I will just leave this here


 
Cody Bratton said:
You are a far braver man than I. I hate those things with every fabric of my being. I will gladly spend $2 to limit my misery :ROFLMAO:
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after doing several hundred of them, you kind of build a method that works pretty good usually. Even if you kind of trash them taking them off, they can normally be fixed with a pair of pliers by bending the cleats back into shape.
 
I assume you start by popping off the plastic caps, and then pull up on the cleats? I have taken these types of retainer from cars and trucks a lot. I used to have drawers full of push nuts and thread cutting nuts. But when we closed up the family business we sold off all the hardware and bench stock (for pennies on the dollar), that I would kill to have now.
 
I try to take them off without the black plastic coming off. If it does, no biggy. I will try to remember to video the next time I do it and post it.
It is not some magic holy grail, but might be what you need make it worth trying.
 
Bruce said:
I try to take them off without the black plastic coming off. If it does, no biggy. I will try to remember to video the next time I do it and post it.
It is not some magic holy grail, but might be what you need make it worth trying.
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Sharing the knowledge is beneficial to us all!
 
Bruce said:
Basically what @Jon Tofte did. Except he used Red RTV to hold the SS panels in place. Drilling a hole into the existing cook box panel will only introduce a new area for rust and corrosion to begin.
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And he used a different model grill. It's FAR easier on a Gen 1 Summit than a Gen 2 or even worse a Gen 3 and beyond
 
How does one get the control knobs off a Genesis 300 without breaking them ?
I've tried pulling from both sides. They won't budge. I'm afraid of breaking them.

Update: I got them off. They just pull off. I pulled evenly on both sides of the knob and worked them side to side a bit and they came off.



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Anyone by chance have a 9972 rotisserie basket they have parts for? lol, one of our drivers asked if I could find a couple of the missing pieces for his. Here is a link to the schematic. I know it is a LONG shot...

Weber Grill Schematics | Weber Grill Models

Weber Schematics - browse product schematics and part lists by entering a serial number, description, or by selecting a product family.
www.weber.com www.weber.com
 
Bruce said:
Basically what @Jon Tofte did. Except he used Red RTV to hold the SS panels in place. Drilling a hole into the existing cook box panel will only introduce a new area for rust and corrosion to begin.
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Red RTV is rated for 650F. Is that enough ?

Just clean and roughen up the old cookbox surface, apply the RTV and clamp the new SS to it ?

I have a TIG welder. If I could get the old cookbox clean I could drill holes in it and spot (plug) weld the new SS to it ? However, welding the new SS only creates a site for corrosion to occur in both the new surface and the old cookbox.
 
SteveRichards said:
Link to a post on his work ? I couldn't find it with Search.
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I have a hard time with search functions on this place. Hopefully someone more skilled than I can help or maybe message Jon Tofte directly and ask him. He actually did it on my old grill I'd literally given up on, and sat under a cover at my house and basically "forgot" about it. I was so disgusted with Weber and how they simply just "walked away" with a "too bad so sad, here's a fake coupon for XX% off on a new Genesis but ONLY if you buy from our site" So, basically I waked away from it
 
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