Is this a continuous valve? Genesis II NG to LP


 
I think you might be about as optimized as possible with the modified parts you are using. I actually don't think you are too far off regular performance. IMO: 700 is too high for these grills. I would say 550-600 is your sweet spot and you should not expect to get to max temp in under 20 minutes. I find my grills will get to low 200's with one burner on low and others off. That is a good bottom end, I think. This is using a remote grate thermometer and not the lid thermometer.
 
Bruce said:
I think you might be about as optimized as possible with the modified parts you are using. I actually don't think you are too far off regular performance. IMO: 700 is too high for these grills. I would say 550-600 is your sweet spot and you should not expect to get to max temp in under 20 minutes. I find my grills will get to low 200's with one burner on low and others off. That is a good bottom end, I think. This is using a remote grate thermometer and not the lid thermometer.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks Bruce. Ok, with those numbers to compare I can see that I am doing good.

Yeah just using the lid thermometer, in the market for a remote one. I use a thermapen for checking the temp on meats, but wanted something for ambient temp and continuous meat temp, without getting destroyed in the grill. I will peruse the forum, figure one has been suggested.
 
One of the top of the line remote thermometers is the Thermoworks Smoke. They have an upgrade to that as well. They also go on sale fairly often but regular price is about $100. They were as low as $59, I think a few weeks ago. I have one and it is a great 2 probe unit.
www.thermoworks.com

Smoke® Remote BBQ Alarm Thermometer

Specializing in cool, unique and professional temperature tools. Super-Fast thermocouples, thermistors, infrared thermometers, data logging and more.
www.thermoworks.com www.thermoworks.com

Themopro has a 4 probe unit (TP829). I sprung for one as I like their instant read therms and I liked the 4 probe idea. I used it one time so far. It took some time to learn to use and is a little more complicated than I like, but worked great. I am sure it will be a lot easier to use after I use it a few more times. I think it was $45.
buythermopro.com

ThermoPro TP829 | Wireless Bluetooth Meat Thermometer | Thermopro

Super Long Range Wireless Meat Thermometer with 4 Probes 【Best in class 1000 feet range】: Equipped with the strongest and most reliable in RF technology, grill thermometer extends range further than ever before. With 1000FT of freedom to take care of other tasks while your digital food...
buythermopro.com buythermopro.com

Maverick makes a unit similar to the Theroworks Smoke too. And another option that is popular on this forum is the Meater which has wireless probes which makes it convenient and able to be used on a rotisserie unlike all the wired probe offerings.
 
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Bruce said:
One of the top of the line remote thermometers is the Thermoworks Smoke. They have an upgrade to that as well. They also go on sale fairly often but regular price is about $100. They were as low as $59, I think a few weeks ago. I have one and it is a great 2 probe unit.
www.thermoworks.com

Smoke® Remote BBQ Alarm Thermometer

Specializing in cool, unique and professional temperature tools. Super-Fast thermocouples, thermistors, infrared thermometers, data logging and more.
www.thermoworks.com www.thermoworks.com

Themopro has a 4 probe unit (TP829). I sprung for one as I like their instant read therms and I liked the 4 probe idea. I used it one time so far. It took some time to learn to use and is a little more complicated than I like, but worked great. I am sure it will be a lot easier to use after I use it a few more times. I think it was $45.
buythermopro.com

ThermoPro TP829 | Wireless Bluetooth Meat Thermometer | Thermopro

Super Long Range Wireless Meat Thermometer with 4 Probes 【Best in class 1000 feet range】: Equipped with the strongest and most reliable in RF technology, grill thermometer extends range further than ever before. With 1000FT of freedom to take care of other tasks while your digital food...
buythermopro.com buythermopro.com

Maverick makes a unit similar to the Theroworks Smoke too. And another option that is popular on this forum is the Meater which has wireless probes which makes it convenient and able to be used on a rotisserie unlike all the wired probe offerings.
Click to expand...
Thanks Bruce for the info. Hmmm, that Smoke looks interesting. I like my Thermapen MK4. Tried an off brand on Amazon and its temp reads were not accurate. Friend told me about the thermapen and it was on sale, Sold! Not sure why I didn’t check earlier, probably thought it was out of my price range, Smoke X4 and signals are. Smoke price reasonable, but if I find it on sale for that price, will be Sold!

