HOW TO: Weber Q1xx and Q2xx Regulator Delete


 
Joe Anshien said:
How about screwing the adapter into the hose first? Should not have any escaping propane to smell. Maybe I am missing something... Have you used one before? I have not.
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I haven’t - but I’ve read a bunch of reviews, and I know my own ways well enough to know that sooner or later I’d absent-mindedly screw the adapter onto the bottle with the other end not attached to the hose.
 
Really the only stupid thing the guy did was using a regulator intended for the wrong purpose. Those are meant for high pressure applications like space heaters, turkey fryers and so on NOT for grills.
 
What is now recommended for the low pressure LP hose with regulator and QCC1 (Acme) connector? There seem to be a lot of hoses with questionable reviews; what's best? By chance has a hose come on the market with a 1/8" connection?
 
@Bruce
Thanks for posting this. My Q decided to stop working last weekend. Just as I was about to cook up some fish. I narrowed it down to the regulator then found this helpful thread.
I went with the adapter that @Ed P posted and it’s working well!
Many thanks!
(PS - it used to max out at 500, but just got it to almost 600!)

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Pablo, just be careful. A Q grill can handle only so much heat for extended periods of time. If you see that temp pushing over 600 and you accidentally, or purposely leave it on for a long time or forget and leave it on over night, you could come back to a nuclear melt down.
 
Don’t the new ones go to over 700?
I definitely won’t be leaving it on at full gas for long. Just to sear steaks. I do plan on doing some roasts while camping this fall but that will be at the lowest setting.
 
The newer ones may be able to go to 700. But I imagine the design and materials used in manufacturing the grill take that into account. I did have a Q melt down into the plastic legs after accidentally leaving it on over night. It was a turbo charged Q. It would hit about 700 top end.
 
I upgraded my Q200 this past weekend. I bought an adjustable regulator. Couldn’t find a 3/8 to 1/8 so I used a 3/8 to 1/4 and then used a 1/4 to 1/8 bushing. I just saw this thread today. I had found this blog post from 2018 Upgrading the Weber Q Grill.

I also use Grill Grates on the Q and I think they help tremendously with evening out the heat across the whole surface.
 
Adjustable regulators are not safe they're meant for high output devices i.e. space heaters and the like. Get a REAL true 11"WC regulator
 
SalP said:
I also use Grill Grates on the Q and I think they help tremendously with evening out the heat across the whole surface.
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LMichaels said:
Adjustable regulators are not safe they're meant for high output devices i.e. space heaters and the like. Get a REAL true 11"WC regulator
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Be aware that you might have a potential problem there. It has been reported that plastic legs on the Q have melted at the attachment point when the Q was left on Hi over an extended period of time. The GrillGrates appear to have less air flow than OEM and may cause higher temps below the grate, and with an adjustable regulator it is very easy to exceed the temp design limits. Just a heads up if you are accustomed to burning off after a cook and forget to shut the grill down.
 
Bottom line adjustable regulators are not at all meant for cooking appliances (well turkey fryers sure) but not things with a "cooktop" or "grill/griddle top". They're meant for appliances using very high volumes of LP at MUCH MUCH higher pressures than a normal cooking appliance. I.E., ready heaters, large deep fryers, what have you. Grills are designed to use TOPS 11"WC. And those adjustable ones cannot hold pressures that low steadily. Because it is not what they're meant to do.
I didn't even want to go at the GrillGrates as they're not a great idea especially used in this manner. Seems the grill has a "problem" and the wise thing to do is fix the problem. I've cooked on many Q2xxx and have never found them to be "heat lacking" in the middle. I've actually found them dead even across the grates. Again here too, only if the proper grates are used. With sufficient mass, the deflectors built in for the burners.
This sounds like a disaster waiting for a place to happen
 
I saw a review today of a New Weber Q and it looked like it had the delete from the factory.
 
I have a Weber 120, Serial number AD0574138, following your instructions from the start of this conversation, I bought your suggested parts using your hyperlinks, with the exception of the hose, now not available.
My situation is that the On-Off Valve, which is screwed into the defective regulator, does not use a 1/8" thread pattern. I took the valve to a couple of nearby hardware stores and was unable to determine what the thread pattern is on the gas examples, since no one nearby has metric gas fittings (metric is my guess).
Do you have any suggestions on where or how I should look for the proper parts for this conversion?
Bruce, I really appreciate the thoroughness of your initial posting.
 
Hello Mike:
I think it very odd that Weber used a different sized thread pattern on that valve. Can you show some photos of the exact parts/connections that you are talking about?
 
Assuming this is a tapered thread, there is BSPT thread that is very similar to our NPT standard but with a 55deg thread angle instead of a 60deg. If all else fails, you might consider taking the valve to a hydraulic repair shop and see if they can match it up with a fitting.

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I cant imagine Weber would bother going through the trouble and expense of making different thread types for the same fittings. Well not "making them but buying them" I've run into BSPT on Japanese stuff like my Kubota. When fitting up my mechanical oil pressure gauge I discovered Japanese engines typically use BSPT on pressure fittings i.e. oil pressure and coolant sensors
 
MikeH-IA said:
I have a Weber 120, Serial number AD0574138, following your instructions from the start of this conversation, I bought your suggested parts using your hyperlinks, with the exception of the hose, now not available.
My situation is that the On-Off Valve, which is screwed into the defective regulator, does not use a 1/8" thread pattern. I took the valve to a couple of nearby hardware stores and was unable to determine what the thread pattern is on the gas examples, since no one nearby has metric gas fittings (metric is my guess).
Do you have any suggestions on where or how I should look for the proper parts for this conversion?
Bruce, I really appreciate the thoroughness of your initial posting.
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Mike: If you can't figure it out, let me know. I probably have a Q laying around that I can swipe a valve off of.
 
I had to put the unit back together so dinner could be cooked yesterday with the 1 lb. tank, but the products I bought are identical to these two images in the posting. Again, my problem is I am unable to attach the "Anderson Metals - 54048-0602 Brass Tube Fitting, Half-Union, 3/8" Flare X 1/8" Male Pipe" which was listed in your original posting, to the Gas Valve (see photo Gas Valve) The threads don't match. The new Fitting did fit the examples to prove it was1/8" threads at the Hardware Store. The problem for me is the gas valve (see photo Gas Valve) will not attach because it is not 1/8", it will not screw into the samples that the Hardware Store uses to verify thread count. This problem is the same problem That you always get when attempting to attach US threads to Metric threads.
 

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