I have an issue with the original. The cost of a whole new regulator and hose with fittings is surprisingly cheap compared to what I'm going to spend on the grates, flavor bars and z-bars.
 

DaveW

TVWBB Wizard
FWIW, rust/discoloration on flavorizer bars doesn't really matter. If they are still solid, they don't *have* to be replaced. Value wise, it's probably best to go ahead and get everything from RC at one time and save on shipping. That said, from a cash flow stand point, if the top bars are still solid, check with RC about just getting the bottom bars.
 
FWIW, rust/discoloration on flavorizer bars doesn't really matter. If they are still solid, they don't *have* to be replaced. Value wise, it's probably best to go ahead and get everything from RC at one time and save on shipping. That said, from a cash flow stand point, if the top bars are still solid, check with RC about just getting the bottom bars.
Thanks. I'll see what RC says about a combined price. I think I'll just do them now and look to save money in other areas. If two have the rusted out sections, the rest can't be far behind.

The JeffMA restoration is beautiful, kind of wishing I didn't order replacement lid bolts now and went with stainless like he used ... wow!



Thanks for the info,

Shopping List:

Ordered:
Rustoleum matt and gloss high heat paint - DONE
Casters x2, $5.99 each on Amazon - DONE
Lid bolt kit, $5 on eBay - DONE
Gas bottle adapter $7 on eBay - DONE

Still to order:

RCplanebuyer:
13 x 16ga flavorbars
Stainless rod grill grate
Z-bars (maybe)

Other:
Warming rack (stainless aftermarket from amazon for about $14)
Warming basket (Weber, about $12 from amazon)
New wooden lid handle (I think I've seen them for about $15 online somewhere)
New wheels ... depending on budget
 
Okay, so a question that is pretty general, but has me a little confused.

The grill came with two bottles. One has an AmeriGas plastic sleeve on it, the other nothing. The previously linked bottle from Tractor Supply would be very nice, but I believe I can possibly use an exchange company to end up with two workable bottles.







So the AmeriGas one is August 2013, and has the latest valve, so that one is ''good''?

The other one is April 1996, and cannot be filled (I can see no re-certification markings). I have read that some exchanges will take an expired + old valve bottle for no extra charge, and some will charge extra. However, I've read that you have to be careful when exchanging a nice newer bottle, as you could exchange an August 2013 bottle and receive a re-certified bottle from the 1990's?

Best plan is to exchange the 1996 bottle as BlueRhino or AmeriGas (Is there an exchange that is known to take any old bottle as the exchange without fees which make the whole process pointless?, but to fill up the 2013 bottle at a propane shop to keep the newer bottle?

A new bottle would be nice, however $30 on a new bottle when I potentially have two good bottles (if I can swap the 1996), is money I don't have to spend right now. That could be phase 3 once my kid goes to pre-school and I'm working again.

Thanks, and apologies for over analyzing the smallest details of this basic grill restoration.
 

LMichaels

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Just swap the older one. I have done this more than a few times never had anyone refuse or charge extra. Blue Rhino (or whoever) simply will replace the older style valve and recert the tank. Slam bam thank you mam
 

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