New Addition to the Family, rehab advice appreciated - Weber Genesis E-310

[Kyle in Woodstock]

This is how I'm going to go about keeping the doors shut on this rebuild.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B07JBRJXDY/tvwb-20

I found those thin magnetized cabinet catches. I can mount them easily to the wood bottom panel. They are plenty strong to keep the doors shut.
It came with 2 sets, so perfect for this application. I only need to use the magnet half of each since the doors are already metal. Plus it says they are stainless steel so should hold up well outdoors.

 

[Bruce]

On the cook box, I just use Rustoleum Ultra High heat paint....Usually flat on the outside of the fire box. I did my Genesis 1000 grill almost 4 years ago and it holding up grate. I did the end caps in the Rustoleum High heat ultra Semi Gloss and those are in need of a repaint this year. The paint doesn't recommend primer but you could use it....just make sure it is also high temp. I would not use gloss on any part of your E310.

 

[Bruce]

This is how I'm going to go about keeping the doors shut on this rebuild.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B07JBRJXDY/tvwb-20

I found those thin magnetized cabinet catches. I can mount them easily to the wood bottom panel. They are plenty strong to keep the doors shut.
It came with 2 sets, so perfect for this application. I only need to use the magnet half of each since the doors are already metal. Plus it says they are stainless steel so should hold up well outdoors.

Kyle, just keep in mind that the higher quality SS is not usually magnetic. I am not sure what the doors are on your grill, but my guess is they use the less expensive 430 SS on them and they would be magnetic. Just make sure you check that out before you toss the extra pieces.

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

Kyle, just keep in mind that the higher quality SS is not usually magnetic. I am not sure what the doors are on your grill, but my guess is they use the less expensive 430 SS on them and they would be magnetic. Just make sure you check that out before you toss the extra pieces.

I did test them and they stuck no issues, if anything the magnets might be over powered. Took me a minute to peel it back off the door.

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

On the cook box, I just use Rustoleum Ultra High heat paint....Usually flat on the outside of the fire box. I did my Genesis 1000 grill almost 4 years ago and it holding up grate. I did the end caps in the Rustoleum High heat ultra Semi Gloss and those are in need of a repaint this year. The paint doesn't recommend primer but you could use it....just make sure it is also high temp. I would not use gloss on any part of your E310.

Ok thanks for the info. Interesting the lid sides didn't hold up as well as the firebox. Maybe they have more exposure to the sun which broke down the paint quicker.

I'm using the VHT Flameproof paint in Cast Iron color for the firebox and side of lid. I was reading some reviews from various sites and it seems most folks are using the 3 parts to paint; primer, paint, clear. Most of those reviews are for automotive parts though. Some even recommended heating up the part you are painting before you apply paint. Not sure I'll go that far....if anything maybe just paint them in the basement with a little space heater or something.

Going to bug you again Bruce... Can you paint the firebox and lid sides with multiple coats using just one can of paint? Or do you typically use more?

 

[Jason in CA]

O use the Rust-Oleum flat black on the firebox and lid sides. For the ones I've done I buy 3 cans and usually go through about two and a half. I'm thinking if you're buying two different colors then one can would be enough for the lid sides and two for the firebox.

 

[Jason in CA]

With the three cans I do at about three coats on the on the lid sides and firebox. So if you are doing two colors then on can for the lid sides will give you multiple coats, and two for the firebox.

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

With the three cans I do at about three coats on the on the lid sides and firebox. So if you are doing two colors then on can for the lid sides will give you multiple coats, and two for the firebox.

I'm painting sides of the lid and firebox same color, but am also going to put down some high heat primer before, so I think ill get 2 cans of primer and 3 cans of paint.
I just wanted to get a ballpark of how many cans it'll take.

 

[Bruce]

Kyle I think you will have plenty. I pretty do what Jason does on his. I use about three coats on the fire box and the lid end caps. Sometimes 4 coats but with primer, I think three is plenty. Your paint supply should be fine for your grill.

 

[Jason in CA]

I just re-read my two posts. I need to stop trusting talk-to-text. otherwise, once you decipher what it's supposed to say...

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

In case anyone reads this thread in the future I wanted to share the link of another thread I created, related to this rehab:
https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?79745-Dimensions-of-assembled-E-310-Sidewinder

For now, I'm going to postpone my plans of repainting and rebuilding this grill. I might finish the rehab if my father wants it. He has been using a Silver A that I rehabbed for him about 10 years. I still have all of the parts to make this a whole grill, so I'll probably end of finishing it regardless because I hate having half finished projects laying around.

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

So now that it’s warming up outside I decided to get a little work in on this rehab.

I just finished grinding down all the metal frame and body pieces.
I knew the floor pan was hopeless. And also one of the sides was trash. I cut off the side panel away from the frame legs...
I thought the main frame legs would be salvageable, but one is in pretty rough shape.

Keep in mind this will be a working grill, I’m not selling it. I’d like it to look nice, but don’t care about restoring to original condition, which is why I’m going with wood floor and side.

here is the bottom of one of the front legs, I grinded down most the rust and as you can see the plastic piece the caster fits in is visible.




Any ideas on patchworking a fix here?
I don’t have a welder, and don’t want to drop a lot of money into this grill.
Maybe some mix of JB Weld and some strips of metal?

 

[Bruce]

I don't think JB weld is going to work there. If you just want to cobble job it (not necessarily a bad thing), maybe a couple worm screw clamps like on a radiator hose. Otherwise I would look for a donor grill that has a decent frame. If you look and wait, you should be able to find one fairly easily.

 

[LMichaels]

Not directly on the rust. Perhaps you can buy some tubing one size larger and another the same size as the frame. Make a sleeve from the larger tubing and use a product like JB to hold it in place. I am sure once painted it would be nearly unnoticeable. Myself not being a welder it's how I would handle it. I would also liberally use some POR15 or Rust Encapsulator in the area so much the better then paint right over that

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

Not directly on the rust. Perhaps you can buy some tubing one size larger and another the same size as the frame. Make a sleeve from the larger tubing and use a product like JB to hold it in place. I am sure once painted it would be nearly unnoticeable. Myself not being a welder it's how I would handle it. I would also liberally use some POR15 or Rust Encapsulator in the area so much the better then paint right over that

Not a bad idea... need to figure out how to work with that door hinge bracket though.... I do have some rust encapsulater spray I plan on using along with primer
I’ll head over to Home Depot and see what they have to work with

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

Found a 1” piece of angled aluminum. Going to run it the length of the cruddy leg. Will bolt it in the legs in a couple spots where the metal is solid. Also going to lather in some JB Weld into that rusted out area. The base of the caster has basically fused to the bottom of the leg, so I’m just going to work in some JB Weld there and then put the angled aluminum over it. Luckily the bad corner is opposite the nub where the door hinge nut fits on.

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

I used this VHT product. It sprayed on clear, but dried up black which I thought was pretty cool.

 

[Bruce]

Sounds interesting. Keep us posted on how it works out for you..

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

After hitting the bad spots with the rust converter I’m spraying the frame metal pieces with some self etching primer. Going two coats with it.

here are a couple pieces after coat 1

 

[Kyle in Woodstock]

After I get all the pieces primed and get the JB Weld on that trouble area along with the angled aluminum I’m going to paint final coat in this color



FYI, this paint is much cheaper if you buy from Hone Depot using store pickup option rather than going thru Amazon.