LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2


 
Going to get around to putting the actual link meter onto the router on monday or Tuesday sometime.

A few more questions. I loaded the following
Hetermeter.cpp.hex

I also flashed the WRT54g with the
linkmeter-wrt54g-squashfs.bin

is there anything else I need to flash or do? I see the files heater meter.cpp.hexA and a linkmeter-brcm47xx-squash.trx.

Just want to make sure I didn't miss anything.
 
Originally posted by Kevin Scott:
I open the "heatmeter.ino" file in the development environment and try to compile it and I get a number of errors that indicate that required files are missing (I believe that they are the files in the Library's sub folder). Obviously as a Newoob, I am failing to complete some required step.
Click to expand...
It's in the wiki: "The libraries may need to be copied / linked to your Arduino library directory depending on where you installed the source. On Windows this is under %USERPROFILE%/Documents/Arduino/Libraries."

I'll admit it even took me a while before I figured out how all the Arduino stuff worked. It is made even more complicated by the fact that you've got to deal with OpenWrt *and* a custom board.
 
Originally posted by Dennis C:
A few more questions. I loaded the following
Hetermeter.cpp.hex

I also flashed the WRT54g with the
linkmeter-wrt54g-squashfs.bin

is there anything else I need to flash or do? I see the files heater meter.cpp.hexA and a linkmeter-brcm47xx-squash.trx.
Click to expand...
Nope that's it! The .bin file is just the .trx file with a special wrapper that allows it to be flashed from TFTP. You can flash a .trx with the "sysupgrade" utility in OpenWrt without having to TFTP again (although it seems to only work about 50% of the time). The heatermeter.cpp.hexA is for v3.0 HeaterMeter hardware, which has a different LCD controller chip.
 
Originally posted by Dennis C:
Going to get around to putting the actual link meter onto the router on monday or Tuesday sometime.

A few more questions. I loaded the following
Hetermeter.cpp.hex

I also flashed the WRT54g with the
linkmeter-wrt54g-squashfs.bin

is there anything else I need to flash or do? I see the files heater meter.cpp.hexA and a linkmeter-brcm47xx-squash.trx.

Just want to make sure I didn't miss anything.
Click to expand...

Just did my Router this morning, it took a few minutes to flash and another few minutes to set it up to talk to my primary router.

you can even see it, although I dont have the heatermeter finished yet, until I turn off the router at

Heatermeter.servebeer.com
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dennis C:
A few more questions. I loaded the following
Hetermeter.cpp.hex

I also flashed the WRT54g with the
linkmeter-wrt54g-squashfs.bin

is there anything else I need to flash or do? I see the files heater meter.cpp.hexA and a linkmeter-brcm47xx-squash.trx.
Click to expand...
Nope that's it! The .bin file is just the .trx file with a special wrapper that allows it to be flashed from TFTP. You can flash a .trx with the "sysupgrade" utility in OpenWrt without having to TFTP again (although it seems to only work about 50% of the time). The heatermeter.cpp.hexA is for v3.0 HeaterMeter hardware, which has a different LCD controller chip. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was wondering what the .HexA was now I know I should have did that one instead of the .hex
icon_smile.gif
 
Nope that's it! The .bin file is just the .trx file with a special wrapper that allows it to be flashed from TFTP. You can flash a .trx with the "sysupgrade" utility in OpenWrt without having to TFTP again (although it seems to only work about 50% of the time). The heatermeter.cpp.hexA is for v3.0 HeaterMeter hardware, which has a different LCD controller chip.
Click to expand...

I should go and put the HexA on then before I start doing any configurations? Or is the normal Hex fine for the 3.2 board?
 
Originally posted by Dennis C:
I should go and put the HexA on then before I start doing any configurations? Or is the normal Hex fine for the 3.2 board?
Click to expand...
Nope, the .hex is what you want for a v3.2 board.
 
Originally posted by John Bostwick:
put the library files(jeelib,ShiftRegLCD) into the library folder in the arduino-1.0.1.
Click to expand...

