Large Yellow Flames on LP Grill - Can't figure out the issue.

[DL-Nebraska]

Hopefully it's alright if I high-jack this thread a little... I picked up this used Genesis (guessing it's around 8 years old). I replaced the heat deflectors and flavorizer bars and when I tried it out for about 10 minutes everything above the flames got a pretty heavy layer of soot on it. The fames were pretty much completely orange (pretty much just like OP's). I've since cleaned the burners with a steel bristle brush (in the direction of the slits) an well as removed the burner tubes and bushed the mesh intakes. The photos are from after the cleaning showing it on high and low. There's definitely a lot of more blue in the flames, but I'm not sure if I've fully addressed the problem or not...

Does this look like it should, or what should my next steps be (replace burner tubes or try a new regulator maybe)? Thanks!!

 

[Jon Tofte]

Looks like a botched conversion. Is that a possibility?

 

[LMichaels]

Yeah that is a NG grill running on LP

 

[DanHoo]

Hopefully it's alright if I high-jack this thread a little... I picked up this used Genesis (guessing it's around 8 years old). I replaced the heat deflectors and flavorizer bars and when I tried it out for about 10 minutes everything above the flames got a pretty heavy layer of soot on it. The fames were pretty much completely orange (pretty much just like OP's). I've since cleaned the burners with a steel bristle brush (in the direction of the slits) an well as removed the burner tubes and bushed the mesh intakes. The photos are from after the cleaning showing it on high and low. There's definitely a lot of more blue in the flames, but I'm not sure if I've fully addressed the problem or not...

Does this look like it should, or what should my next steps be (replace burner tubes or try a new regulator maybe)? Thanks!!

View attachment 78530View attachment 78531

Hi DL,

The grill looks like it is a 2011 to 2016 E310. Can you look inside the cabinet for a sticker that will show the model number, serial number and if it was originally LP or NG? The sticker is inside on the vertical part going up to hold the grease drip tray.

If the sticker is not there, can you post a pic of the inside of the cabinet? If it was originally an NG grill it will have a solid floor. If it was originally an LP grill it will have a cut out for the tank.

It might be a botched NG to LP conversion, or the burners might be clogged at the spider screens.

 

[LMichaels]

If the burners were clogged there would be some pretty yellow flames, but those are clearly overpowering everything.

 

[DanHoo]

I've changed my opinion. I think it is a clogged burner spider screen. why did I change my opinion?
Because I just tested it. Pics below are an LP E330. note: these are original LP valves, not converted from NG.

One main burner on high:




Same burner on high with my thumb blocking the burner screen. No other adjustments.







And back to normal

 

[LMichaels]

Except the OP's shots clearly show a blue base to the flames. If you choke the air off the flame gets big orange and sooty on LP. But if you're over powering the burner(s) it will still have a blue base but be very tall and orange tops. But, who knows? Maybe it's the camera the OP used?

 

[DL-Nebraska]

So after my initial post (before seeing any replies), I tried adjusting the tubes air openings. They were probably 1/4 - 1/3 open, I opened them a little and saw that the flames were slightly more blue, so I tried opening them all the way and this is what they looked like on low:


and high:


Air intake screens completely open:


Seems a lot better, but I don't think it's where it should be. I think my camera is pretty accurately picking up how they appear.

Label and inside:


I see in the lower left cell of the table on the label that it says "Natural", so I assume that means this grill was originally setup for natural gas, not LP?

Here is the end of the burner tube and gas output from the manifold into the burner tube:



I'm assuming that my problem is that the LP conversion wasn't done correctly or completely... Do I need a smaller orifice to limit gas coming out of the manifold and/or different burner tubes? It looks like the orifice is hex and just threads into the manifold?

Any advice on next steps would be greatly appreciated! Assuming my tubes are alright, I imagine I'll need to restrict the air input once other issues are corrected. How will I know if it's too lean? Will the flames be blue, but just not very strong, or will I have issues getting it to ignite?

