I will just leave this here


 
Josh Dekubber said:
That seems to make the most sense. Thanks Bruce. Like a lot of those early lids it has held up well especially for being black.
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Josh, likely the reason for that is they used a different pigment or process in the early days. I have a feeling that a 1988 black lid might look better today than a lot of lids manufactured after 2000. Easily could be another victim of the bean counters.
 
Bruce said:
Josh, likely the reason for that is they used a different pigment or process in the early days. I have a feeling that a 1988 black lid might look better today than a lot of lids manufactured after 2000.
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Pretty positive I can identify the difference. There's a slight characteristic change in the finish from the old process to the newer
 
Josh Dekubber said:
Here is a pic of the Mica Green lid and a pic of my Gray lid. My Gray lid seems to fit the criteria of Mica. In that case Bruce I think you may be right that my 1985 metallic black may be custom or very limited run.
View attachment 110270View attachment 110269
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Without seeing those lids in person it almost looks like they are covered in little white dots, which are a version of Weber fade. I have seen that on black lids before and also on old kettles.
 
Steve Hoch said:
It's nearly impossible to get them perfect again, but you did an exceptional job on those.
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Thanks, Steve. I appreciate it. I could pull out some body filler and make them flat as glass, but know that would be an extreme waste of time. Maybe if I ever did a museum piece like some of you have, I’d go all out. But for what these are going on, not worth it! But just a really nice small detail, to me anyways.
 
Steve Hoch said:
Without seeing those lids in person it almost looks like they are covered in little white dots, which are a version of Weber fade. I have seen that on black lids before and also on old kettles.
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I have lids with those dots on them this is something completely different at least in the lids that are in my possession. It's perfectly uniform throughout the entire lid even the parts that are under the lid end caps and Weber emblem.
 
I'm pretty positive now that these are the characteristics of Mica lid colors. Especially after doing research on what Mica is and how it's used with glass and what characteristics it ads. Which would rule out my 1985 metallic black lid from being a Mica.
If anyone has any evidence or information to add to go with this theory or against it I would very happy today learn.
 
Cody Bratton said:
Thanks, Steve. I appreciate it. I could pull out some body filler and make them flat as glass, but know that would be an extreme waste of time. Maybe if I ever did a museum piece like some of you have, I’d go all out. But for what these are going on, not worth it! But just a really nice small detail, to me anyways.
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If you absolutely wanted a perfect one you could just buy a new one, which is what I would do if I was going for perfection. That's not an option on a Genesis 1000 so you have to restore the tank scale if you want it to look decent. Besides looks, stopping further rust is a good reason to pay some attention to them.
 
Josh Dekubber said:
I have lids with those dots on them this is something completely different at least in the lids that are in my possession. It's perfectly uniform throughout the entire lid even the parts that are under the lid end caps and Weber emblem.
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This has always been an interesting topic to me and I certainly believe what you're saying. What makes it so interesting is that exposure to sun isn't the only reason why lids fade. It also has something to do with age and heat. One of the lids you pictured was the gray with the red pinstripes?
 
Steve Hoch said:
This has always been an interesting topic to me and I certainly believe what you're saying. What makes it so interesting is that exposure to sun isn't the only reason why lids fade. It also has something to do with age and heat. One of the lids you pictured was the gray with the red pinstripes?
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Yes. Would you like more pictures or a video.
 
Josh Dekubber said:
Used tank scales come up for sale from time to time but these will still need to be refurbished. I have not seen one for sale that is in new condition of this style.

www.ebay.com

1990's Weber Gas Grill Part - Tank Scale - USED | eBay

I also buy broken down vehicles to part them out. If you are interested in a different part from a vehicle I have, feel free to ask. I have lots of inventory that isn't listed.
www.ebay.com
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I've never seen a new one for sale either, it's been quite a while since Weber has offered them. In fact, Weber produced some Genesis 1000 grills for the 2000 model year that already had the the new style tank scale on them so I think they ran out of the original ones way back then.
 
Steve Hoch said:
More pictures could be helpful. I'm pretty sure Bruce has one of those lids as well. It would be interesting to see some close up pics of his to see if it's the same finish as yours.
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my blue lid sparkles. That’s for sure the mica finish. I’m set that whatever happened on Josh’s 85 lid was either year specific, an employee dinking around (stuff I would do), or a happy little accident.

I learned a lesson painting (I know, it’s not the same as automotive paint but the same airborne contamination principles apply). I had a black fender, and a silver bumper cover both only in base coat to clear at the same time. I painted the fender in the back of the booth, and fender in the front. This is a positive pressure, downdraft paint booth mind you. Even after blowing off and tacking the black fender, after the clear coat there were noticeable silver metallic flakes in the fender. I also think this is why the black dots are common on red heads. Airborne particles bonding to the surface prior to clear coat.
 
Cody Bratton said:
my blue lid sparkles. That’s for sure the mica finish. I’m set that whatever happened on Josh’s 85 lid was either year specific, an employee dinking around (stuff I would do), or a happy little accident.

I learned a lesson painting (I know, it’s not the same as automotive paint but the same airborne contamination principles apply). I had a black fender, and a silver bumper cover both only in base coat to clear at the same time. I painted the fender in the back of the booth, and fender in the front. This is a positive pressure, downdraft paint booth mind you. Even after blowing off and tacking the black fender, after the clear coat there were noticeable silver metallic flakes in the fender. I also think this is why the black dots are common on red heads. Airborne particles bonding to the surface prior to clear coat.
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Whatever happened to the Black metallic lid I'm pretty positive it was on purpose but I also don't think that it is a Mica. I think i have a pretty good idea of what the Mica lids look like now. I would like to see an up close of your blue one Cody. The one that you think might be a Mica
 
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