I have looked at the thermapro 4 probe unit, but have been on the fence. Great price, but some reviews of bad probes/units. Although if you register, you get a 3 year warranty, not bad considering a fridge gives you one and breaks in 2 these days. Good to hear from someone directly that it works.

The meater was also interesting (dual temp and smartapp), but the probe was large. Most of my steaks from my 1/4 cow seemed to thin for that probe. Can totally see how it can help rotisserie users.
 
LMichaels said:
Here's the deal. As I indicated earlier. Given the photos and my lack of familiarity with the newer Genesis lines I indicated you could give it a try. Worst case is you would not have the control you would like to have. Well you have worst case. It's not unsafe. But, it is inconvenient. At least you don't have a potential bomb waiting for you when you open the lid. It's your decision if it can be lived with.
LP and NG are similar in some ways BUT in an appliance they behave quite differently as you have now witnessed. So now you have a choice. Get an actual LP manifold or live with this. In either case you will not have an unsafe appliance
Click to expand...
Yep no issues here with how things have turned out. I was made well aware that there was a good chance things could go sideways.

I would say thanks for looking at the valves and the advice. Has helped me tremendously on this discovery process. Was just checking to see if going forward would get diminishing returns and that this is good enough, so far the consensus sounds like it is.

I do feel this is has worked out better than buying a $200 LP grill to get me by. Thanks for your help!
 
I'm a little late to the party but I thought I should chime in, one thing people don't often mention when switching from one gas to the other is the distance the gas control knob is allowed to turn as well as the orifice diameter and regulator setting. Can I make a suggestion? have you thought about just buying orifices from ebay which have correct hole size predrilled? Up here in canada, I've also considered buying natural gas variants of my grill and simply salvage the natural gas components to put into my current grill. I scrapped that idea because I managed to just buy the manifold from weber directly.
 
Hi Yang, knowing what I know now, probably not from eBay, from a quality grill parts store, probably yes. I am sure some of the sellers are precise, but not all. Paying $50 for the orifices that made my grill run too hot would have made me hot under the collar. Of course if a forum recommended them, like this one, then yes.

At this point I am glad I went through this learning process even with all the issues, but not that I had to. There is a price to be paid learning something new whether it’s time, effort, money or your sanity. One thing I would have done differently is invest in a drill press kit for my dremel, to get a more precise drill. Heck I think I saw a whole drill press at Harbor Freight for $80.

I could also learn how to tease a manifold out of Weber without owning the correct fuel grill :). Although I would have bought a grill going from LP to NG. In my region the NG Genesis go for cheap. Just saw 2 good condition NG Genesis II 310 for $200-250 last week, would have just bought one of those. The LP versions go for $400+ in varying condition.
 
Fired up the grill for its first real test. Seemed to do OK, probably get better as I get used to the temp control. The wife was happy. Grilling is on again. Thanks for all your help!

F0E2828C-5E31-4F16-8C60-E24C794642A5.jpeg
 
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Well guess what the cat dragged in or something like that.

www.thebbqdepot.com

Weber Genesis II E-310 LP Manifold (Year 2017) - 66303

Genuine Weber Genesis II E-310 Propane Manifold (Year 2017) part 66303 comes with valves. Available at TheBBQDepot.com.
www.thebbqdepot.com www.thebbqdepot.com

I just want to make sure that this fits my 66010001 Genesis II E-310 (2017). I believe it is, but I wanted another set of eyes to make sure, as it is a final sale.

Thanks!
 
I just went through the same issue. On ebay I bought the kit of orifaces and regulator. The flame was always too high. Weber will not sell you the propane manifold because you have a NG grill registered.