Thanks again all!

 

[Jon Tofte]

It doesn't look right and does look like someone's "conversion" was to just change the connector to and LP one.

I will let our resident expert @LMichaels weigh in with authority. Ideally, you should swap out that manifold with a real LP one that has orifices and valves that are designed for LP. I don't know the valves used on that grill, so while it would be tempting to just swap out the orifices, that may not adequately address your problem. Don't feel bad, we see this a lot!

 

[DanHoo]

Jon and Larry's assessments are correct, it looks like a botched conversion.

I can see the AA date code on the serial number which means it is a 2011 E310 Natural Gas.

The best way to fix this is to replace the valves with LP valves.

You can get three valves for $30 each:

Weber Genesis 300 Series (2011-2016) Grill Parts: "Propane" Main Burner Control Valve, Genesis 300 Series (Model Years 2011-2016) | grillparts.com | BBQ Repair and Replacement Parts

Weber Genesis 300 Series (2011-2016) BBQ parts: "Propane" Main Burner Control Valve, Genesis 300 Series (Model Years 2011-2016)

www.grillparts.com

Or the complete manifold with valves for $99

Weber Genesis 300 Series (2011-2016) Grill Parts: Propane (LP) Manifold Assembly, Genesis E-310 (2011-2016) | grillparts.com | BBQ Repair and Replacement Parts

Weber Genesis 300 Series (2011-2016) BBQ parts: Propane (LP) Manifold Assembly, Genesis E-310 (2011-2016)

www.grillparts.com

 

[DanHoo]

Interesting that the slide out drip pan has a heat shield on it. my NG E330 did not.

And clearly this is an NG cabinet because it does not have the floor cut out for the tank.

 

[DanHoo]

@DL-Nebraska Since the floor of your cabinet is not cut out for the propane tank, I suggest moving the tank outside the cabinet.

I did this on one I converted and I love having the tank outside. much easier to put the tank on and off the hanger and easier to open and close the tank valve.

Here's a pic and below is link to the details including the part number for the tank hanger

Outboarding the propane tank on a 2016 Genesis E330

My E330 was converted from NG to LP. I've been putting off cutting a hole in the floor so the propane tank would mount properly on the tank hanger / scale. When I saw @JohnS FL restore his 2009 E310 and relocate the tank outboard on the RH side, I decided to move the tank outside on my E330...

tvwbb.com

 

[DL-Nebraska]

@DL-Nebraska Since the floor of your cabinet is not cut out for the propane tank, I suggest moving the tank outside the cabinet.

I did this on one I converted and I love having the tank outside. much easier to put the tank on and off the hanger and easier to open and close the tank valve.

Here's a pic and below is link to the details including the part number for the tank hanger

View attachment 78610

Outboarding the propane tank on a 2016 Genesis E330

My E330 was converted from NG to LP. I've been putting off cutting a hole in the floor so the propane tank would mount properly on the tank hanger / scale. When I saw @JohnS FL restore his 2009 E310 and relocate the tank outboard on the RH side, I decided to move the tank outside on my E330...

tvwbb.com

Great suggestion!

 

[DanHoo]

while it would be tempting to just swap out the orifices, that may not adequately address your problem. Don't feel bad, we see this a lot!

Jon, in 2021 I swapped out orifices on my 2016 E330 NG to get it to run on LP. I wanted to change the valves yet I could not find an LP version for sale at a reasonable price due to supply chain woes. I think one was on fleaBay for $300.

A year later I acquired an LP manifold from the same year E330 and I compared them side by side and documented it in the thread below.

