I will just leave this here


 
Bruce said:
Interesting. So, now you can throw on some ribs, dial it up to 225 and come back three hours later to wrap them and continue cooking them without fear they will be either raw or lumps of charred coal?
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Except I don't wrap anything. But yeah once you get "dialed in" to working with a pellet grill you realize you don't have to bust your buns worrying. It's still a "skill set" but it's a different skill set than other fuels. But there is still a skill set. You can't buy one slap protein on there and expect perfection. As some people think.
 
I have seen a few times here, many have mentioned sanding of the thermoset tables. Curious as to what grit paper you guys use, and what you coat them with prior to sale. I have a few stationary and flip tables soaked in bleach and scrubbed with a scrub daddy (those things are awesome for the plastic end handles on the Silver series).

Some look pretty nice but a couple could use some further attention to bring back some of their luster. I checked the resto-thread and didn't see anything.

Thanks!
 
It depends on how bad the stains or the weathering is on the tables. I usually start with about 100
and work up to 200 grit. Then some good aerospace, 303 or another good automotive vinyl protectant. I like the 303, because it has good u.V protection.
 
Thanks! Aerospace 303, that's what it was! I knew there was a protectant you used. Is it reasonably priced? I have a plastic polish (for headlights) that I want to give a try. I was thinking about 220 and finish with 400 and then a quick machine polish to see how that livens it up or if it shines it up at all. I have a couple that are really rough that I will use as my guinea pigs...
 
Cody Bratton said:
Thanks! Aerospace 303, that's what it was! I knew there was a protectant you used. Is it reasonably priced? I have a plastic polish (for headlights) that I want to give a try. I was thinking about 220 and finish with 400 and then a quick machine polish to see how that livens it up or if it shines it up at all. I have a couple that are really rough that I will use as my guinea pigs...
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Yes a very fine finish would be as true to OEM as possible. As I recall when new those side tables were fairly glossy
 
The one I’m still working to attain has been housed indoors its whole life other than when rolled out for a few hours at a time on Sunday afternoons in the summer. Its tables are deep gray and gorgeous. And the black lid is immaculate.
 
Yes, I do all plastic and vinyl parts with it. It even does a good job of masking the weber fade. But, I don't use it for that.

You can buy it by the gallon and a decent discount. But a single spray bottle goes a long way.
 
Josh Dekubber said:
Price drop
No condiment rack
View attachment 105204
I requested some pics from the seller. I'm seeing fade on top and I already have a Skyline with a little bit of fade on top. Is that what you guys are seeing also?
View attachment 105205View attachment 105206
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I think the "Pimp My Grill" stuff would take care of most of that on the top of hood. Can't say how long it would last under regular use before you would have to reapply. The control panel may need some as well, but I am betting most of what you see is grease/dirt.
 
I used to have a marine vinyl cleaner and protectant that we used on convertible tops, that was one of the most incredible products, and the best part was it contained no silicone (which is absolutely a disaster in auto body industry). They quit making it about 10 years ago, stuff worked miracles on old vinyl tops that looked like the only option was replacement.
 
Cody Bratton said:
I feel like someday I will own a pellet grill. I don't think they are "cheating" as some people say. I don't denounce the art of tending to a fire temp range as I respect that a lot, however if you are telling me I can turn something on, spin some knobs or press some buttons and can essentially walk away from it for a few hours, and it makes tasty food, I consider that a win.
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You can also do that with a gravity feed and still have that charcoal and wood flavor;-)
 
Good point, Joe! I think the one thing is that the mainstream players in the gravity feed arena have some issues with inadequate materials. You can spend quite a bit beefing up a Masterbuilt to be able to handle the high heat for a reasonable life span. Still, this option has a lot of appeal and might be the best for someone strongly committed to charcoal flavor but not willing or able to do long cooks the old-fashioned way.
 
Jon Tofte said:
Good point, Joe! I think the one thing is that the mainstream players in the gravity feed arena have some issues with inadequate materials. You can spend quite a bit beefing up a Masterbuilt to be able to handle the high heat for a reasonable life span. Still, this option has a lot of appeal and might be the best for someone strongly committed to charcoal flavor but not willing or able to do long cooks the old-fashioned way.
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Very true. I did spend $100 on new thick stainless firebox liners, but that has been it. I think of it like the kettle; How many "upgrades do a lot of people around here have? Rotisseries rings, smoke and sears, charcoal rings, diffusers, water pans, etc. Also as it applies to inexpensive to expensive grills, if you keep them clean, dry, and well maintained they last. If you don't, they fall apart, just some sooner rather than later;-)
 
Joe Anshien said:
Very true. I did spend $100 on new thick stainless firebox liners, but that has been it. I think of it like the kettle; How many "upgrades do a lot of people around here have? Rotisseries rings, smoke and sears, charcoal rings, diffusers, water pans, etc. Also as it applies to inexpensive to expensive grills, if you keep them clean, dry, and well maintained they last. If you don't, they fall apart, just some sooner rather than later;-)
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Well said!

I also think that if I had a Masterbuilt - maybe someday - I would stick to low and slow for the most part. I think when you start pushing the high heat you run more risks of metal failure. You did the important part, so as you point out with good care it will likely last as long as could be expected. But used sparingly for high heat I think would extend its life.

I think the same applies to the SmokeFIre and maybe the Searwood pellet grills. Sure, they can both do pretty hot direct grilling, but I think that comes at a cost. It certainly did with the SmokeFire where we saw a lot of failure of internal parts. Some just due to rust, but I think a lot had to do with pushing them to take the place of a gas or regular charcoal grill. Weber definitely promotes that aspect, but if I could afford a new Searwood (or wanted to take a fly on a used SmokeFire) I would seldom use them for direct grilling since I have alternatives readily available. Both the Searwood and the SmokeFire (when working:sneaky:) have shown they can produce excellent low and slow bbq as good as pellet grills costing a lot more. I think I would be content with that.
 
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