There are at least two types of valves.

The best thing I did was buy a genuine Weber propane manifold from an after market seller. I just changed it out and it works perfectly.

On the side burner, I just changer the orafice and it works good.

I wish I had gotten the manifold to start with.

As best I can tell, the burner tubes are the same
 
Joe Widmayer said:
As best I can tell, the burner tubes are the same
Click to expand...
There is no difference between NG and LP burner tubes, the difference is where you guys have isolated it: in the orifices and sometimes inside the valves. Good work, and yes total manifold replacement is the gold standard for a conversion. Then you are just two bolts away from interchanging too.
 
Yep finally got time to change my manifold and it works well. Just had to fiddle with the venturi to get the right flame. It gave me more control over the mid and low flame settings. Although, at high I think I see the flavor bars turning a bit red at the edge, not sure if its an optical illusion or I just didn't notice before.

I do wish that Weber would sell and support a conversion kit. The parts are all existing on their site and I would have bought them straight from Weber if I could have. I can do the swap, than a 10 yr old can do it. No offense to 10 year olds....
 
JimWS said:
Yep finally got time to change my manifold and it works well. Just had to fiddle with the venturi to get the right flame. It gave me more control over the mid and low flame settings. Although, at high I think I see the flavor bars turning a bit red at the edge, not sure if its an optical illusion or I just didn't notice before.

I do wish that Weber would sell and support a conversion kit. The parts are all existing on their site and I would have bought them straight from Weber if I could have. I can do the swap, than a 10 yr old can do it. No offense to 10 year olds....
Click to expand...
Hey @JimWS I'm curious, after the manifold swap, what are your single burner low and two burner low temps?
Also curious if the time to heat to say 500F is the same.

I converted my E 330 from NG to LP using orifices because I couldn't find a manifold last spring and have similar temps as you were reporting before the manifold swap.
 
It's normal for bars to get a slight glow. The thing with doing orifices only (assuming you size them accordingly and don't use those goofy adjustable regulators is full on high is always fine. The issues come at low/med
 
DanHoo said:
Hey @JimWS I'm curious, after the manifold swap, what are your single burner low and two burner low temps?
Also curious if the time to heat to say 500F is the same.

I converted my E 330 from NG to LP using orifices because I couldn't find a manifold last spring and have similar temps as you were reporting before the manifold swap.
Click to expand...
Hi DanHoo, with the LP manifold, time to 500F is about 7-9 min. I stay steady at 500-550 with one burner on mid, one on low, and one off. Haven't measured single burner temp.

With orifice only I had to turn off burners to control heat. Which meant one burner on full bore, since I didn't have much control, and the others off. Boring a smaller hole on the orifice helped somewhat with the heat, but still wasn't normal.

Hope your able to find a manifold. It took me a while to find one. I tinkered with the orifice only solution while I waited, but I could never get it to a place I liked.
 
With the bottoms rusting out of so many of those grills it should be getting easier and easier to find a donner grill.
 
Out here in the Desert of CA, the closed frame genesis 3xx models don't seem to be rusting as badly. Anything under $200 for a NS front control 330 is sold in about a day. I've only seen one that was horribly rusted, but it was a 310 not a 330 without the sear burner valve. I almost grabbed it anyway, but it was in a bad part of town about 40 miles away and pouring rain at the time.

I am OK with my low-temp on my converted 330. I think one burner on low get's me about 275 ( lid thermometer). It will do a nice indirect cook if I don't feel like lighting coal. I don't use it for low and slow so unless a manifold or valves show up for nearly free I won't likely change anything.
 
It doesn't make sense to me that you can take a valve that was designed for one system and use it in another system that is 1.5x the pressure and 2x the volatility and not have issues with the low end of things, unless the low end has an adjustable stop. The way I see it, a valve has an adjustable range, and if you just up the pressure by itself, no other changes, that adjustable range is going to shift upwards, too. I'm no expert, but that just seems logical to me.
 
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