Larry's also compared valves on another model but I don't recall which one. The thread below also links to Chris' post on conversions which is a good read and I'll link it again here just for good measure

HOW TO: Gas Conversion

Over the past few years, we have seen more and more people refurbishing vintage Weber gas grills, and along with this comes an increasing number of questions about gas conversion between liquid propane (LP) and natural gas (NG). In the old days, Weber would sell you the parts needed to convert...

tvwbb.com

E330 NG and LP manifold and valve side by side comparison

I finally found an original 2016 Genesis E330 LP manifold for a fair price. AR date code. Last year I converted my E330 NG to LP using orifices and a regulator as I could not find a manifold in stock anywhere. It is also a 2016 AR date code. I have the original NG orifices and hose from my...

tvwbb.com

 

[DL-Nebraska]

Jon and Larry's assessments are correct, it looks like a botched conversion.

I can see the AA date code on the serial number which means it is a 2011 E310 Natural Gas.

The best way to fix this is to replace the valves with LP valves.

You can get three valves for $30 each:

Weber Genesis 300 Series (2011-2016) Grill Parts: "Propane" Main Burner Control Valve, Genesis 300 Series (Model Years 2011-2016) | grillparts.com | BBQ Repair and Replacement Parts

Weber Genesis 300 Series (2011-2016) BBQ parts: "Propane" Main Burner Control Valve, Genesis 300 Series (Model Years 2011-2016)

www.grillparts.com

Or the complete manifold with valves for $99

Weber Genesis 300 Series (2011-2016) Grill Parts: Propane (LP) Manifold Assembly, Genesis E-310 (2011-2016) | grillparts.com | BBQ Repair and Replacement Parts

Weber Genesis 300 Series (2011-2016) BBQ parts: Propane (LP) Manifold Assembly, Genesis E-310 (2011-2016)

www.grillparts.com

It seems like it would be easier to just replace the 3 values rather than having to pull the whole manifold, unless there would be additional benefit to replacing the whole manifold unit?

Also, I came across this video where he uses these orifices for the LP conversion. Unless you all think it's bad idea, I'm considering trying this first since it's a small fraction of the price of 3 valves.

Thanks again!

 

[DanHoo]

It seems like it would be easier to just replace the 3 values rather than having to pull the whole manifold, unless there would be additional benefit to replacing the whole manifold unit?

Yeah, replacing the valves is a little easier. You need to loosen the manifold to be able to remove the valves.

Also, I came across this video where he uses these orifices for the LP conversion. Unless you all think it's bad idea, I'm considering trying this first since it's a small fraction of the price of 3 valves.

Thanks again!

replacing the valves is best. You can get the grill to work with an orifice swap, but it will not work as well.

I tried it for about a year and it worked OK, but it works better now with the proper valves.

 

[LMichaels]

Been away all day (dad to special Doc VERY far from my place). Anyway, in MOST cases on Weber they use exclusive valves for each fuel type. Why? IDK. Likely to force people into another grill. Bottom line I have come across in many conversions VERY few Weber grills regardless of model that could be converted with simple orifice swaps. Somehow it escapes me why one would think pulling a manifold, disassembling it and reassembling it to replace valves would be easier than simply swapping the whole thing for correct one with correct fittings for gas being used. Go ahead...............I'm waiting for this one

 

[DanHoo]

Somehow it escapes me why one would think pulling a manifold, disassembling it and reassembling it to replace valves would be easier than simply swapping the whole thing for correct one with correct fittings for gas being used. Go ahead...............I'm waiting for this one

Larry,

the valves come off easily with one bolt from the bottom

removing the manifold means you need to remove and replace other stuff and that takes more time. other stuff is heat shield and the igniter wires, and the flare nut line on the hard line to the tank.

Neither is hard, however having done this a couple of times it is easier and faster to just swap out the valves.

Here's a pic with the knobs, lower wind screen and control panel removed showing the "other stuff"




This is the one bolt per valve to remove and replace.

 

[LMichaels]

Never knew that. Never touched one of those. Only ones I ever saw/worked on valve is screwed into manifold

 

[Jon Tofte]

I think it is a whole different ballgame with the newer Genesis grills. On the old ones a manifold swap is obviously very easy and would be the quickest ticket. Now all the electronic igniter stuff is integrated with the manifold making it a more complex replacement on a newer grill.