Is this a continuous valve? Genesis II NG to LP


 
J

JimWS

TVWBB Member
Hi All

First post after lurking and reading all the great info and advice.

Looking to convert my Genesis II e310 (66010001) from NG to LP. I moved from a house that had a gas stub out to one that doesn’t. From reading here on the boards that would mean a manifold change, unless I have a continuous valve. Since the manifold cost a few bucks and is hard to procure from the manufacturer, I figured I would check the valve. I have attached a pic of the valve, it looks to me to be continuous, but wanted some seasoned eyes to take a look.

If it is continuous, then I believe all I need would be the propane oriface, propane hose, and tank holder/weigh attachment to complete the conversion?

Thanks!
 

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Sure, here some different shots. Valves are small, hard to get a good shot.
 

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They look like more fixed than variable. They're odd. The ones on Summits (2nd generation) I have done had tapered slots. The Genesis ones I have done had 3 orifices drilled in. These look like a combo. If it was mine I would TRY a simple orifice swap with the caveat that if it did not work correctly grab a new manifold. Since you want to go from NG to LP it will not be "dangerous" it will simply be inconvenient if it does not work correctly. It will not "throttle down" if you get my drift. IOW it will run too hot at low and medium. If you were going the other way I would not recommend trying it or at the least being VERY VERY cautious. As going the other way you can experience a "flame out" even though gas is still flowing. The unburned gas can/will collect under the hood and when you lift the lid it can cause a fireball.
As for the burners don't bother buying new ones. They should work fine
 
LMichaels said:
They look like more fixed than variable. They're odd. The ones on Summits (2nd generation) I have done had tapered slots. The Genesis ones I have done had 3 orifices drilled in. These look like a combo. If it was mine I would TRY a simple orifice swap with the caveat that if it did not work correctly grab a new manifold. Since you want to go from NG to LP it will not be "dangerous" it will simply be inconvenient if it does not work correctly. It will not "throttle down" if you get my drift. IOW it will run too hot at low and medium. If you were going the other way I would not recommend trying it or at the least being VERY VERY cautious. As going the other way you can experience a "flame out" even though gas is still flowing. The unburned gas can/will collect under the hood and when you lift the lid it can cause a fireball.
As for the burners don't bother buying new ones. They should work fine
Click to expand...
Thanks LMichaels for the information and advice! I will give it a go and check the throttle down to see if it works.

Not sure if it matters where I buy the orifices, but if it does I would take a recommendation.

I figure the LP version of my Weber (66010001) is the Weber 61010001. In that case the regulator hose I need is a 67069.

Thanks a ton!
 
LMichaels said:

Anderson & Forrester | Orifices | Natural Gas and Propane Products

Anderson & Forrester, original equipment manufacturing of natural gas and propane products, such as: orifices, gauging drills, valves, and so much more
andersonforrester.com andersonforrester.com

Anderson & Forrester | Conversion Chart | Natural Gas & LP

Anderson & Forrester provides a conversion chart to guarantee an easier experience in finding the correct product to fit your needs
andersonforrester.com andersonforrester.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for links!

Whoa, not even sure were to start on the site. Lots of orifices of all shapes and sizes. I believe I need a 7mm orifice and a 58 bit (12,500 BTU per burner), but that info doesn't get me far on this website. I might need to order from a place that is a bit more dumbed down. Like these:

Seems to be he correct for Genesis II e-310 Propane, albeit a bit pricer than some of the ones I saw on Anderson Forrestor site.
CLA Grills: Small 7mm brass spud orifice + $15 if drilled to your specs

Grill Repair: Replacement gas orifice used to convert post-2009 Spirit and Genesis models. Will drill if regulator and hose purchased (+$28)

or All included set

This site has the complete kit: pre-drilled orifices, regulator hose, and shipping included. Priciest option, but everything included. Would have to verify what they mean by drilled to factory specs.
bbqfuelconversions: Conversion Kit For Weber Genesis II E-310/S-310/SE-310(Front Controls)

or All Amazon DIY

Cheapest way to go, but the quality maybe in question
DOZYANT 3.5 Feet Propane Regulator and Hose Universal Grill Regulator
MENSI Propane LPG Gas Brass Jet Nozzles for Propane Grill M6x0.75mm/0.5mm)
Pin Vise Hand Drill Set
Rectorseal Tube No.5 Pipe Thread Sealant
 
IIRC Some folks have been having trouble with excessive pressure from that regulator. There are a lot of regulators out there not set up correctly. Honestly I would buy a Weber one. Yeah still Chinese BUT made to their specs
 
LMichaels said:
IIRC Some folks have been having trouble with excessive pressure from that regulator. There are a lot of regulators out there not set up correctly. Honestly I would buy a Weber one. Yeah still Chinese BUT made to their specs
Click to expand...
Ok, will nix that regulator. Will go for the Weber, which is 67069 for my Genesis II. Don’t mind paying a few extra bucks if I know another product is better. Thanks for the insight.
 