Thanks John,this worked like a Champ. I've been working in IT for almost 20years and this project makes me feel like a complete novice. Humbling to say the least... Usually the frustration hits about 11pm after fighting with stuff for about 4 Hrs...
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
It's in the wiki: "The libraries may need to be copied / linked to your Arduino library directory depending on where you installed the source. On Windows this is under %USERPROFILE%/Documents/Arduino/Libraries."

I'll admit it even took me a while before I figured out how all the Arduino stuff worked. It is made even more complicated by the fact that you've got to deal with OpenWrt *and* a custom board.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bryan,I don't know how I missed it but I did...
 
Originally posted by Shane Woessner:
houston we have a problem....... this is the supply to my fan jack....guessing I need thicker wire
Click to expand...
Holy smokes is what I'd say. I use an RCA cable to run my fan, but the wires inside are only 26AWG stranded, and the power on the PCB goes through like a 20mil copper trace so I'm shocked it didn't burn up the board.
 
This is probably 6th time using the linkmeter. Only thing I can come up with is that I was trying to run my smoker at 325° where I usually run it at 225°. The linkmeter might not be suitable for this size cooker
icon_confused.gif
 
I have everything hooked up but im having a problem with communication between the router and the heatermeter.

I have the heatermeter working, perfectly, even with my bigger Optrex display.

But, its not communicating withe the router.

Any suggestions of what i should try

Nevermind i figured it out
icon_mad.gif
I thought i looked over the board and had all resisters soldered on, I forgot R2 and that happends to be a 4.7k for the TX line.

But, in the process of trying to figure it out I lost another router
icon_eek.gif
and will have to wait a bit until i can get one on either Ebay or craiglist
 
Originally posted by Shane Woessner:
This is probably 6th time using the linkmeter. Only thing I can come up with is that I was trying to run my smoker at 325° where I usually run it at 225°. The linkmeter might not be suitable for this size cooker
icon_confused.gif
Click to expand...

What kind of smoker and size of blower?

I use a 28cfm(BFB1012HH)on my UDS and it has no problem getting to 300+
 
I was able to get the router working, somehow, but the WIFI wont connect.

It can see my main router, except it wont turn on the wifi and when I try it just hangs.

And it still does not communicate with the heatermeter even after installing the resister.

I have left the heatermeter on all night(burn-in) and it runs great. Atleast I can use it today to cook something.
icon_smile.gif
 
Have everything done on the PCB and flashed the AVR; the router is up and running with LinkMeter code. Plugged in probes and they are working/registering. Everything works except the LCD, getting power as the back-light is on, but just a blank screen. I've dug around on the forum a bit but wondering if anyone else has seen this and knows a fix. Here's a pic.

IMG_0467.JPG


Thanks.
 
Adjust R6, its the contrast for the lcd display.
Same issue alot of us ran into!

Originally posted by Kyle Stierwalt:
Have everything done on the PCB and flashed the AVR; the router is up and running with LinkMeter code. Plugged in probes and they are working/registering. Everything works except the LCD, getting power as the back-light is on, but just a blank screen. I've dug around on the forum a bit but wondering if anyone else has seen this and knows a fix. Here's a pic.

IMG_0467.JPG


Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, Neil, appreciate the help...when I adjust this to the point where "character boxes" show it basically just fills each box with pixels, so I guess I should say each box is black, not blank.

I'll take a picture tonight when I get home after work.

Originally posted by Neil Mager:
Adjust R6, its the contrast for the lcd display.
Same issue alot of us ran into!

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kyle Stierwalt:
Have everything done on the PCB and flashed the AVR; the router is up and running with LinkMeter code. Plugged in probes and they are working/registering. Everything works except the LCD, getting power as the back-light is on, but just a blank screen. I've dug around on the forum a bit but wondering if anyone else has seen this and knows a fix. Here's a pic.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
Bro tip: Solder your resistors to the bottom of the button board. Otherwise you won't be able to get it to mount flush enough to have the button protrude through the router casing. Unrelated but when I saw your picture it reminded me because I just did my button board last night.
 
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