Last edited:
Mack Manning said:
These fit the 3 Genesis II grills I have tinkered with. Same M6 size fit all grill burgers and side burner.

MENSI Propane LPG Gas Pipe Water Heater DIY Burner Parts Brass Jet Nozzles for Propane 10Pcs Per Pack for Propane Grill Only(M6x0.75mm/0.5mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V5TZGCQ/?tag=tvwb-20
Click to expand...
Thanks Mack. I saw these and was wondering if they actually fit. Will order and drill them out. Need to use a 58 bit, which is just over 1 mm I believe.
 
Bare in mind. When orifices are reamed professionally they use a special type of precision ream not a twist drill. If you're using a twist drill use one size smaller than called for. It will be just about "on the nose"
 
Ok that sounds good, which would then be a 59 drill bit. But let me confirm my numbers/assumptions to make sure everything is kosher.

The 61010001 Weber LP grill was rated at 37,500 BTU, which divided by 3 burners is 12,500 BTU per burner. Using the numbers below from a orifice chart, my number falls right between #57 and #58. I opted to go conservative with #58. But due to my use of a less than precise twist drill, I should opt for the #59 drill bit.

Drill SizeDecimalBTU
590.04111742
580.04212322
570.04312916
 
Yep. I would actually buy more than one BTW. Get yourself maybe 3 under the actual opening size you want going up to 58. So IOW what I do, is I would start at say 61. Give the grill a try and see if it's burning correctly. IOW, it should throttle down to a steady flame on low, on high the grill should get to 500 to 550 in a reasonable time with bars and grates in it. If not try increasing one size. Or get some wire feeler gauges just to be sure of the sizing. Twist bits tend to wobble and can (in my experience) give you a hole 2 sizes larger than you sometimes expect. I also recommend buying quality bits not Hazard Fraught bits. You'll spend about $15 or more on the collection but it will be $$$ well spent. In any case this is the procedure I use. Drill, check with feeler, do a trial run and repeat as necessary. Takes a bit of time but well worth the effort
 
LMichaels said:
Yep. I would actually buy more than one BTW. Get yourself maybe 3 under the actual opening size you want going up to 58. So IOW what I do, is I would start at say 61. Give the grill a try and see if it's burning correctly. IOW, it should throttle down to a steady flame on low, on high the grill should get to 500 to 550 in a reasonable time with bars and grates in it. If not try increasing one size. Or get some wire feeler gauges just to be sure of the sizing. Twist bits tend to wobble and can (in my experience) give you a hole 2 sizes larger than you sometimes expect. I also recommend buying quality bits not Hazard Fraught bits. You'll spend about $15 or more on the collection but it will be $$$ well spent. In any case this is the procedure I use. Drill, check with feeler, do a trial run and repeat as necessary. Takes a bit of time but well worth the effort
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice! It’s not a bad idea to start with a smaller hole and work my way up. Probably take less than half a day for the testing.
 
Ok finally got all the parts. Installed new regulator, drilled and installed orifices, adjusted venturi and this is the outcome, voila:

Hmmm doesn’t look right, but I am no expert. Also turning the knobs does this:

I have some movement, but not sure it’s correct or not. I do think that I may be getting too much propane, as the grill gets up to 500 degrees in 7 minutes. It supposed to take 10-15 min.

I think the hand drill was very imprecise and created a larger hole as LMichaels posted. I did go for smaller drill bit than what was prescribed on the chart, but might have to go even smaller still. I mean it looks like the difference between a #58 and #59 bit is a thousandth of an inch! My shaky hand and twist drill bit of unknown pedigree probably isn’t close to hitting the mark.

Ordering an array of smaller bits. Worth a try or else it looks like a fail.
 
That did look to be burning a bit high and not as much variance between hi and low as I would want. Good blue flames though. Keep us posted if some newly drilled orifices work out.
 
Yeah my opinion as well. Looks like pretty high flame there across the board. However looks are not necessarily how to judge. Try putting everything in it and fire it up. Note the max, turn all down to low not the low.
 
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